[GCW]

http://www.realbuzz.com/blogs/u/Simon_Doyle/time-out/posts/fancy-a-midget-gym/

Fancy a midget, eh?  You should be looking here.

[rginns]

Fancy a midget, eh?  You should be looking here.

Ok, can I take it that's NSFW or will I not get fired if the Director walks past?

[GCW]

Ah, but you're very curious aren't you...............

[rginns]

Ah, but you're very curious aren't you...............

ooooooo yeah


suits by rickginns, on Flickr

[comPiler]

Positive Progress
31 March 2011, 8:24 pm

Dry days- 50

Days of rain- 40

It rained yesterday, but today it dawned misty and dried up later.  I had arranged to meet the Ginnster at Cadshaw- he was keen on a Brian Jacques and I was keen to revisit Rivers of Blood low start.

The Red Wall was a little greasy, but it's such a weird place for conditions.  Everything felt hard today at first, both of us performing badly.  The Ginnster was trying Brian Jacques via the R-Man sequence.  I had a look at this and suggested he try my dynamic method.  I managed to demonstrate the move after a few goes, although I had my left foot further left than before.  The Lord of the Pastry-Coated-Meat-Feasts was getting close, I think he'll be in with a good chance with this one.

I had a go at Brian Jacques from the sitter and was pleased to nail it first try- the move to the edge is one of those that is impossible until  you get the knack.  I played on the sitter to RoB, failing miserably trying to get the RH edge.  I then tried it going up to the RH crimpy sloper first, rather than taking the LH edge first.  This felt nails until my LF happened upon a tiny dink, and then I managed the move a couple of times.  

I'm really psyched for this problem, it feels solid 7b and maybe harder.  But it's so conditionsy it's hard to tell.  It's also pretty morpho.  I think it'll take some working.  PastyKid is keen for a Brian Jacques rematch too, so I may end up back here a bit in the near future.  Bring it on.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Probes]

Yo Gcw, have you atopo for this area, was out on the bi cycle the other night and popped in for a look, so i dont inadvertantly steal any of your projects.

[GCW]

I can knock one together if you want, Paul.  It's quite a nice wall. 

[Probes]

Yeh that would be cool, yeh it is suprisingly quite nice rock on close inspection.

[GCW]

Sorry it's a bit shit but I'm at work.



1.  Mighty Mouse 7a+.  Wall on razor edges, one of R-Man's
2.  Brian Jacques 7a, another of R-Man's.  Sit with LH sidepull crack and RH low sidepull.  Pull up to RH sidepull then use left arete and face holds to move back up right to the flake jug.
3.  Rivers of Blood 7a-ish.  Standing start to the centre of the wall (see my recent vid).  My main project is the sit start for Brian Jacques into this (ie no hands on left arete)
4.  Jump Arete 6b.  Jump to the jug then up to the flake jug.  The sit for BJ linked into this is my other project, but I've been too chicken to latch the jump to the jug so far!!
Further right is a blunt arete which is RGinn's project.

Enjoy!!  Let me know opinions on grades too.  Various videos of these are in the Lancashire New Problems Thread.

[comPiler]

New Problems at Wet Poo
3 April 2011, 5:32 pm

Dry days- 52

Days of rain- 41

It dawned a nice day, but by 7:30 it was raining. I headed over to Wilton One to see if Snakey B would be dry, but there was an offensive cloying low cloud that had soaked everything, so I headed to West View instead.

The problems have been reset.  As I only had an hour, I threw myself into them and did most of the stuff up to V5, flashing most of these.  When I finished I was pretty pumped so went away fairly happy.  Need to get a bit stronger though if I'm going to finish my Aims for 2011!!!

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Probes]

Sorry it's a bit shit but I'm at work.



1.  Mighty Mouse 7a+.  Wall on razor edges, one of R-Man's
2.  Brian Jacques 7a, another of R-Man's.  Sit with LH sidepull crack and RH low sidepull.  Pull up to RH sidepull then use left arete and face holds to move back up right to the flake jug.
3.  Rivers of Blood 7a-ish.  Standing start to the centre of the wall (see my recent vid).  My main project is the sit start for Brian Jacques into this (ie no hands on left arete)
4.  Jump Arete 6b.  Jump to the jug then up to the flake jug.  The sit for BJ linked into this is my other project, but I've been too chicken to latch the jump to the jug so far!!
Further right is a blunt arete which is RGinn's project.

Enjoy!!  Let me know opinions on grades too.  Various videos of these are in the Lancashire New Problems Thread.

Cheers man, looks good, ill give you some feedback if i get up there.

[GCW]

Considering recent wet weather, it'll need a few days of drying to be back in condition.  but all feedback is welcome, especially on grades.

[Probes]

Mate, i cant grade for toffee   

[GCW]

Me neither, so if we both guess I'm sure we'll end up at the right answer   

[comPiler]

Who'd Have Thought it?
5 April 2011, 7:48 am

Doing an 8 in the three main disciplines of rock isn't that common.  Doing an 8 in all three disciplines in the style intended (ie onsight for trad etc) is less common.

BeardyBeast had managed the first two, flash of Doug (Roaches) and onsight solo of Boldness Through Ignorance (Cow's Mouth, E8 now the peg is gone) and font 8a boulder problems (eg La Puce at Canche).  But being a bit of a punter, he hadn't managed a sport 8 (mainly as he hadn't been arsed I suspect).

Finally pulling his finger out he's gone and done a sport 8 at last- Moddey Dhoo 8a+ at Trollers Gill.  The trio is complete.

BUT, what this also means is that he's gone and done a first ascent in each area, since Moddey Dhoo is a new route.  Add this to That's My Lot (E8 7a, Rivelin Quarries, FA) and Snatch (font 8a, Denham), Titus Gaukroger (font 8a/+, Mytholm) and Nik's Wall (font 8a+, Rivelin) and it's quite an impressive acheivement (but don't tell the Beardy One I said that or he'll need bigger hats).

All I can say is "Medal Time":

If only he did any coaching..........

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[Probes]

GCW, are you saying he's onsighted the F8a+. Either way fine clambering skilz.

[GCW]

No I wasn't, but E8 is for the onsight so my point was that doing all three 8s including E8 onsight isn't too common.

[Probes]

Ah Yep i see now.

[comPiler]

Spanked
6 April 2011, 8:38 pm

Dry days- 54

Days of rain- 42

I had a spare hour today so I risked a CyL trip despite the wet weather this morning.  There was a lot of dripping/ seepage from the top and the top break.  I stayed at the left end doing various easy traversing and up problems.  After half an hour The Jeewooth arrived and not long after Serpico turned up, bemoaning his excessive bulk.

Anyway, I had an hour re-acquanting myself with CyL then had to rush off again.  It just served to reinforce the areas of weakness- but that's a good thing isn't it??

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[comPiler]

Spanked.... again
7 April 2011, 9:12 pm

Dry days- 55

Days of rain- 42

Tonight I went to West View, feeling rather tired.  Basically I did all the stuff up to V5 and got a couple of the 6s worked out but didn't have enough in the tank.  BeardyBeast and the Ginnster were looking strong as ever.

Fingers crossed for decent weather- I have a day or two free next week.  Maybe an Almscliff rematch is in order..........

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[comPiler]

Rain, drizzle, mist, wind, and precipitation
11 April 2011, 4:26 pm

Dry days- 58

Days of rain- 43

Today I had the whole day free, the last few days hve been hot and sunny.  I was going to have a look at Guisecliff which is somewhere I've never been.  The forecast didn't look great though, but why waste a day?

The day started out nice, but once at Guisecliff it became darker and more threatening.  I landed up at the Mop Top block, and did the left side of the arete (well actually I didn't as I didn't top it out as the top was filthy).

I then wandered to have a look at A Little Sparkle, and as I arrived the rain started.  It was drizzle at first, but enough to make all the smear slimy so I gave it up pretty quickly.  I looked at Jesus Jelly Mould which needs a good scrub, then the heavens opened.  I wandered back to the car getting soaked.  Actually, I stomped up and down the hillside looking at all the other stuff, getting soaked.

So then I sat in the car eating my lunch and watching the horizontal rain thinking of what to do.  I opted to risk a visit to Snowden as I knew the Tantric wall overhangs and the wind was in the right direction.  I was right on this occasion, and the wall was dry- the top was soaked and there was some run off but it was dripping away from the rock.

I did Naked Yoga via a better sequence- this along with the rock stabilising means it's likely 6c.  I then did The Bridge second try, but without the top out onto soaking slopers.  Tantric Traverse still resisted.  I find this really hard on the first move.  I did it from the second move to the end, but that first span feels nails.  I wonder if it's my unstable shoulder that does it?

So there you go, a wet day.  Typical.  And now I'm back home typing this and it's sunny again.  Typical.

from GCW on Vimeo.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter

[andy_e]

Nope, it's just one really hard move and the rest is a path in comparison.

[Nigel Poustie]

Just for the record : The Bridge should finish in the groove of Rainbow. it Feels much harder from the left, it's the crux of The Bridge really due to the moves before it. Nice one for getting out there!

[GCW]

Yes, I didn't make that clear.  The Groove was wet which is why I finished where I did.

[comPiler]

A day behind
13 April 2011, 7:19 pm

Dry days- 60

Days of rain- 43

Yesterday I dropped in at Woodwell for an hour.  It was dry and in OK condition.  The BOBN hold has finally gone leaving a sloping hold in its place.  I also note a bit has come off of the Closer/ Sanctified undercut, but it makes little difference.

I fell off the move to the lip on Screaming Slave for a while, then did Closer and What's This For the cheaty way.  After this I went for a walk around the coast, then found the tea shop(s) aren't open on a Tuesday.  Brill.

Source: Wafflings of a Lanky Punter