[Pantontino]

Turns out the snapped foothold (which was the small edge just below the undercut) doesn't make that much difference, at least it didn't for us, but then again we are all about 6ft tall. We used a smeary nubbin down and left - a bit harder to set up on but seems to work okay once you're on it.

Shit, that's gonna make it hard.  I thought it was solid 7a+ previously.  However, if you say there's another one it should still be ok for the crossover with the righthand.

I agree about the grade - I would have said 7B with the Alice finish but James didn't agree. Andy did say he thought this was only a bit easier to the stylistically similar Cruella in the Crafnant. A few more ascents and I'm sure it'll all become clear.

[Doylo]

Cruellas quite a hard 7b

[nodder]

Cruellas quite a hard 7b

Indeed some may say its an easy 7b+...

[BenF]

What Chris and Nodder said.  I'd defo say Cruella is a good chunk harder than VN, although obviously I've not been back to it since Simon broke it....

[comPiler]

Freddie Krueger V7/7A+
16 November 2011, 12:00 am

Beddgelert Forest addition

Source: North Wales Bouldering

[BenF]

Since you ask... Mick and I repeated Freddie Welsh back in Spring 2010.  We thought 7a ish and certainly made sure we didn't cheat - started correctly and didn't use any extra holds to the ones you talked about on the first ascent.  We came away joking that you (Simon) simply got a bit stuck into an over complicated sequence and missed the obvious more powerful, slappy method as one does sometimes when wokring out a new line. 

[Pantontino]

Since you ask... Mick and I repeated Freddie Welsh back in Spring 2010.  We thought 7a ish and certainly made sure we didn't cheat - started correctly and didn't use any extra holds to the ones you talked about on the first ascent.  We came away joking that you (Simon) simply got a bit stuck into an over complicated sequence and missed the obvious more powerful, slappy method as one does sometimes when wokring out a new line.

I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?

Anyway, I'm still pleased with it as it's a cool problem and a very useful fast drying alternative if the Boss Cuvier block is damp.

[BenF]

Duff sequence perhaps?

Well we read your description whilst stood in front of the block, thought about the moves then pulled on.  We instantly found that we could cut out half the hand movements you described, so yeah, overcomplicated.

[Doylo]

happens to the best of us mr p

[BenF]

happens to the best of us mr p

and the worst of us mr d.

[nodder]

I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?

You spent years pretty much only doing first ascents anything else are likely to be problems you know well, it destroys the ability to grade.  Thats my excuse anyway...

[Doylo]

I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?

You spent years pretty much only doing first ascents anything else are likely to be problems you know well, it destroys the ability to grade.  Thats my excuse anyway...

or over inflated egos..... 

[Pantontino]

or over inflated egos..... 

Definitely got one of those, how else could I walk tall through the battle of modern life...

Actually, if you get your arse kicked as often as I do it's hard to maintain said ego in any shape at all!

More seriously, I have noticed that I tend to overgrade more often if I'm on my own (like I was with FW). There are several reasons for this:

Competition - I'm likely to try harder if I'm fighting somebody for a first ascent. (I always adopt a strict one on, one off rule. Occasionally it is obvious that one of us has the lead so a tactical pass might be given to save energy for another project line.)

Sequences - duff sequences are more likely to be ditched if you notice how easily your mate does a certain move via a different method.

Two opinions are better than one - the more opinions you have on a grade the more likely it is to be accurate. This particular problem might just not suit you.

Traffic - if you are trying a problem on your own the holds are getting less use and on a new line this can mean that they remain skiddy/scrittley for longer.

Resting - maybe you don't rest long enough between attempts when you are trying a problem on your own?

Spotting/pads - if you are on your own you are likely to be climbing with a greater element of fear because of a lack of pads or an encouraging spotter. It is hard to climb at your absolute limit if you are worried about cracking your skull open.

Ego - it is easy to get carried away with how good/hard/independent a new line is when you are on your own. Your mate is more likely to point out how rubbish/easy/eliminate it really is!

The answer is to climb more with mates - not always possible though. So failing that, knock a grade or two off each lone first ascent.

[comPiler]

Escape from Llanberis V10/7C+
24 November 2011, 12:00 am

Fierce line at Crafnant from Joe Sterling

Source: North Wales Bouldering

[ducko]

Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?

[Doylo]

No.I'll be keen soon ducko.keen for special k and cruella. Nice to see nwb going hyper again. It feels like news items haven't been as frequent this year

[Pantontino]

No.I'll be keen soon ducko.keen for special k and cruella. Nice to see nwb going hyper again. It feels like news items haven't been as frequent this year

That's because Nodder and CJD were locked away in the Mill for 6 months!

There is also some major stuff that has been kept quiet - don't worry all will be revealed shortly...

[ziggytang]

Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?

I second that! Even a little shitty one would be nice.

[comPiler]

Huffy's Gunnage V11/8A
28 November 2011, 12:00 am

New 'locals' link on Jerry's Roof block

Source: North Wales Bouldering

[ianto9]

Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?

I second that! Even a little shitty one would be nice.

Part of the fun finding the problems

[ducko]

i know where the blocks are but knowing what is what and where things start and finish etc is essential, if i did a problem for example you may start one hand hold wrong or something like that and then your accent isnt valid so its handy to know what your climbing.

[Pantontino]

I am working on the 2nd edition of the NW Bouldering guide, but it won't be out until sometime next year.

For now just climb what looks good - most of it is common sense. Specified starting/finishing positions are quite rare; most problems are either standard sitters or standing starts. If not, just imagine you are doing the FA - what would you do to make the best problem?

If you use the search function on NWB.com you can suss out what has and hasn't been done - it's all there, just type in: Crafnant.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/search.asp

[JohnM]

Oooh new bouldering guide!  I better pull my finger out on some projects!

[Pantontino]

Oooh new bouldering guide!  I better pull my finger out on some projects!

There's still one waiting to be done here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=495

7B+/7C anybody?

[comPiler]

December 2011 Boulder of the Month
5 December 2011, 12:00 am

The Great North Stone of Bethal

Source: North Wales Bouldering