[benpritch]

Ok - i have a problem -  i gave up sport climbing about twenty years ago but have committed to a trip to the frankenjura in May.

The people i am going with are really good at climbing so i would prefer not to make a complete arse of myself.

i want to train my tits off basically.

where i am at - just climbed eight days straight in font and despite not doing anything difficult (for me) i was close to a couple of things right at the end of the trip that were hard for me, so feel i have a fairly good base to do some really hard work.

what would people suggest i do in preparation?

my aim is to try and do some routes in the 8a - 8b sort of region, of a power endurance or bouldery nature.

any ideas?

[account_inactive]

4x4's and 6x8's at the wall for some PE and also some ARC sessions down at the Floundry to get rid of your bouldering style and get used to being on the sharp end

[Paul B]

The great thing about the Frankenjura is how varied it is.

You can pick from doing long routes to boulder problems with bolts (or 'a' bolt at Klagemauer...just like Cragx). I'd just throw in some PE so you can manage a few more moves when you get there. I wouldn't get too hung up about training pockets as hold types vary from place to place as well. Usually I found a convenient pocket to turn everything into a pinch.
There's an old top of the pockets article by Andy Harris that I'm sure you've seen, thats a great starting place for route reccomendations. Andy also added one at Soranger wand to my list that was described as a mini aktion directe, it goes at 7c and is great (nice and short).

I can add some route rec's if you want them but by the sounds of it you already have some in mind?
I'd recommend the 8a that moves leftwards out of wall street however it isn't a short one!

Avoid Backerei Muller and the breweries (conveniently marked in the guide) if you don't want to redpoint anything.

[benpritch]

4x4's and 6x8's at the wall for some PE and also some ARC sessions down at the Floundry to get rid of your bouldering style and get used to being on the sharp end

dylan it is all very well saying this stuff to me but i don't know what you mean. could you translate? thanks for the input.

paul i agree about the frankenjura - i had my favorite sport climbing trip there in about 1990 (ended with a poorly finger though)

 

[account_inactive]

It would be easier to tell you when I see you sweetie

[benpritch]

maybe we should go out climbing or something? be good to catch up.

i already lost a day, damn.

[El Mocho]

I too am off to the Jura with a pair of wads in May, One of whom I used to be as good as but has since lost 17 stone of weight and climbed the hardest 8c in the world in only 4 seconds. So that I don't look like a punter and slow the whole team down I have been training like a bastard for the last few weeks.

Instead of watching the wire every night I now do reps of sit up, press ups and trying to deadhang on the door frame (managed 5 seconds now) even got up at 6.30 this morning for a bike ride...  The big move has been getting Ron to set a bunch of problems on my woodie and I have been working my way through these.

If you want to come round to do specific jura circuits on the board then give me a ring.

[fatdoc]

old fashioned finger pocket finger stress boarding....

with your 25 yr+ experience of climbing and some training on stressing a few finger joints you'll b fine..

It's a great place.

 agree with Paul B.. the short routes will b very up your street.. it's bouldering - with a rope.

Have fun mate!!

[Jim]

I too am off to the Jura with a pair of wads in May, One of whom I used to be as good as but has since lost 17 stone of weight and climbed the hardest 8c in the world in only 4 seconds. So that I don't look like a punter and slow the whole team down I have been training like a bastard for the last few weeks.

Instead of watching the wire every night I now do reps of sit up, press ups and trying to deadhang on the door frame (managed 5 seconds now) even got up at 6.30 this morning for a bike ride...  The big move has been getting Ron to set a bunch of problems on my woodie and I have been working my way through these.

If you want to come round to do specific jura circuits on the board then give me a ring.

Does Ron say Hi? 

4x4's and 6x8's

Dylog used to work in a timber yard. He likes WOOD