I say we kidnap him, put him in a sack, then throw him off Millers Dale viaduct until he stops squealing.
Stick a knee in and you can clip
Saying that the use of kneebars is an invalid sequence sounds like the height of stupidity to me. It's not as if it involves traversing off for a rest or to miss out a hard move or something...... and this is a route after all. Is it still 8b+ whichever way you do it? Yes, so where's the problem?
No kneebar used with foot in old crumbled bolthole at base of groove, which only appeared early 2000's during rebolting when old bolts stripped (see photos in Power of Climbing of old ringbolt). IMO this should be filled in so you are forced to climb groove on pure PE like on FA. Otherwise prob not 8b+
Ted said this on his scorecard:QuoteNo kneebar used with foot in old crumbled bolthole at base of groove, which only appeared early 2000's during rebolting when old bolts stripped (see photos in Power of Climbing of old ringbolt). IMO this should be filled in so you are forced to climb groove on pure PE like on FA.
No kneebar used with foot in old crumbled bolthole at base of groove, which only appeared early 2000's during rebolting when old bolts stripped (see photos in Power of Climbing of old ringbolt). IMO this should be filled in so you are forced to climb groove on pure PE like on FA.