Quote from: Pantontino on November 15, 2011, 06:58:23 pmTurns out the snapped foothold (which was the small edge just below the undercut) doesn't make that much difference, at least it didn't for us, but then again we are all about 6ft tall. We used a smeary nubbin down and left - a bit harder to set up on but seems to work okay once you're on it.Shit, that's gonna make it hard. I thought it was solid 7a+ previously. However, if you say there's another one it should still be ok for the crossover with the righthand.
Turns out the snapped foothold (which was the small edge just below the undercut) doesn't make that much difference, at least it didn't for us, but then again we are all about 6ft tall. We used a smeary nubbin down and left - a bit harder to set up on but seems to work okay once you're on it.
Cruellas quite a hard 7b
Since you ask... Mick and I repeated Freddie Welsh back in Spring 2010. We thought 7a ish and certainly made sure we didn't cheat - started correctly and didn't use any extra holds to the ones you talked about on the first ascent. We came away joking that you (Simon) simply got a bit stuck into an over complicated sequence and missed the obvious more powerful, slappy method as one does sometimes when wokring out a new line.
Duff sequence perhaps?
happens to the best of us mr p
I don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?
QuoteI don't know what happened there - admittedly my first two sessions on it were in warm, midgey conditions and the holds were still a quite skiddy, but the day I did it the conditions were mint and it still felt really hard to me. Duff sequence perhaps?You spent years pretty much only doing first ascents anything else are likely to be problems you know well, it destroys the ability to grade. Thats my excuse anyway...
or over inflated egos.....
No.I'll be keen soon ducko.keen for special k and cruella. Nice to see nwb going hyper again. It feels like news items haven't been as frequent this year
Are there any decent topos available for crafnant?
Quote from: ducko on November 25, 2011, 03:42:33 amAre there any decent topos available for crafnant?I second that! Even a little shitty one would be nice.
Oooh new bouldering guide! I better pull my finger out on some projects!