[JamieG]

I was trying the little sit-down 6b+ problem, to the right of Ego, on the Fish at Wimberry this Sunday. It is Problem 52 in the new guide, might be called something like fish dish. You can see the holds in the photo of someone climbing Ego in the guide on the opposite page as the description . And needless to say I got pretty stuck on what seems to be to be the last hard move.

I stand up with my left foot in the obvious pocket next to the slopey rib thing (also in said photo at the very bottom ) and right heel hooking the vague rib thing. I can easily reach into the two dishes. From here do i just need to totally gurn and haul my excessive weight skywards or is there a sneaky trick. I couldn't see anymore good footholds for either left or right foot and anything dynamic feels super awkward.

Thanks for any help on this slightly obscure problem. Apologies to anyone who doesn't know what I'm yaking on about.

[a dense loner]

the problem captioned 'ego'  it also looks like i'm going to bite my lower jaw off

seem to recall taking both feet off n jumping right footonto little ledge at waist height n going up right handed. sound feasible? good problem

[JamieG]

Should have known it would be someone on here in the photo. 

To be honest I've looked at holds on Ego a few times and i'm not surprised your using that hidden chin sloper.

I think right foot high seems like good beta, just need to gurn a bit more and hang onto the dishes. It is really nice little problem, much better than it looks. Should probably try it before falling off fish arete repeatedly next time, instead of afterwards.

Cheers for the suggestions. I think a sneaky trick to climb the problem was the wishful thinking. Pull hard is the answer.

[Jim]

did this again on saturday, what a good little problem.
there is a smear half way up that low rib thing, smear you right foot on this once you have the 2 slopey dish things and crank through for the top. simples

[JamieG]

 

Now in my head it sounds so easy. Right foot high - tick. Pull on dishes - tick. Scream of glory - ?

Probably still fail miserably, cheers for the beta though.

[Andy B]

did this again on saturday

What time were you there on Saturday?

[Jim]

In the afternoon, just mincing by the stream boulders, then quick few goes on winsome and the fish to finish off.
Out with the family & Zod and had started to go cool so left before got frost bite as I was only wearing shorts & vest 
I presume you were around the crag with lovejoy etc...

[Andy B]

I presume you were around the crag with lovejoy etc...

We stayed down at the boulders. Played on the Sugarloaf, Shell Shot, The Fish and Miles'. We must have been at Miles' or gone by the time you came up.

[Paul B]

did this again on saturday, what a good little problem.
there is a smear half way up that low rib thing, smear you right foot on this once you have the 2 slopey dish things and crank through for the top. simples

Jim has the beta on this. There's rubber on it so it should be easy to find.

The holds on Ego are grim.

[JamieG]

Cheers for all the beta. Both me and my brother got this done by keeping our right foot low on the rib and left on the obvious foothold below ego. Then reaching into the first dish with left hand and going straight through to the top with our right hand. The top out is a little saucy and i have the grit rash to prove it after a failed attempt.

[a dense loner]

u shouls start working the traverses into it, both really good. one starts both hands on far left of rail n goes right. other starts pretty far right n comes left, got tricky move. will be bit hard at mo but v good 4u to work on

[JamieG]

Yeah next time i go i am keen to try the problem starting on the rail further left. Had a quick bash on Saturday and it feels quite tricky, but i'll see how it goes when i'm not so tired. I didn't realise you could start to the right as well. I'll definitely check it out next time i'm up at Wimberry.