[account_inactive]

Stick a knee in and you can clip

[SA Chris]

I say we kidnap him, put him in a sack, then throw him off Millers Dale viaduct until he stops squealing.

Climber's version of an intervention.

[Ru]

Stick a knee in and you can clip

Or, don't stick a knee in and get to the belay.

[account_inactive]

I'm not the one who fears the fall 

[Johnny Brown]

Why are you clipping then?

[account_inactive]

I don't at the top of the groove, just pointing out that it's possible.  I think Ryan was skipping the one at the bottom of the groove and then clipping the one at the top off the kneebar(?)

[dobbin]

why is you all hidin behind false names innit? i bet youse wouldnt be so tough in the real world (robot legs or no), you is just bitter innit. Me and mates, we think some of you is dicks

 

[Bonjoy]

As I was ranting at you the other day - it seems to me there are two types of people who object to the kneebar on Mecca. People who have done the route already without (or invested years in trying it one particular way in the case of Keith) and people who’s legs are too short to fit in it. Don’t get suckered into making your own life hard to protect the value of other people’s effort investments. In hindsight I regret being fooled into this nonesense. 

[Doylo]

I thought the old skoolers were against it because there used to be an old bolt stopping you getting it in. Would be stupid not to use it now though

[dobbin]

I certainly need to investigate it I think. Plus, from speaking to Jon t'other day - the bolt scar which is oft cited as a reason to invalidate the kneebar sequence was there when it was first done, and when first climbed, the horn at the base of the groove was a massive jug, so its already harder than it was when it was first done.

Thing is that I actually quite like it without the kneebars. Going to investigate some sort of hybrid putting the top bar in version. Possibly tonight.

Anyway, I demand my image is removed from these pages! ;-)

[account_inactive]

If I was you I'd put in the first one and then not the second as you already have a sequence coming out of the groove on the two pockets (who saw you!) As we said the other day, how can you argue about that scar when the whole start is cemented/bolted in place and the majority of holds are sika'd in place- first crimp,gaston bottom of groove etc etc.  Interesting to hear that the bolt scar was always there. Back around trying Brad Pit with the jump method people!

[Bonjoy]

I’m not sure about that bolt scar. I think it is from an old aid bolt. It’s certainly been like that as long as I remember (so at least ten years unless my memory is wrong). The main point I was making is that the route has changed a fair bit since the FA and mostly in ways which make it harder. As you say, the hold at the base of the groove used to be a decent shake out jug, or so I’m told!
Maybe someone can dig out some really old pic of the route to see if this bolt was there or not.

[Jaspersharpe]

Saying that the use of kneebars is an invalid sequence sounds like the height of stupidity to me. It's not as if it involves traversing off for a rest or to miss out a hard move or something...... and this is a route after all. Is it still 8b+ whichever way you do it? Yes, so where's the problem?

[account_inactive]

Saying that the use of kneebars is an invalid sequence sounds like the height of stupidity to me. It's not as if it involves traversing off for a rest or to miss out a hard move or something...... and this is a route after all. Is it still 8b+ whichever way you do it? Yes, so where's the problem?

Exactly

[account_inactive]

Ted said this on his scorecard:

No kneebar used with foot in old crumbled bolthole at base of groove, which only appeared early 2000's during rebolting when old bolts stripped (see photos in Power of Climbing of old ringbolt). IMO this should be filled in so you are forced to climb groove on pure PE like on FA. Otherwise prob not 8b+

Can't seem to find my copy of POC at the moment.  Would this make all the ascents of the extensions invalid with a knee bar?  Either way the second kneebar is better that the first and that foot hold has always been there.

[Bonjoy]

Ted said this on his scorecard:

No kneebar used with foot in old crumbled bolthole at base of groove, which only appeared early 2000's during rebolting when old bolts stripped (see photos in Power of Climbing of old ringbolt). IMO this should be filled in so you are forced to climb groove on pure PE like on FA.

Ok brilliant let's do it! Obviously we'll have to stick a jug in the base of the groove too so it's back to being 'pure PE like on FA' . 

[dobbin]

I believe the climbing works would be happy to donate a massive pink bucket courtesy of holdZ for this application. Of course, there will be an inexplicable slick line right where you want to hold it, but this will be most like the original state

[Ru]

The bolt hole was there when I did it in 2001, but then that was after the ring bolt went.

I don't care how people climb it. I remember Dunning getting an almost no-hands rest then repeatedly falling off whilst getting out of it. I think that was the second kneebar though.

[Jaspersharpe]

While we're at it someone better cement a big foot ledge onto Powerband as apparently there was one until it crumbled relatively recently. But then they'll have to knock it off again as it wasn't there when it was first done.

[Kingy]

Whichever way the groove is done is badass, i don't care anymore about this, I think I was a bit too absorbed with all the intricacies of beta at the time!    All the best with everybody's ascents.

Ted (Kingy)

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Badger bait
11 May 2011, 9:46 am

Several people had mentioned the amount of shit I was getting on the internet. I hadn't seen any of it, and wondered where it was. I thought of all the possible vectors and finally thought to check UKB. And there it was, the motherlode. A steaming pile of Morton Muck. Although most of it is reasonable and makes sense, the blog is not to be taken as literally as it seems it is read (paradoxical statement perhaps). I write what my inner dialog was when I did or tried something, and perhaps lack the external filter that some people apply before putting pen to paper. I'm not going to apply one now, I dont mind the shit - its not proper shit after all, and largely deserved! However, one small point - Paul B's aversion therapy - i dont believe thats the way. The way is small incremental steps.

I should have been to the county this weekend, but the forecast was so bad we pulled the plug. It seems like every weekend when i have a full weekend ticket, the weather craps out. Contemplated all sorts of options, none of them looked very hopeful, and so I ended up at the tor. At 0830, but it was already 14degrees and totally still. The groove was smee. Made it into the base three or four times, but never to clip. Had one go where got the horn, then managed to sort it out, but felt in bulk.

I think all week the weather predictions had been for saturday to be showers in the day and then for sunday to be mega rain, and saturday was true, but the mega rain arrived on the evening, and sunday was mint. Went with Ned and Jon to check out Badger rock, which was good. Nice little spot in a nice location, with some pretty good problems to go at. Badger Badger Badger does look really good. Adam turns up and adds deathy finishes to the easy stuff and thats that.

Yesterday was supposed to be back on Culloden, but we got sidetracked at the tor. Had a quick burn on Mecca, but the previous days 'easy session' on the board slowed me down and it didnt go great. Good tor scene, and loads better conditions than saturday. Overcast with a fresh breeze. Did Powerband again, which makes two ascents in about 20 years. Tried to do it a third time with a view to getting it wired and nearly managed it (falling stepping foot out of egyptian, but with hand on the undercut). This is good, and I am now psyched for stamina band as a training project for Mecca. Its going to teach me to recover. And, you see, the reason I have never given much energy to it because of my inability to do the last move on PB. Now I can do it I am going to do Staminaband.

Source: The Blog of Dob

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Lord of the fishes
20 May 2011, 7:15 am

Si Holmes made a good point - climbers diversifying to surfing like it so much is because every day is a school day, you get to enjoy that rapid progression that so enticed you to climbing in the first place. Each time I go, I learn lessons. I come away ruminating on the latest revelation, and feeling like I have improved. I think its also because it crosses over quite well - strength to weight ratio of a climber should be better than average, and with it the ability to flick to ones feet rather than struggle.

We had a wedding in Croyde (well, in Saunton, but you will have heard of Croyde), so with a fair group of others, we trekked down to North Devon. Rather than camping we had rented a house in the village, and although the weather would have been ok for camping it was pretty cool, and rather breezy, so a house changed it into a pleasant experience rather than a trial. I mentioned that it was windy, and this all but did for the waves. There was scant little swell anyway, and what there was was blown flat by the wind. That said, there was occasionally a rideable wave surface, but it was small and short lived.

Just like you wouldn't go to Stanage in June (unless you were getting up early and going to do snatch), so a good surfer wouldnt even paddle out in conditions like these, but a punter can still learn things. Which is another thing about learning - there's something to be gained from having a go. The water was conspicuously quiet, and there was a definate lack of good people, but of course there were - you won't get Ed Robinson in the water unless its at least 3ft, >10secs and light offshore. I on the other hand, went out every day and did a bit and loved it.

So, what were these lessons then? I got to ride a mate's fish - this was the first revelation. First of all, I could duck it, which meant getting through white water became less daunting. Less daunting = greater willingness to try. Then when up on my feet it was more responsive, allowing more precise control of direction and enhancing my ability to be in the right place to prolong the ride. I managed to both bottom turn and get between sections which I havent yet done on my own mini mal. I also learnt that having a watch is a great thing, as it feels like you have been in the water for hours when its been 30 minutes. And finally, i learnt that when paddling out, you dont need to paddle as hard and fast as you can - save that for catching waves. A more relaxed stroke on the way out allowed greater longevity of session and better recovery for those explosive bursts on the way back.

So, back to sheffield, back to the tor, back on the route. First day on it again since Croyde tomorrow.

Source: The Blog of Dob

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Cullodone
26 May 2011, 8:29 am

Is it a good sign when you arrive somewhere to climb and there's noone there? If its a popular crag - probably not. That said it was a funny time - after the morning shift, but before the normal workers would have been able to get there. The sun wasnt out, and the ground bore signs that it must have rained during the day, but the mega wind had been stifled and the air was warm and muggy. Did some rumbling around on jugs then bailed to Culloden.

Ned hadn't even put his boots on. He was supposed to be saving himself for Revelations. I felt the pressure of execution - the knowledge that you have the physical ability to complete a climb and just the doing between you and success. Rumbled up it putting the clips in, then had a moment on the rope at the jug pocket before the crux. Decided to put the next draw in to have a go on the move with the rope above. Describing it as 'the move' is misleading, as that implies its the hardest move or something, which it isn't. In the final analysis - its a pretty easy move, but its the one which requires commital, and that which I backed off when I last investigated. So, with the draw in place, I do the move - its easy. I take the top draw off and come back to the pocket. Having a moment and telling myself just to go for it I crimp through the crux moves and with slightly more aplomb - launch to the jug - yes! its allright! I dont collapse in a trembling mess of jelly, I do it! awesome! I get lowered off and set the stopwatch to wait.

Some time passes, some general nonsense, some israeli chocolate spread. Now I feel nervous. There's really nothing between me and it - but I have to actually get it right this time. Doing my best to empty my head I set off. It goes well - as I pop to the pocket the holds are all alright and have beans to spare. Crimp, crimp, stab and I am at the high point. I dont allow myself time for consideration, slotting my right hand up into the locky jam thing, and then up come the feet, I try not to allow myself to get bogged down in the minutae of foot position - what I have is good enough, so I make my move, and its like its above the mats at the climbing works and is 6a - I reach out to the jug! get in! Delighted, I lower off and share congratulations with Nedward who is so enthused by my success that he's already squeezing his tootsies into his boots for a go.

With no warm up his first go is a fumble. He swings around a bit, works out what to do and where to hold the holds then comes down for a chill for a minute. As he sits on the ledge surrounded by murder weapons he steels himself for the rat crimps above, then, like a fox pouncing on a chicken he goes - pow pow pow! he's at the crimp, the fox looks to be less pouncing, more having a swat at, but a swat is enough and with the culloden chicken in his jaws he scampers to the jugs with his tail in the air - BOOM! A ned o dob o log tag team ascent!

Back to the tor... Dave Musgrove and Miles are wandering about, and the crag is still reasonably quiet - certainly compared to how it has been. Dave is on one of those routes above Pinches wall, Its not little extra, and it looks hard. Ned gets on Revelations. He does the move to the pinch every time he tries, but never the move after it. Poor Ned, he's getting cross with it but I am so convinced he is going to do it that I wont let him off the rope. In short, he doesnt ever do the go again move off the pinch, but the bit I thought was hard he makes look easy!

Miles is having a look at evolution. Bear in mind that I saw who I think was Markus Bock on it last week, and he was having a hard time - Miles was all over it. The moves which I have seen other people struggle with looked like jugs to him, but the easy roof bit he seemed to find difficult. Suspect theres some trick we didnt know about.

I have a go on Mecca. I feel good before I set off, and I sort of know and expect to get into the groove this time. As my right hand snags the horn and I walk my feet through, I think the difference is one of attitude. IN the past when I have been in this position I wimp out and grab the draw, but buoyed with the success around the corner and some encouragement from below, I walk my feet out and get into the egyptian. I match and actually shake for a minute before taking a hand off to clip. Whilst it doesnt feel easy, I do it and go back into the semi rest egyptian. I have a shake and look up the groove. Then decide to rest on the rope. But this is still progress.

Into the groove from the deck is a gateway link. The climbing changes at that point from burl to technical, and the groove offers some respite, whether from a kneebar or an arse bar which ever way you do it. I did have a little furtle at the knee bar last night - blimey, the first ones not great is it!

Source: The Blog of Dob

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self replicating media node
16 June 2011, 9:23 am

Blah blah blah, some links on Mecca, blah, drone, fear of falling blah. Boring isnt it? well, yeah - it is, but thankfully that's not all I have to say. Almost all, but not quite. In the intervening days and hours it has gotten hotter, stiller and less suitable for boning cheesy grips which attract the full glare of the sun, so whilst I have been back on Mecca, I have ploughed new furrows and actually writing with tales (partially) of success.

Those of you who are fortunate enough to know me will know I am shameless in my persuit of media domination, and so when I got to climb with Nick "berlusconi" Brown, the chance of cro-barring my way into the Outcrop films forthcoming production was too pungent an opportunity to ignore. Nick was standoffish, even cool at first, but slowly, slyly, I weaseled my way into the gusset of his affections, and began planting seed(s). It was Ned's fault. He went off to pull on plastic grifters, so I had to widen the net in my quest for sport climbing satisfaction. We went to the Tor, it was boiling. We looked at Sean's - wet. The dale beckoned its gnarled finger...

When Ned, Ed and I went and investigated the nook last year, I was offended by how crap it looked, so I had low expectations. We went round to the Cornice to attempt to find someone with beta, and we found Ethan. We wandered across and put in the clips from the tree. We wasted as much time as we could but there was no sign of the beanie hatted beta machine, so I sacrificed Nick's chances of the flash and sent him up to work it out. He did well, and actually made me thing it was doable, but he didn't do. I squandered more time, still no Ethan, so up I go - "Come On!" I thought, "Dylan's flashed this! it must be piss!" but my attempt ends where Nick's did, hanging off a jug in space with no means of climbing beyond it. I refine the sequence and as I lower off, a beanie bobs into view. We heed some of his advice, dispense with other bits of it and Nick goes again. He flumps off and after a quick confirmation of my master sequence, lowers off. I go again, and its well easy. I get to the top amazed that anyone could think it 8a. Lower off. Nick does it. We go home, my hayfever goes nuts.

Encouraged by the new, easier approach from Millers Dale and the tunnels, I find myself back there a couple of days later, only this time its all about the Cornice, and the route Nemesis. There are punters (Dylan) on the warm ups, and thus I am off the hook (of having to teeter up a dusty vertical wall towards a loose and damp belay). We get stuck in and a couple of times Nick and I climb through the crux and get stuck crossing the bulge which leads to the easier climbing (which is still pumpy). This is good, and a pleasant suprise. Time ticks past and I find myself back there, this time with buck toothed crimp fiend and now camera afficionado Paul Bennett. He pitched it as being him wanting to take some pics, so I wasn't prepared for the media circus which ensued. Paul had brought Stu Littlefair, and both chaps had more stuff than those who were climbing, only their bags were full of camera gear. But, they took some nice pics, and it was worth it because I have never had nice pictures of me climbing, so it was good to have some for once.







Finally (because I have to get some work done), I recieved my copy of the new guide again yesterday - and what a fine thing it is. As you would expect, its beautifully presented and crammed full of exciting new areas and contentious grades (brad pit - 7c!). And, after a year of campaigning - a picture of me! Already, talk at the crag is of who is this handsome new bastard, casually ticking the Peak's best problems and maintaining suave sophistication throughout. Ok, its not. People were talking about seeking out these new areas and going bouldering again - a dirty word until october at least.

Source: The Blog of Dob

[account_inactive]

.......talk was of a fat ginger guy getting burnt off by a punter with robot legs