[Duma]

7C in the forest.

M, T, W, T, F: nothing.
S: drove to Tintagel to check out superbloc, 2 & 1/2 hrs including Kids (7B+), and flash of Purple Haze (7A). Good as I haven't been out for ages, and felt suprisingly not feeble. Bad as my knee is definitely not any better, despite all the time off.

[Davo]

Monday: Rested.

Tuesday: Still fairly trashed from weekend, so fingerboard session. Weighted with 5.5kgs.

Wednesday: The Cave. Tried a few things but no real progress on anything. So did Rock Atrocity 3 times, did a new problem Clever Cleaver, then finished with Left Wall low twice.

Thursday: Wall. Crap session, intended to do an endurance session but got there late and was busy. So did a lot of problems and half worked out a circuit on board.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Kilnsey, tried Grooved Arete again. Much better session and managed a couple of good links.

Sunday: Kilnsey, wrecked from Saturday but tried Grooved Arete again. Not great conditions but reworked middle section which I find particularly hard and got a slightly better sequence.

Good week. For the first time since I began doing routes this year I genuinely enjoyed it and didn't just grit my teeth trying to get through the pain. Pleased with progress on Grooved Arete and think it should happen reasonably soon (famous last words!).

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad:
Peak: Flying Buttress Direct HVS, L'horla E1, Qietus E2
Wales: Cemetry Gates E1, Left wall E2, Comes the Dervish E3
Ireland: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Pump up the valium, lighweight lewis denvers both E3 (All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Jolly Roger E3, GBH E3 (Fairhead), Other Fish E4 6b (Culdaff, Headpoint, dont ask), Gallows pole E2, Lucy E2, Siren E3 (Burren)
Boulder Chubbs Patterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a Fairhead
sport onsight 7a (minimum) . Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

LTG's:
Trad:
Profit of Doom E4,Right Wall E5, London Wall E5, Rusty Halo E4, Wall of Fossils E4, Strapodictimy E5, Flesh E5, Operation mindcrime E5, Wall of Pray E5, Gaia E8 (Headpoint - some chance but I'll put it down)
Sport: Redpoint 8a, Onsight 7b+. Je suis un legend 7a+ Verdon. Mirage 7c+ Ceuse.
Boulder: 7b+, Midnight lightning. Biceps mou
Big Wall: Climb the Nose on El Cap.

Other: run sub 40 min 10 k, sub 20min 5 k, sub 90 min half marathon. 2 one arm pullups.

Mon  Rest.
Tue   Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Wed  Ran 40 min approx.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering and working on my power endurance project. Maybe route grade f7a+/b. Really close will
get it in next few sessions.
Fri     Rest.
Sat   Fairhead Bouldering. Did a few laps on a 5c and the 6C extension to warm up. Messed around with a few elimates are font 6a. Did one of my STGs Chubbs Patterson 7a (YYFY ). But was too trashed to tick an even bigger goal off mine Carbide 7a falling off the last move a few time(NNFN  ). I'm reliant on a few spotters for this one but feel like I'll get it if i'm fresh and the conditions are good. 
Sun   Running 45 min.

Good week. Didn't run as much and was feeling tired in the wall during the week but managed maybe my best ever bouldering day which came as a surprise because I've mainly been running and power endurance training because of an injured finger. Gutted not to ave done carbide whilsd there were spotters and mats but will hopefully get another chance soon to tick this brilliant problem. Aim to do my power endurance project at the wall this week.

[k2ted]

STG - get better, stronger, fitter, slimmer....
LTG - Know when I'm beat n shouldnt train/ climb. Patience!

mon - rest
tues - craig-y-longridge. Traversing & easy stuff
weds - rest
thurs - craig-y-longridge
fri - rest
sat - stanage with Charlotte. few easy trad leads but way too busy.
sun - rest

Aim to step it up this week as a2 ring pinkie is starting to feel better after fookin up in mid december.

[Falling Down]

STG’s – Get proper body fit for Surfing trip to Sumatra in 10 days time.
MTG’s – Redpoint 7c (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall)
LTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M – Lunchtime run, pressups later.
T – AM: 45mins interval swimming. PM 45 minute run followed by overall body PE in 43:13
F – 45 minute cycle, 12 miles, 1000ft
S – Stretching

Hard week at work this week. Psyched to get through the PE session on Tuesday.

Goals this week: 2 x swimming; 2 x overall PE sessions; 2 x run.

[chillax]

STG: onsight Fair Head E3, one armers on each arm, not come last in the bouldering comp in Belfast in a couple of weeks, project boulder problem
MTG: don't be a weak lazy shit, projects in Dalkey and Wicklow, find and do something new and at my limit at Fair Head (shouldn't be hard considering the size of the place and the untapped potential)
LTG: E7

Mon: nothing
Tues: gave blood, went drinking, bleurgh
Wed: pullups and pushups
Thurs: good fingerboard session
Fri: not a tap
Sat: Bouldering at the head (dunno what you're on about rodders, that elimate was about 4+  ). Didn't really do anything, but made some progress on a 2 move project. Second move is well knacky, might go soon, might never go. Lots of pullups and pushups afterwards.
Sun: nothing. intended to do a core session but was strangely knackered.

Decent bouldering session on saturday despite not doing anything. Route season fast approaching though, looking forward to getting into the swing of Fair Head again. I'm going to be living 25 minutes away from the place until next september doing a masters so I going to try my damndest to make it productive. Decided to try the bouldering comp in belfast in a couple of weeks  as a bit of motivation to train. Only ambition is to not come last! Its being set by the one and only PercyB I belive, so I expect weirdness....

[cmerch]

Goals: Climb 8a and boulder v8
Mon: 4 mile run and 25 minutes on the Moon fingerboard.
Tues: 20 minutes on campus board
Wed: Run for 25 minutes
Thurs: Sand Rock, work on removing graffitti in am, 3 routes in pm. Onsight 2 6b's then take 2 goes to get a 7a. Pumpy and powerful.
Fri: Yellow Bluff, climb 4 routes, all about 6a-b.
Sat: 25 minute run, do a few 1 minute intervals.
Sun: Nothing
This week OK, the 7a was not that hard, just pumpy. Got pumped, got scared, had to hang. 2nd go wasn't that hard, no real crux.

[chris05]

M: Rest after good weekend of climbing
T: Skived off work for the day to go bouldering at cratcliffe - good volume session
W: Rest
T: Would like to call it rest but more like laziness
F: See above + pub 
S: 10 mile walk around edale + pub
S: rest? + pub

The worst week I have had in months for motivation, so decided to make it a rest week (?). Had a good day at cratcliffe but skin was ruined for the rest of the week! At least this week cant be any worse (can it?)..

On a brighter note might head to the Lleyn next weekend, can anyone recommend a campsite, ideally as close to the bouldering and surfing as possible?

[duncan]

STG: E3 / El Cap.
LTG: E5

M: The Arch. ARCing.
T: Nothing
W: Pull-ups, shoulder stability stuff, 10km walk
T: Shoulder stability stuff
F: Portland routes. Onsighting F6b.  Tweaked good shoulder.
S: Jumped up and down for 2 hours to LCD Soundsystem (very good).
S: Watched London Marathon. 

Some slow progress.  Still tip-toeing along the line between rehabilitation and training.  3 and a bit weeks to go, fitness still mediocre.

[nik at work]

8b, 8B, (E8)

STG: Sport 8 by the end of the month

M - Nothing
T - Malham for a short session. First time on Raindogs. Will try redpoint next visit.
W - Nothing
T - Nothing, weird finger injury develops. Very painful on top of finger but doesn't seem to affect climbing much in that it is painful whether I'm climbing or not. Weird.
F - Kilnsey. Finger still sore but doesn't seem to have huge negative affect on climbing. Make good links on a project then flail like an arse on a route 8 grades easier, what a cock.
S - Nothing
S - Nothing,finger starts to feel less painful.

Not a classic week, busy and painful with not much climbing and no board sessions. This week I'm going to try and nail the sport, after all the month ends on Friday...

[Fiend]

Goals:
Tick small numbers.

This week:
Mon - n/a / gentle weights and stretching
Tue - 2 okay trad leads, backed off bigger challenge, okay but a bit jaded.
Wed - 3 short sharp sport climbs, had to fight a bit which was good. Finger and shoulder fine.
Thu - n/a
Fri - n/a
Sat - 8 interesting steady sport climbs, nothing too hard but felt good. Finger very slightly tweaky.
Sun - 3 dismal trad failures, too steep, too scared, too slow with gear, much to learn.

Comments:
Variable week. Got a bit jaded with trad so mixed it up with sport, that was good. Tried to tackle steeper stuff as have got into the habit of trad slabs recently which will make me WEAK. Sunday showed just how bad I've got on steep ground, and how scared I am of falling and committing. So I need to tackle this with more vigour. Some wall sessions and falling practice next week.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell, Clyde, Halfway House (Parisellas), NES part 1, Octopussy, Cote du Seshuan (Magic Wood)

Mon: Sweet FA
Tue: Cave, fell off 2 moves from end of Broken Heart due to attempting a shakeout and chalk at break (which just made me twice as pumped in both arms!). Got back on In Hell and had a redpoint to last drilled pocket but had to let go as I was dragging the flake on 2 fingers after catching it badly and it hurt a lot! Really need to get on this more than once every month
Wed: Rest
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Indoor volume session and worked a hardish problem
Sat: Rest then BBQ, 4 burgers, 6 kebabs, 2 sausages, 1 cake, 2 litres Leffe blonde 
Sun: Indoor volume session, got shut down still on RH step wall red so made up a new crimpy project

After getting back from the cave on Tues I decided I should really work on some P.E. circuits asap so I can arrive at the cave in better shape and avoid powering out a couple moves from the end over and over. When I was at the wall however I was pushed for time due to working so ended up just doing a volume session both times. Probably getting weaker.

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm not posting on this bloody thread any more because it's jinxed me. Every time I post on here I seem to get ill or something else happens to prevent me from climbing or training. So it can piss off.

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A+
Weight 13st 9lbs (+3lbs)

M: Foundry afternoon session. Lots of new problems and lots of flash pump.
T: 4 mile run. Press ups and crunches.
W: 4 mile run. Press ups and crunches.
T: Burbage South boulders bimble.
F: Hep B jab followed by a run. Hit the wall after about 3 miles and walk home tired and hungry. Lesson learnt. No exercise after a jab.
S: Rubicon morning session. Struggle on anything in the 6s and early 7s. Need more confidence on polished footholds and to pull harder. Bigger Tail and Kudos are the projects.
S: Sore back and shoulder. Rest.

Started the running again but found motivation for distance hard. Back seems to be suffering so will book a sports massage to help sort it out. This week I'll be walking rather than running.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Dead hanging session, plus one arm work on Rock rings.
T: Bouldered at Craig y Longridge. Good session, nothing special ticked but made good progress on a few harder problems.
W: Routes at Castleberg. Easy session doing some onsighting.
T: Hangs and one arm work on rock rings/fingerboard.
F: Rest day.
S: Attermire. Hadn't climbed up here since last spring which is bad since its only a 15 minute walk from my house... Anyway, I spied a V5 (sorry, 6C+) up there in Northern Limestone and was intrigued to give it a go. Turned out to be quite a good slabby problem with a slightly scary final move. Did it in 5 or 6 goes and then soloed a few E1's, one of which I couldn't get off the ground on this time last year. It must be the hardest E1 in the world but it is now done, hurrah!! Fantastic day in the sunshine.
S: Went to meet my wife and some inexperienced friends at the Roaches. Soloed some V Diffs etc, while helping people with their climbing. Pleaseant, low stress day but probably not really helping achieve my goals!

[nai]

STG - Rest and recover after winter's activities, renew enthusiasm, enjoy Font in 2 weeks time
MTG - get out with some string whenever possible this summer, do E3 again;  when that's not possible train/boulder so I stay strong for next winter.
LTGs - rip up the grit next winter.

M  - thought I should do something as it's been three days now, started doing pullups before deciding I couldn't be arsed.  Had a guilt trip and tried again before admiting that I couldn't, in-fact, be arsed.
T  - an hour at Rubicon, I've had a few goes working out Bigger Splash every time I've been there. Got it eventually but wished I hadn't bothered the moment I held that crimp.  Without doubt the sharpest, most painful hold I've ever had the mispleasure of.  Never again.
W - had the afternoon off work but just couldn't be arsed.  Drank coffee, did admin.  Fingertip still numb from Tue
T - on a training course in Cheshire, too much coffee and too many biscuits.  Luckily it finishes early and I opt to head home x-country, what a gorgeous drive and as I was passing Newstones thought it rude not to pop in for an hour.  Did 10 lovely problems first go or very quickly, just keeping moving, could have stayed all night, most enjoyable climbing I'd done for ages.  Tip still numb.
F - still numb
S -showed tlr round Staffs bloddering, trying to stay out of the sun.   Did a long warm-up circuit at Newstones, including Charlies for the first time - yyfy.  Then off to Gib where we tried Stall without success again, closer though.  Lastly headed to Ramshaw where I finally got Tierdrop with some foot beta and inspiration from some other guys and girls there - YYFY. Pretty glad I'd not done it when I've been trying it alone during my lunchtimes, I shat myself at the top and might have been stuck for ages had someone not been there with way-down beta.
S - Daughter's 3rd birthday.  Ate cake and general lardiness.
 
A good week climbing wise, three longish-term nemeses addressed, plenty more of them to go at though...  Diet wise everything's gone to pot although drinking wine and eating cakes is training of a kind for Font.

[lagerstarfish]

goal: Font 7c

weight: 14st 11lb
fat: 30%

Mon to Fr - Joints hurt. Had the opportunity to climb, but not the motivation. Waited for motivation and physical well being. Didn't happen. Few pullups and pressups every day.
Sat - cycled up and down hills in Peak District.
Sun - ate lots and drank moderately

[Fiend]

I'm not posting on this bloody thread any more because it's jinxed me. Every time I post on here I seem to get ill or something else happens to prevent me from climbing or training. So it can piss off.

Your butt is going to be red raw after Shark's finished with his beating stick 

[andybfreeman]

Goals - STG lose a couple of kilos of fat pre-Spain, work PE and get mileage outdoors. MTG climb Just Revenge @ Anstey's this year and climb 7B in the of rest when i get back in December

M - Rest
T - Gym, first PT session so assessment with some strength work and z bit of cardio. according to their scales my body fat is 13.3% which is higher than my home scales but kind of good as it means I should be able to knock a couple of kilos off without too much hardship!
W - short session at TCA
Th - Gym in the morning. 5 x 5 decline bench press @ 60kg, 5 x 5 pull ups + 20kg, 5 x 5 stnading shoulder press @ 40k, 3 x 1 min plank with hands on resting on kettle ball and 3 x 30 sec sprint on rowing machine
F - rest
S - Anstey's. Worked the moves on Just revenge. found a sequence that worked for the crux! did all moves except last bit of the slab. Tried to flash Empire but failed on crux as all power spent.
Su - bouldering at portland (thanks Iain!). did terminator, both variants of pinky power and worked moved on liquid sun (failed to link but it'll go next time!)

Weight - average up to 68.2kg  but down to 67.1 this morning (lowest since started weighing in Feb  )

[Stubbs]

Aims:
In shape for swizz in July
Find a Lime project worthy of attention
Be Suffolk's best!

M: 50 pull ups 70 pressups and 70 situps over the course of the day
T: 50 Pull ups
W: Beastmaker Half crimps, 3 finger dragging and slopers. Felt heavy but persevered. Some core stuff. Weights inc clean and press (inspired by FD) which wrecked me!
T: Castle post work sesh. felt a bit tired and skin was a bit screwed but climbed OK. Grades all over the shop. Projected and failed on a 'V4' but did a few 'V7's'.  Some well set problems though, and not as horrendous as I thought Thursday night in London may be.  Some friendly strong locals too.
F: Nowt
S: Short sesh bouldering at The Cuttings, Portland. Did Lightning Strike (which is excellent) and Cavity Search (which involves quite a big pull of a mono in a roof, a first for me) and a few other things. Felt a bit rusty on the rock but didn't climb too badly for the first time at a new venue.  Cider festival in the evening...
S: Nice walk with a mild hangover.

[JohnM]

STG: Fr8a+, E6 os
MTG to LTG: Font 8a+, Fr8b, E7 os
Bouldering tick list: In Heaven, Sabotage
Route tick list: Grooved arete, Urgent Action, Supercool, Infinite Gravity, Cider Soak, Bleed in Hell, Caution, Requiem................

M:Short finger board session and PE circuits on the board.
T: Short finger board session, PE circuits on the board, 200 pull ups with various reps, added weight and grips etc.
W: Rest
T: Kilnsey. Felt Terrible on usual 6c warm up, tried Cold Steal (sacked it cause of filth), did Grooved Arete in two halves and failed on usual warm downs.
F: Rest
S: Kilnsey. More links on Grooved Arete.  Faired better on usual warm downs.
S: Kilnsey.  Warm up on Sticky Wicket in terrible conditions so ended up redpointing it.  Link Grooved Arete from undercuts to top.  Just need to add the 5 starting moves.

Pretty good week and really excited about Kilnsey again.  My body finally started responding to doing routes again and climbed my best on Sunday afernoon despite being really tired.  Hopefully Grooved Arete will go soon when i'm fresh and the pocket isn't wet! 



   

[petejh]

Goal:  VIII, F8a, E8 & f8a in 2010.
At: IX, F7a+, E3, f7b.

Goals for April: Left Wall Traverse, Clever Beaver, Axle Attack, Night Glue (all done),
Foulish Ghoulish 7b+, any 2 of Colussus, Centrefold, Memory Lane, Quasar, Stroll On, Foil, E3.

Good 'till last week. Worked 12 hour days x 5 so not much climbing got done. Rebolted The Cutaway, 2 short sessions in the cave and played on a very greasy Plumbline Traverse.

[Three Nine]

Goals:

STG (may): Just Revenge, onsight 7bs again
MTG (Aug-Dec in Europe): Onsight 7cs, 8as in different styles, 7C
LTG (Spring 2011): Tuppence

M Rest
T 30min run, press-ups, stretching
W Rest
T 30min run, press-ups, stretching
F Rest
S Anstey's - did ok on JR i guess, but find it dismayingly tricky
S Torbryan - tired(!) and got ass kicked on Threadbare, man its ace though

Weight 10st1

Big rest week to dig myself out of this hole. I think its probably worked, getting back on a bit of power work this week.

[Charles]

Can't really remember this week but I think it went like this...

Monday - Matrix. I was pants.
Tuesday - nothing.
Wednesday - Matrix. I was pants.
Thursday - Raven Tor. Fell off the same move on Powerhumps around ten times. Feel stronger on it than I ever did last year but still can't do it. World's hardest 7b+? I'd say so.
Friday - nothing.
Saturday - nothing.
Sunday - nothing.

[tomtom]

A quiet week... LTG 7B+

Mon: nada
Tuesday: A load of press ups and crunches
Wed: Beer & Football depression
Thurs: Early trip to Almscliff. First session at Underhand - made some fairly good progress. Finished with a few 7A rpts until core packed up
Fri: Ached
Sat: Early morning trip to Almscliff. Second session at Underhand - felt weaker but made slight progress (slapped at next hold). Body tension not really working... Watch Hull get relegated afterwards... 
Sun: Felt trashed. Drank lots of beer....