[uptown]

I'm writing this one up just for Dense. An acquired taste I know.
Sit-start on the little grassy block at the righthandside of the roof (underneath Stanton warriors), then shuffle leftwards through two cruxes (one powerful, one technical) to finish at the start of Brutal arete (ie. stood up in balance with high crimp and high layaway) - I hope to finish up Brutal arete sometime (next season), which will create a superb 8a+(?) link, with arguably some of the best rock and moves on Peak grit. The first crux section can stay dry in the rain and is a belting hard 7c by itself, finishing in no mans land on the obvious hold to horror, in the centre of the bulging face. A knee bar on the back of your hand might prove necessary at the crux. A breeze varying from N-E to E helps with conditions. Enjoy.

[dave]

You been taking writing lessons from Si O'Conor?

[uptown]

You been taking writing lessons from Si O'Conor?

point taken gf. should ov just sed r-l trav on brootal bloc. easy now.

[brad]

i think i may have seen you on this..in the rain about a month ago, i was below cleaning a boulder 

[uptown]

i think i may have seen you on this..in the rain about a month ago, i was below cleaning a boulder 

Aha, yes - I turned up just as it started to rain. The first half was ok, but the second half was getting wet, so I baled to the snore for the evening instead.

[a dense loner]

u need to get your priorities right uptown, coffee at the works?

[brad]

il take a look at it soon, good effort anyway

[uptown]

Have you checked out Peak tor Brad? That's your neck of the woods.
Dense - you should know me by now.

[Johnny Brown]

I've been to Peak Tor. Nothing there. I am convinced one of these woods must hide some rock, but I haven't found any worth the walk yet.

[Fiend]

How about a 3m roof, extending for oooh at least 10m, 4m above a flat leafy landing, with potential for some gaskins-esque power lines and a few easier things, bring your burl AND your foot faggotry.

It's out there, you know it is....

[brad]

i did check peak tor and there is a quarried gritstone cave but there is jugs everywhere it wouldnt work for bouldering 

[uptown]

Having just watched the Leah vid, I'll take 8a for this until someone paths it or finds an easier sequence. This is hard 7c into 7b+. There's a potentially very hard Brads arete here too Brad. Check it out.

[brad]

another brads arete, i certainly will check it out.. but where? iv been there recently (before i saw you) and saw a sharp arete ss with moss on top right and up from your problem...is it that one? mind you it dosent look that hard.

[Paul B]

Having just watched the Leah vid, I'll take 8a for this until someone paths it or finds an easier sequence. This is hard 7c into 7b+. There's a potentially very hard Brads arete here too Brad. Check it out.

sorry but the time you start basing the grades of a UK problem on a video of something in Spain is a very dark day indeed. I don't want to come across as an achievement basher/serial downgrader but Albarracin isn't exactly a great platform to base any grades on. The numbers look the same, thats where the similarity stops. The guidebook is recognized by locals as being way off and inconsistent as hell.
Can't you relate it to something closer to home, Is it like Jerry's trav (stanage) hard? or Bens Trav (stanage) hard? Or is it Inertia Reel hard?
Maybe its magic wood 8c 

[nik at work]

I'm pretty sure that Uptown has more than enough experience to provide a grade for a problem at this level. Although I imagine you're right, he probably put all that experience to one side and based his grading on a short video clip of someone else climbing a problem he's never seen in the flesh let alone tried. That seems like the only sensible thing to do.

Or maybe it was just a flippant remark?

Hmmm....

[Paul B]

dangle a carrot and I will bite.

[nik at work]

 

Me too it would seem.

[uptown]

Shucks boys, I'm getting some debate about one of my new probs. I just thought it's worth more than a lesson in poor prose. The grade came from trying it on and off for more than a decade. I first saw brutal with the Boy well before Percy and OTE, and this traverse had always inspired through the unique sequence (knee on backhand is the only way to do the crux for me.)
Cheers for sticking up for a fellow old-timer Nik - the reality Paul is that just like you I don't really understand grades, and watching that vid made me think I'd undersold it. My slash grade was already pruned to 7c+ by Peakbouldering, and we all know folk won't bother to repeat stuff that's short of the magic number. Now I'm not a strong climber but I've been on this line enough to know it's tough - The Cockney sparra tried it with me once and just grinned at my 'guess' of 7b+ (late 1990s).
It felt a touch easier than dialectics and exorcist if that helps.
I've not done Jerrys, Bens or Inertia, nor been to mw. Sorry.

[a dense loner]

I'm pretty sure that Uptown has more than enough experience to provide a grade for a problem at this level

if this is the case nik why have 4 of my mates been to mytholm steeps n thought that your 2 7c problems were both 7a? this is after all of them flashing both.
grades eh!

[r-man]

My slash grade was already pruned to 7c+ by Peakbouldering, and we all know folk won't bother to repeat stuff that's short of the magic number.

If you log in and register your ascent, you can choose 7c+, hard 7c+, soft 8a or 8a (or anything else). The site adjusts grades according to consensus. Given that you are the only ascentionist, if you vote 8a, the grade will change to 8a. Go big, you know you want to...

[a dense loner]

don't go big uptown, go sideways

[nik at work]

What has my grading of problems got to do with Andy's ability to grade his problem?

As to the answer to your question I can think of a few possible explanations:
1) They were dirty when I first did them and have cleaned up significantly, I'd still say they are more 7A+ than 7A having gone back and repeated then, but that's splitting hairs.
2) You and all your friends are hero's and beasts, me and all my friends are shit and weak.
3) I just got it wrong
You take your pick, I don't much care.

I guess the advantage of only ever training is you never have to offer a grade for anything, just bitch and moan at other peoples attempts. How cool are you...

As you say, grades eh!

[GCW]

me and all my friends are shit and weak.

I hope you're not including me in that 

[GCW]

if this is the case nik why have 4 of my mates been to mytholm steeps n thought that your 2 7c problems were both 7a? this is after all of them flashing both.
grades eh!

I have to agree with this, a Yorkshire uber wad also went along and tried Nik's 8a+ and said it may be 8a (although he didn't do it and felt it would be harder if you are short).

Pretty damning evidence I think   

[nik at work]

I've been rumbled, a rampant overgrader and no mistake...