[T_B]

On the falling thing, I think the solution is obvious. Just do loads of on-sighting. The climbers I know who are most relaxed and rarely get scared are the ones who have done tons of on-sight mileage. Basically, if you haven't done that by the time you have kids, you're fooked 

[SA Chris]

Go and onsight some crumbling dirty seacliff or mountain horrorshow. After that climbing above a nice secure bolt will seem like a doddle.

[Nibile]

While sipping coffee in the sun, I thought about the solution.
Try Mecca on top rope. Simulate the clips. If you climb relaxed and you do it, or get sensibly close to doing it, just MTFU and do it: it's a mental thing. Practice falls, get a good belayer who won't take when you scream it and do it.
If, on the other hand, although on toprope - simulate the clips - you get massively pumped and you struggle, get some proper training done then get back on it. There's no point in getting scared every time.
That's what coffee and sun do to one's mind.

[Bonjoy]

On the falling thing, I think the solution is obvious. Just do loads of on-sighting. The climbers I know who are most relaxed and rarely get scared are the ones who have done tons of on-sight mileage. Basically, if you haven't done that by the time you have kids, you're fooked 

I do agree, but it could be argued that such people are good at onsighting because they aren't scared of falling, hence they enjoy doing lots of it. Just saying like.

[Zods Beard]

Is this the same guy who the 1st time I met him spanked my arse and told me to get on with it whilst I was failing on Top Cat traverse?

The same guy who campuses topless to retrieve his fingerboard at the Tor whilst I struggle on Basher's problem?

You've an example to set so get on with it or take up ballroom dancing.

[abarro81]

That's what coffee and sun do to one's mind.

Nible - Mecca only involves moving your feet above a bolt on about 5 moves. I don't think he needs to try it on a top rope. it would also be a pain in the ass to try on TR, except the groove bit when you need to work that out.

Also, you should get massively pumped and struggle if it's going to be the hardest route you've done! Otherwise it's not hard for you..

In conclusion, 'Coffee and sun' is clearly some new lingo for hitting the crack pipe.

[shark]

I've had a play on it with a pad. Seemed a solid grade easier.

Sexist pig

[Doylo]

I've had a play on it with a pad. Seemed a solid grade easier.

Sexist pig

Funny how he only mentions this after its been done by a girl 

[tomtom]

This sounds like some sort of introspective mid life crisis Dobbin. Especially following the farcical lime calling scenes earlier in the year

[Paul B]

Not that this is a likely solution but I think steep Euro-cragging can be great for getting used to falling a decent distance.
Once you realise you're not going to hit anything then it does become quite fun.  Also, realise you're falling on a bolt, likely placed by KC, it isn't as if you're sketching above some dodgy old peg.

I've also found that (mainly the last time the Cornice was in good condition) that familiarity with the likely falls helped a lot, in fact I was becoming quite happy to skip bolts even on those relatively short routes once I was aware of likely redpoint failure points (I got a little too comfortable with this when Brian was belaying and skipped the wrong bolts which wasn't very clever, nor safe).

I'm not sure I agree with Stu that you should expect slow progress either, if it's something you've never dedicated any time to (Freemonster Dob?) then I'd imagine progress will be rapid (although I do agree that if you let it lapse you'll regress, I'm always a wuss at the start of the season).

For what it's worth I'm with Bonjoy on this one and until I see a picture of someone smiling doing a double thumbs up or holding a recovery shake in that groove without a knee-in, I remain unconvinced that the kneebar makes no tangible difference. It doesn't make sense  .

[a dense loner]

Fuck that he's not gonna do it, stop blowing smoke up his arse. I also said last year that he shouldn't have the lime calling job since he's as much use as tits on a bull, and for him to say he's good on the board? Jesus wept

[SA Chris]

Since it seems like it's open seaon on Dob (psycho)analyisis here's my 5p.

For starters I don't think I've ever met Dobbin (not to a point where he left a lasting impression anyway) and I have no idea if you are capable of leading the route, but it seems to me you are at cross purposes; on one hand you see doing sport climbing as a bit of shits and giggles and not something you take at all seriously, but on the other hand you are spending a lot of time and energy on one route which you seem to be quite keen to redpoint.

I think you need to decide which way you want to go; sack it off and have fun bouldering or doing easier routes, or change your mindset to "all in" get some lead falling practice in, man up, redpoint the thing and move on.

(Sorry if this seems like stating the fucking obvious). 

[cowboyhat]

Thats it: go all in Dob.

Start by quitting your job and doing IRATA, they only work six months a year.

[Fiend]

I think more angsty Doblog posts and more life-coaching from Dense will sort this one.

P.S. I have done tons of onsighting and am utterly terrified of falling, especially safe ones on steep sport. Doing falling practise via jumping off has definitely helped with this. Stu is right on the money.

[comPiler]

The siege of summer
26 November 2015, 10:44 am

We all like the story of a good siege, where the protagonist succeeds after a battle and gets to make pronouncements about the deeply personal nature of their struggle, of how they overcame adversity and how they are now both richer and wiser as a result. Well not me. I have managed over all these years of climbing to manage not to absorb any wisdom whatsoever. Wisdom is overrated. If you are wise you probably get to the top of everything really quickly - like Ned. And look at how miserable he is.

It's been a long time since we spoke, and much has transpired. I don't think i ever really convincingly went back on Mecca except when Ben Thompson (world's worst belayer, but ripped face cat lover) wanted to try. As is the case with me and other people on that route, they get interested, look good and either do it or cant be bothered and move on, whilst i do ok for a bit but lack commitment to actually finish it. Anyway, another child has happened (three weeks ago today), and i got involved in (which is the siege bit) Grooved arete at Kilnsey.

Years ago when i first had a go on this route, i think i had a couple of sessions trying it and still had moves to do. Specifically the weird move by the third bolt to get to the pocket. I couldn't do it. Well this year I could. I said then that if i managed to get through that bit (and its not hard, its just a bit weird and slightly sketchy) then i would spend an age getting up to the 'jug' at the top and running out of steam, and that is what happened.

As a boulderer, the moves on GA are really steady. No one move you wouldn't comfortably do straight off the couch, but no appreciable rest either. Route climbers slap their way to the jug, but to them it IS a jug, so they get it all back and then complete the only mildly pokey move after it to get to the top. Me on the other hand, i follow a different pattern. First go, putting the drawers in, do it in sections - feel good. Go 2, the most likely go to yield  success, I am over excited because i think i'm gonna do it, over grip everything and go too fast from the jug. Fail. Go 3, the pressure is off, climb really well up to the jug, now over compensate for previous rush, wait too long, realise diminishing returns, panic, try, fail.

In one session this summer, i got to the bloody jug four times! After the jug there are two slightly go-ey moves, which on their own are really steady. James and i went back one last time, when really it was too late in the season and really hard to keep warm, and i think i have found microbeta which should help complete it next summer. Hopefully (if i can remember what it was!).

Anyway, its gritstone season now - something about which i am excited. I love the change of seasons in terms of climbing style. I have many hopes and aspirations for this season of luck based scrittle, and the list of things which need 'mopping up' grows ever longer. By this i mean, these are things i have been on before and should really have done :

Wob - yr5Bens wall - yr 10? Seans arête - yr2Art of white hat wearing  yr 2 or 3Full power yr lotsThe dray, caley yr2Scary canary, caleyDick hymen, alms cliffBack in the ymca  - 9aFlick of the wrist (travs thing at bbg, a bit shit but good lunchtime fodder)spare rib at stanton - kept nearly doing this last year but wimping out being scared. la poo (yes it is poo, but again a good one for lunches)striker directAndy Browns wall, Cratcliffe, me and ned took harry to this after a night on the plonk with J_Fol (britains best bum doctor) and i nearly did it hung over, so should be possible!

Things i would like to do :Exorcist Superset Lay-by arête Red baron roofTo me to youSilk sit Western eyes (elbow permitting) Back Street mime artistMushin Golden eggSolomon sealCareless!!!!!! Ape drape - i know, i know - never done it though.

Source: The Blog of Dob

[SA Chris]

Who??????

[Bonjoy]

Christ! I hope this is a comeback tour. Bring back Tony Musselbrook.

[SA Chris]

Christ! I hope this is a comeback tour.

[saltbeef]

Christ! I hope this is a comeback tour. Bring back Tony Musselbrook.

that guy has an endurance of a seal

[Stu Littlefair]

Welcome back dob-egg.

[dave]

I applaud the resurrection of the Dob Blog empire, but in a week which has seen the not uncontroversial re-angling of the world's most famous board I am worried about the priorities of the author given his silence on this subject to date.

[tomtom]

I'm surprised the bungling Dobbin Facebook lime calling debacle didn't make it to the infamy of a UKB shirt...

Welcome back.

[Monolith]

Please bring your joyous wondermule presence back to the nation's crags Dobbin. It might just tempt me back out too.

[SA Chris]

Now that would be a thing to behold

[fatneck]

Not really.....