Ey oop. I finally got upto stanage today and did Solomon's Seal second go (pebble snapped on the flash) so after all that walk in for 10seconds worth of climbing i thought i better make the most of this wall and get stuck in. It seemed like Solomon's would go from an obvious sitter down and left in the break (under kim's feet here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=6381.0)
Start sitting with both hands in the break. Move LH to an undercling and get a goot footlock with the left, move RH upto the lovely crimpy pocket, and lock this down to near your waist (lovely move this) to reach up into the starting LH sidepully undercling, RH boshes out to a pebble and then your hands are into the stand up of solomon's. then some tricky foot moves lead through into the stand up.
I think this adds 2 rather hard moves and a bit of grease into the stand. But seeing as though the stand wasn't 8a (seemed same grade as danny's problem (which i think is 7c+) but harder than other crimpy grit 7cs like ready brek or great white) that said i got it by the skin of my teeth on last go of the day (no wind!) and i was having a rather good day today (fingerboard test confirmed it was a good un (full set of 1 arm encores on the 35s no nestle)) so who knows. Conditions were very still and quite warm though, but my skin is like leather at the moment so it didn't matter too much i don't think. And there was a grouse that wouldn't bloody shut up... that put me off a bit
I'd also like to add that it really isn't that morpho compared to some problems around. And the full line is one of the best straight up 8's i've done in the peak (effort Kim) the last move is brilliant and from a sitter it is a nice consistently hard wall. which i think checks in as being a bit harder than the joker (and better IMHO). Considering it is within sight of the plantation it is a world away in feel.
the hanging arete to the left is also rather pleasant and should go in the new guide, i also did a lower start to the jester by starting crouched on the arete (sitter would be one of those horrible feet above arse upside down jobbies)
