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UKB Power Club Week 9 (Mon 5th - Sun 11th) (Read 19826 times)

Charles

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UKB Power Club Week 9 (Mon 5th - Sun 11th)
April 11, 2010, 05:27:49 pm
The fact I'm starting the thread instead of being outside climbing says a lot about how this week has gone!

New goals this week as I completed my short term goal of climbing 7a every day in Font last week.

Short term goal: Improve Power Endurance (Process goal = 3 PE Sessions a Week) > Complete Powerband (By June)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Get fit for Mallorca  (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday: Tried to climb at the Depot but felt shattered still from Font. Still managed to flash a 7a. Got fed up after an hour and  a half and went on an extended drinking session.
Tuesday: Recovered from extended drinking session.
Wednesday: Thought about climbing. Didn't.
Thursday: Work.
Friday: Stripping, washing holds, resetting and testing at The Matrix. Shattered when the time came to test problems and got spanked.
Saturday: Didn't get up til 12. Met parents at pub and had a stunning breakfast of two pints of Golden Pippin and a packet of crisps.
Sunday: Nothing.

I think it's safe to say I peaked in Font. Which is good. But I wanted to capitalise on my form and climb some overdue problems. Instead, any attempt to climb has been an unmitigated failure.

Davo

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Monday: Rest, completely wrecked from the grit on Sunday.

Tuesday: Cave, made some progress on Trigger Cut. Worked The Wire a bit as well. Left arm/shoulder was a bit sore from Trigger Cut but nothing too bad.

Wednesday: Rested but then randomly went to Pex in evening as it was so nice. Remembered that I have no technical ability whatsoever and I can still barely climb english 5c there! Still was nice to be out.

Thursday: Cave: Went to Trwyn with Holger to do some routes but the beast was keen to tick off Pit of Hell before doing some routes. So warmed up and then repeated Rock Atrocity. For the first time ever it felt reasonable. Then puntered the final match on Pit of Hell on my first try of the session. Next go it went down fairly easily. Very pleased to have ended an almighty siege. Of course the beast ticked it next go. LPT: Went downstairs and tried Melonchollie, I promptly split a tip and Holger managed to do most of it in very bad conditions. Then I put the rope up Mussell Beach which was a brilliant climb. The german beast then crushed it with a retro/amnesia flash. Still not tired he lapped Bad Bad Boy a few times! Looks like I have a bit of work to do on my endurance!

Friday: Rest

Sat: Rest

Sunday: Hideous hangover!


tomtom

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STG 7b+ (getting closer!)
LTG 8a (well I'd love to - but I think its a long long way away...)

M: Rest
T: Curbar - Completed Tracking. My first 7b - so a YYFY  :)
W: Rest
T: Slipstones - rpted some good v2-3's, progress on Sulky Little Boys and did Leaning Wall (7a) at the end of the day (a little YYFY)
F: Rest
Sa: A twitchy hour or so at Hobby moor whilst trying to avoid listening to Hull capitulating to Burnley..
Su: 1/2 hour on the Beastmaker just working on pullups/encores

a good week - especially after a week of basically f*ck all.. steady progressions and that 7b+ target is looking do-able. I need to pick me some ones to work at now... thinking Underhand at the cliff, layby arete at slipstones and Deliverance - but thats not really a 7b+ for someone of my lank.. (but hell, I'll take the tick¬!)

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Goals:
Let my fingernails regrow.
Don't climb anything south of the Fort William - Aberdeen latitude.

This week:
Mon - n/a / theraband / stay up entire night & fly to Sicily next morning.
Tue - 5 medium sport climbs, not bad after 30 mins sleep / theraband.
Wed - 5 medium/challenging sport climbs, good training, best F6a+ and F6b+ ever / theraband.
Thu - 7 medium/challenging sport climbs, lots of varied mileage and some good challenges / theraband.
Fri - 4 medium/challenging sport climbs, good / stay up most of night to get back to Glasgow.
Sat - 2 good trad leads, both went easily, had two pints of beer rather than one for the first time in years.
Sun - 2 good trad leads, both challenging, blind, committing and good training / 1 hour walking.

Comments:
RAD AND SYKED.

chillax

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STG: Get my trad balls back
MTG (by next september): Onsight Fair Head E3
LTG: Climb E7. Preferably onsight. Looooooong term goal.

Mon: Diddly squat
Tues: Less than monday.
Wed: Bouldering in wicklow. Did a new 6b (maybe) in Lough Bray. Worked on a couple of 7a's that I think would go pretty easily next time with 2 pads and a spotter (I was on my lonesome and didn't like the landing. Yes, I'm a pussy. See STG)
Thurs: Good wall session in Dublin. Felt slightly stronger than usual indoors. Knackered after.
Fri: Recover
Sat: Some semi-mountain trad at Luggala (I don't really consider it mountain trad if you can see the route from the road). Spent most of the day on a dirty, slightly runout, slightly loose 3 pitch HVS. Bloody brilliant. Step towards achieving STG. Lots of stuff to do at Luggala, I'll be going back.
Sun: Little bit of climbing on the stone cladding on the back wall of my garden (around 10 feet high). Pinged off a hold and battered my knuckles. Well done you spanner.

Good week all in all. Nice variety. The end of the taught part of my course is coming up so the next couple of weeks will be more training, less climbing. Looking forward to a lot of routes at Fair Head this summer. By far the best crag I've ever climbed at.

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Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 20 minute run and do yardwork and cut grass
Tues: Meet 5 year-old grandson at Sand Rock and chase him around, also do two very easy routes with wife
Wed: 25 minute run on lunch break at work, good hill work
Thur: go see "How to Train Your Dragon" with grandson
Fri: cook out and drink beer, play Wii
Sat: eat and work
Sun: guests gone, Yea, 20 minute on campus board, (Quote from Ben Franklin: "Guests, like fish, start to stink after 3 days")
Easy week with house guests, try to think of it as time to let fingers and elbow recoop, this week maybe 2 days to climb, try to work on onsights

JamesD

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Short term goals
get up to V4/V5 indoors by the end of May

Medium term goal
climb above a 5C outdoors

Long term goal
get outdoors more!

Monday
Fuck all, laid in bed complaining how ill I was

Tuesday
See above

Wednesday
See above, with the added bonus of working

Thursday
See above

Friday
See above

Saturday
Feeling better, so went for a walk...the closest i've come to exercise all week

Sunday
Feeling pretty much recovered, save for a minor cough still, back on the training tomorrow.

Andy F

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Goals: COTC, GA, new addition GBH
Tues - Beastmaker, good session for 50 mins
Wed - nowt
Thurs - Pex. Did most of the usual circuit, felt a bit clunky on the more slabby stuff.
Friday - Woke up with hugely swollen right forearm  :o. Went to the Pharmacy to get anti histamines for the insect bite on my right forearm. Didn't train.
Sat. Nowt.
Sun - Malham. Usual warm-ups. Three goes on GBH, got all the moves sorted , some links. This is the new downstairs goal. Excellent route, good holds, pumpy as hell. Cool down on 7b.

Plattsy

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Boulder 7A
Weight 13st 6lbs

M: Easy 4 miles jog.
T: 1 session on Mark's roof left hand in rather warm conditions. Done in two halves. Need to link.
W: Start off on a another easy jog. Hamstring feels tight and very sore. Cut short the run.
T: Rest and beer.
F: Rest.
S: Rest and beer.
S: Mark's roof LH submits in good conditions. First 7A. Scoot off to meet friends at a very warm Burbage north. Bimble about ticking off 5's and 6a's.

Need to re-assess my goal a little and rather predictably I'll make the goal 7A+. Quite pleased the week off snowboarding and drinking didn't have any adverse effect and was maybe a good rest.

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stg - try to crimp on buggered finger without tape. crap week n struggled finding time to do owt..... Hopefully as finger is on the mend I'll get back to 3-4 sessions a week...
ltg - learn to 'rest' when my body says rest - hopefully wont bugger another finger that way...

Mon - routes at warrington.
Tues - rest
weds - rest
thurs - fingerboard (crimped with finger fully taped up for 1st time since dec, no pain next day)
fri - wild camping/ walkin nr Cnicht
sat - as above
sun - nuthin

chris05

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Thought

chris05

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Thought I would get involved with this, have been indulging over on the other channel but with the chance of extra motivation to train thought Id start here as well.

STG: font 7a
MTG: font 7b etc...

M:1 hr beastmaker (repeaters) & 3 mile run
T: 40mins traversing bouldering wall & 3 mile run
W: 75 mins beastmaker (repeaters)
T: rest
F: bouldering at secret garden and owler tor; beach ball felt doable (at some point) although I then got spanked by a 4+ (!) at owler tor which I blamed on having no skin left.
S: hungover but managed 5 mile walk in the peak, tried to make skin regrow using the power of mind and copious amounts of handcream (moderate success)
S: bouldering at churnet, no great ticks but a good volume session

Good week for training/actual bouldering but the best part was that I didn't feel a twinge from my usually very dodgy elbows, not sure what has caused this but I hope it continues.

JohnM

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M: Buoux - really busy, waited to get on Reve but gave up went on 7c+ to the left but failed to do it at the end of the day.
T:  Buoux - Fingers sore and swollen.  Didn't do anything hard but did amazing 7a (Songe Sucre) and desperate 7a+ slab (not what I came on holiday for!).
W: Rain - stayed at friends in Aix and had copious amounts of red wine and raclette.
T: More rain - stopped off at Vanasque on way back up north.  Really fun overhanging climbing on big holds!
F: Font - Half the red circuit at Isatis in glorious weather before leaving to catch the ferry.
S: Rest day.
S: Put a rope on Dawes Rides a Shovelhead in Langdale.  Brilliant climbing but very easy for E8.  Ran out of time/excuses for the lead at the end of the day - will definitely go back and lead it soon!

Good trip to France but not the fitness gaining trip i'd hoped for.  Buoux was not the best venue for a short trip racking up mileage and gaining stamina.  Should have gone to Tarn but was put off by the mixed weather report.

duncan

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STG: El Cap.
LTG: E5

M - Trad. bumbling at Froggatt.  Cold and damp.  Good training for something but I'm not sure what.
T - Work ie nothing
W - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Visited family in Somerset.  Tweaked shoulder playing with 10 year old nephew who seemed to think he was still 3 years old and I was 25. 
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Trad. bumbling at The Roaches. Glorious sunny day.  Had my ass handed to me on a plate.  It's good to know your weaknesses </Dave Macleod> and one of mine is strength. 
S - Completely beasted but no shoulder pain, on which basis booked flight to San Francisco YYFY
Went to Andy Kirkpatrick talk "10 Steps Towards Climbing El Cap."  Thought about asking for my money back under the Trades Descriptions act as this should clearly have been titled  "10 Steps Backwards To Not Climbing El Cap" and was no help at all towards achieving STG.

nai

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Goal Font 7C, Font circuits in 4 weeks, get back into trad and sport this summer.
 
M - nothing, guests still here, absolutely knackered.
T - Tired but force myself to train - 6 sets encores +2kg followed by 5 sets one armers.  Once warmed up didn't feel too bad for the weekend's excesses.
W - zip
Th - Higgar after work, do Sh!t, first (and last?) 7B+ of the season, made up.  Then realise I've lost my wallet and search/fret for three hours until I get a phone call from a guy who found it - double YYFY.
F - Um and ah about whether to bother, go to Rubicon briefly but not massively psyched and unable to concentrate on any problem for too long, get chatting to 205chris and turns out we have common goals and available time so could turn out to be a productive session in a different way.
S - family trip to Brimham.   Wanted to do three problems - managed Pommel and Whisky Galore but bottle ACME Wall for the nth time.  Nice day to be out, kids enjoyed it which bodes well for font.
S- pretty sore, seem to be developing a slight wrist problem which is ok while climbing but feels stiff and tender the following day.

Diet went to pot a bit, back on the crisps and ate lots of daughter no2's birthday cake.  Beginning to think it might be too late for the 7C this year but  off work for a physio appointment on Wed so there's a chance then, torn between heading up to the cliff and arranging some local trad/sport, will watch the weather.  Definitely starting to think more and more about routes and (gulp) limestone.

andybfreeman

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Goals: 7B in the forest 7c route anywhere

M =- included in last week because of bank holiday but routes then bouldering at the Castle
T - rest
W - power session 45 deg board. really struggled with power didn't seem to be recovered from the previous week's exertions.
Th - easy session at TCA new blue circuit so nothing too hard but felt good, or better than wed anyway!
F - rest
Sa - morning in the office turned into whole day i the office, very frustrating when the weather was so good.
Su - portland bouldering. didn't have a guide so was a a bit of a weird day. found lightening strike but couldn't work out the crux (for me) pull through onto the face with left hand. tried liquid sun and sunshine. got all the moves but bottled the link as i only had 1 pad and no spot! couldn't find neil armstrong or the terminator. fun day in the sun but got less done than I'd hoped. Did a caldwell when i go home as didn't feel too tired - felt better than last time and feel fine this morning!

Weight - average 68.5 for the week (68.9 last week). heading in right direction again and with no real effort on my part  :great:

Spain trip planned for early june so will look to do specific weight loss int he weeks leading up to that trip. sadly i won't be able to get back to font until winter now so my goal will be extended to include being able to boulder 7B in the uk as well!
« Last Edit: April 12, 2010, 01:48:56 pm by andybfreeman »

Monolith

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Well goals are still my project. Not too fussed about anything else time due to time constraints.

Monday N/A
Tues N/A
Weds Two mile run then did same fingerboard session as last week then one mile to warm down. Felt lightning pace on the two miler and similarly charged come warm down.
Thurs N/A
Fri N/A
Sat N/A
Sun N/A

Managed to train only once this week between a lot of work. Intend to train tonight.

iain

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STG: was 7B+ in Font, but more about trying the 8 problems in 7B/+ range I had picked out because they were inspiring and ok for the shortish or I'd been spanked on them before and had a score to settle. Got on 5 and did 3 which I was well pleased with. Send of the trip was definitely doing La Plafond at Dame Joanne 30 mins before we had to leave for the ferry. It all came together and was as close to a perfect climbing performance as I've ever had. The most pleasing aspect for me was dealing with the pressure of the impending departure and the fact I'd absolutely wasted myself working it the previous day and was still feeling knackered. I had time for 1 proper go and whereas a year ago I would probably have given up under the (self imposed) pressure, I managed to pull on, give it everything I had and stay focussed on climbing well at the same time. So chuffed  :bounce:

MTG: Freaky Ralph - need to think about whether this is possible.

LTG: Going to give more thought to this


The Font trip was a little derailed by illness, particularly for my wife, but we both had really good time regardless. I could happily spend the rest of my life climbing there.

Taking it easy this week climbing wise. Busy at weekends till the start of May now so a little time to think about new goals and plans for the summer.


@andybfreeman
Terminator isn't obvious but it's at the bottom of the main descent to the boulderfield, a (kind of) recessed overhanging face about 5 metres from Nu Breed if you know where that is, or 30 secs walk from liquid sun and visible from the top of that boulder looking back at the descent path.
Neil Armstrong is south along the path from Lightning Strike, then left after 15-20 metres to some hidden boulders.
If you're looking for company on Terminator and Liquid Sun(shine) give me a shout, I'm keen to try them myself.

andy popp

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STG: heel
Rest of the Year: Cheshire projects

Mon: Deadhanging, with added weights for first time. Feel OK but back tweaked by crash hurts. Swim in pm
Tues: Try to boulder on board but pain in back makes it impossible. Grit teeth thro more weighted deadhangs. Get sports massage, am told not to do anything for five days. Bummer, am meant to be climbing in Pass on Fri
Wed: nowt
Thurs: nowt
Fri: shepherd daughter up to Utopia in the Pass. Warm up OK, V0, V2, V3, V4, V5, but back starts killing again as soon as I start trying harder - have to pack in.
Sat: Castles and partying
Sun: Drive home

Very frustrated that I'm being held back from training and climbing by stupid injury that was not my fault. Will try again Wed.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2010, 03:37:50 pm by andy popp »

webbo

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STG
lose weight
Mon rockcity short session as i had to work.not going too bad to say how tired i felt from yesterday.theraband exs.first day on diet failed as wife bought a take away and wine
Tue rest and shopping for diet.i.e buy nowt.theraband exs.diet
Wed rockcity good session repeated the hardest problem of this set i've done plus most others twice.theraband exs.diet
Thu cycling 11/2 hours.theraband exs. diet
Fri. bouldering caley.did confessions of a specimen hunter 7a.nearly flashed it.the wobbled my way through successful attempt.did s/s to grove on the flapjack 7a.ran out of skin pretty quickly.theraband exs.diet
Sat cycling 3 hours.felt a bit battered afterwards and lower back ached.theraband exs.
Sun bouldering thorn crag.managed to bash my knuckles warming up.which seemed to effect my confidence and motivation.climbed ok in the end but skin was crap again.did a couple of 6c+s.
not a bad weeks effort diet went to pot abit over w/e.

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Goal: Font 7c
weight 14st 10lb
body fat 28% (must be retaining a lot of water)

M - nothing, lack motivation
T - short session on grit, skin rubish, no motivation
W - decide that climbing is stupid and give up for the week
Th - nowt, mood worsens
F - rien, mood crashes into manure pile. Long walk muttering and grumbling looking for gangs of youths to fight.
S - spend most of day cooking, eating, burning stuff and entertaining children, happiest I've felt all week so drink beer. Skin improving. Buy flowers for wife.
Sun - 2 hour bike ride with baby attached in morning then cook and eat tapas for the rest of the day with minimum beer intake. Buy Cath Kidston mug for wife.

Stubbs

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Goals:
ZY (although prob missed the season now TBH,  may have to trade for something slime soon!)
In shape for Swizzy in the summer
Place better in next year's Leeds bouldering comps!

M: Rest
T: Beastmaker, weights, core - still felt a bit battered after weekend
W: Rest
T: Weights, run about 4 miles.
F: Short lunchtime Beastmaker sesh.
S: Nowt
S: Nowt

Fairly easy week after 4 days on up to sunday. Had a bit of a cold, only felt like half my lungs were working when I was running!

nik at work

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8B, 8b, (E8)

STG - sport 8 and Font 8 in the same month (ideally this one)

Mon - in Font 'nuf said.
Tues - in Font 'nuf said.
Weds - in Font 'nuf said.
Thurs - in Font 'nuf said.
Fri - in Font 'nuf said.
Sat - driving back from Font, ate lots of pastries
Sun - still driving back from Font, had a satisfying pooh when I got home.

Think I'll be engaging sport mode next week.

chris_j_s

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Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Weighted deadhangs, then some arm work on rock rings
T: Bouldered at Ingleton - repeated some of the hard problems then concentrated on circuits to try and push my endurance a little more. Good session but slightly unstructured - must do better!
W: Rest
T: Weighted deadhangs.
F: Rest day.
S: Castleberg. Did a 7a 2nd go which is a first for me. Felt like the hardest 7a I've done too (as in it wasn't really my style... steep and long-ish) so well happy with that.
S: 6hr walk in Lakes. Hoping for enough light for an evening session when we got back but was a little too late.

Now that some decent weather is upon us I've ditched the indoor target at Ingleton. Hopefully I'll be able to do more bouldering/routes sessions outdoors instead. Fingers very much crossed for this period of good weather to continue... :please:

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Have updated goals to be a little more specific (and probably more unrealistic  :-\  but time will tell!)

STG Goals:

Trad:
Peak: Flying Buttress Direct HVS, L'horla E1, Qietus E2
Wales: Cemetry Gates E1, Left wall E2, Comes the Dervish E3
Ireland: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Pump up the valium, lighweight lewis denvers both E3 (All Muckross)
Rail Road E1 Jolly Roger E3, GBH E3 (Fairhead), Other Fish E4 6b (Culdaff, Headpoint, dont ask), Gallows pole E2, Lucy E2, Siren E3 (Burren) 
Boulder Chubbs Patterson 7a(+?) Fairhead ,
sport onsight 7a (minimum) . Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

LTG's:
Trad:
Profit of Doom E4,Right Wall E5, London Wall E5, Rusty Halo E4, Wall of Fossils E4, Strapodictimy E5, Flesh E5, Operation mindcrime E5, Wall of Pray E5, Gaia E8 (Headpoint - some chance but I'll put it down) 
Sport: Redpoint 8a, Onsight 7b+. Je suis un legend 7a+ Verdon. Mirage 7c+ Ceuse. 
Boulder: 7b+, Midnight lightning. Biceps mou
Big Wall: Climb the Nose on El Cap.

Other: run sub 40 min 10 k, sub 20min 5 k, sub 90 min half marathon. 2 one arm pullups.

Mon  Ran approx 50 min followed by 5 * 10 pullups and 1*20 + 2*15 push ups
Tue   Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Wed  Ran 45 min approx.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering. 
Fri     Rest.
Sat    Ran 1 hr 5 min. Felt fucked, was really hot and had to walk part of the last mile. First time in years that I couldn't finish a run.Wasn't happy.
Sun   Finally got to the crag. Soloed a severe, 2nd HVS 5a, Led a HVS 5b. Had a top roping session on a short powerful E4 6b that I've done before, did about 5 or 6 laps. 

Not great week. Had hoped to get out climbing more. Struggled a bit with my running(perhaps need to ease off a bit). Injured finger hurting again this week. 

Yossarian

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Pretty shit week training-wise, as too much work on and then too much eating and boozing in the evenings.

However, ran like I was being chased by an irate Belizian drug dealer (closest comparison from previous experience) on Tuesday night, which was quite fun.
And I managed about 4 hours on the bike on Sunday.
No strength training of any sort though. Tut tut.

Taking Falling Down's Gym Jones lead, my new STG is to beast myself to within an inch of my life with a combination of vicious strength exercises and punishing cardio.
I also intend to climb as many good sandstone 6s as I can over the summer, and check out the bouldering at High Rocks properly...
15 mile run in July, Dragon Ride in June, and then some off-road duathlons in the autumn.

SA Chris

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M-F nothing worth mentioning. Too much headstress and a big deadline

S - Climbed a ladder about a dozen times as I kept forgettign things while replacing aerial
S - Went for long walk in woods with bairn, lovely spring day.

I will climb again one day.

Jaspersharpe

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As expected, last week I did fuck all.

My one achievement (apart from work / house selling stuff) was to get about ten mates I've not seen for ages out on a mammoth drinking session on Friday night. Got in at about half three and it took me two days to recover.

Back on it this week.

Falling Down

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New STG’s – Get proper fit for Surfing trip in May.
MTG’s – Redpoint 7c (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M – Montsant onsighted 2 enourmous 35m 6b+’s.
T – Arboli and Valley Crag onsighted 2 6b+ & 6c+
W – Rest/Stretching
T- 45 minute intervals swimming
F – 45 minute intervals swimming
S – 100 Pressups & stretching
S – Easy soloing (18 routes) at Wingather with Galpinos

A good week for overall exercise. Was climbing well by the time we left Siurana. Now with this surfing trip coming up I’ve got to beast myself into shape so will be putting loads of effort into overall conditioning, cardio and core/upper body.

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@andybfreeman
Terminator isn't obvious but it's at the bottom of the main descent to the boulderfield, a (kind of) recessed overhanging face about 5 metres from Nu Breed if you know where that is, or 30 secs walk from liquid sun and visible from the top of that boulder looking back at the descent path.
Neil Armstrong is south along the path from Lightning Strike, then left after 15-20 metres to some hidden boulders.
If you're looking for company on Terminator and Liquid Sun(shine) give me a shout, I'm keen to try them myself.


sounds good iain. are you around the weekend after next (24/25 April)? I really liked the feel of the rock but without a guide spent more time stumbling through brambles than i did actually trying stuff!

Mark, if you see this do you want to come down as well? BTW where's your training post? even shit weeks should be recorded, that's kinda the point!

SA Chris

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S – 100 Pressups & stretching

You omitted a detail mentioned in your blog about what happened during pushups ;)

Falling Down

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That blog post was from last night.  100 pressups in 4 sets of 25 on a Saturday morning was relatively easy in comparison with trying to do 50 reps in the middle of the workout from Hades.  I spewed up twice last night and was worried at one point that I'd had a stroke cos I couldn't get off the floor. Wish I'd never said ought now as I sound like a right dickhead.

iain

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And do you think the Gym Jones routines actually work if you are doing them alone? I guess a lot of the benefit may come from the hormonal response to doing stupidly masochistic stuff in a group?

Brilliant  ;D

That blog post was from last night.  100 pressups in 4 sets of 25 on a Saturday morning was relatively easy in comparison with trying to do 50 reps in the middle of the workout from Hades.  I spewed up twice last night and was worried at one point that I'd had a stroke cos I couldn't get off the floor. Wish I'd never said ought now as I sound like a right dickhead.

Full marks for the effort though, can't say you've not been trying hard.


sounds good iain. are you around the weekend after next (24/25 April)? I really liked the feel of the rock but without a guide spent more time stumbling through brambles than i did actually trying stuff!

I might be, I'll know by tomorrow and pm you.

Three Nine

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Sorry for late post.

Goals

STG (this month): Just Revenge, onsight 7bs again
MTG (Europe): Onsight 7cs, 8as in different styles, 7C
LTG (Spring 2011): Tuppence

M Easy miles Portland, climbed badly and really weak
T Easy miles Portland, climbed badly and really weak
W Tried power 45, aborted as couldnt do my warm up, deadhangs
T Rest
F Rest
S The Gap miles, climbed shit
S Tried Just Revenge at Anstey's, got schooled but brill route

Strange week for me. Was horrified at sudden weakness and shitness. My weight has gone up quite a lot, but not enough to explain this. Spoke to ex-wad and he reckoned you need to have an easy week about once every six weeks so will do that next week, then hopefully get back on it. A disturbing turn to my experiment with training. I didn't feel like i'd been doing all that much, but i guess its early days for me. Trying to think long term. Also not sleeping great at the moment which may be affecting things. Psyched off my tits to do Just Revenge as is great. Would hope to do it next visit.

andybfreeman

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Sorry for late post.

consider yourself forgiven!   :whistle:

been looking at Anstey's on the other channel and now regret not coming down last weekend - some of the shorter routes, la creme etc, look amazing. i'm busy this weekend but let me know when you're heading down next. i'm not sure what if anything i'll be able to get done but i'm feeling strong this week, well better than last week's pathetic 'power' session anyway

Three Nine

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Yeah i am always keen for that place and you would love it. You mean your shit power session when you were more powerful than I probably ever will be?!

Falling Down

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Sounds like a fast route to buggered elbows/ shoulders though.

I worried about that too given my recent run of injuries but it's really not that bad on either although I've always been OK at lots of pressups.  I guess if you are f*cked and doing 25 pullups it's probably not that good and maybe take it easy. It's my legs that the most from the deadlifts and box jumps.

And do you think the Gym Jones routines actually work if you are doing them alone? I guess a lot of the benefit may come from the hormonal response to doing stupidly masochistic stuff in a group?

I'm sure that has an effect  :-*

It's certainly interesting though going from a relatively active lifestyle climbing each week, doing weights, running and cycling to suddenly really shocking the system in a big way so there's certainy some truth in how fit/strong you can become if you really want it (he says with a glass of red wine in hand stuffing his face with cheese)  :-[

Yossarian

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Indeed. Inspired by your tales of vomiting, I embarked upon a magnificent orgy of pain last night (after a 3 hour bike ride the previous day) encompassing fast running, then deadlifting, bench press pyramids, dumbell press and cleans, pull-ups and pressups, and then more running.  Felt pretty sick.\

Planned a 2 hour bike ride and 45 minute run this evening, but am aching all over and instead making naughty animations and considering a McFiend.

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I too am inspired by FD's 300 efforts.
I asked Mrs Starfish how she'd feel about me trying to get a 300 body. She looked blankly at me and I remembered that she had no interest in seeing the film. So, I showed her some pics on 'tweb. After she had stopped drooling/lusting she agreed that this might be a productive, fun use of my time. Looks like I might be working towards doing the 300 workout in less than 20 hours minutes like some of the actors did.
Mind you, she fucking freaked when she realised that I'd washed the baby in wine and then left it out in the back garden for the night to see if it survives. Fickle woman.

Nibile

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monday-rest
tuesday-rest
wednesday-bouldering in the gym, felt heavy but decent. two problems on the 15° wall, then a new one on the 45°: pretty happy about this, i was tired but i kept my mind together and did it.
thursday-rest
friday-drove to ticino
saturday-climbed in chironico, tired, unable to keep the volume, 7a/7b
sunday-climbed in brione, started feeling better, did a 7a then failed on molonk, then tried frogger.
comments: didn't do much as it shows, in the gym i was quite depressed but some friends made me pull harder, in the end a nice session at least for one problem. finger is getting better but in the gym and in ticino it hurt alot and spoilt a little bit my trip. still feeling generally a bit tired.

Fiend

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When I was a teenager, I could do 70-80 press-ups fairly regularly. These days I struggle to do 30. Bit weird that. I can do more pull-ups tho.

shark

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Thanks for starting thread Charles

Late post as was away this week.

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight 11.4-5 (previous week 11.3-4)

M.Tor. First visit of year. Still wet in places. Few goes on the crux of Powerband. 2 dogs up the Toilet. Led Sardine and Tin Of clean.
T. Early AM Yoga
W.
T. Tor. Few goes on the crux of Powerband. 2 dogs up the Toilet.
F.
S.Drove to Font
S.AM Bouldered at Bouligny

Sardine is a good benchmark for me and felt good on it. Had an ace first day at Bouligny doing a couple of things graded 7a - first time doing anything at this grade in Font before.

Fiend

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Fucking slack there with the reply time shark, someone needs to get their Power Club cane out... :P

Richie Crouch

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Goals for 2010: In Hell (Parisellas), berezina, aerodynamite, big boss (Font)

Mon 5th: Cave session, had 4 redpoints on In Hell, managed to get to penultimate move, tired. Breakthrough on couple moves on Clyde. Keen for this after IH.
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Campussing
Fri: Short bouldering session
Sat: Climbed on new woody after resetting it on Friday
Sun: Went to font at 4am. Got there and hit Cuvier, managed Aerodynamite, Biceps Mou but didn't get Berezina. Couldn't match high sloper on La Balance as it was humid (and I'm shit on Slopey grips)

Duma

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scraping in before the cut off...
nothing again last week, though I do have the excuse that the physio's told me to rest the knee.
On the other hand, did buy a car and get my hair permed into a massive 'fro (for charity, tho it's growing on me...)
Occurred to me that this shouldn't really prevent deadhanging etc...

 

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