[comPiler]

Chuck Fryberger interview
8 April 2010, 9:17 am

Dave McAllister has made a quite extensive interview with Chuck Fryberger, then man behind Pure and the recently released Core. Like I said, it's quite long, but also very much worth reading. I liked it.

You can find it here.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Daila Ojeda interview
9 April 2010, 7:38 am

Pierre Delás from Kairn also interviewed Daila Ojeda while in Spain, shortly after her ascent of Fish eye, 8c.

Enjoy!

Back to Santa Linya. After Chris Sharma, I exchanged a few words with his girlfriend Daila Ojeda. At the foot of one of her new projects, "Digital System" she answers my questions in an improvised interview. In late February she made one of the best female performance of 2010 by climbing "Fish eye", her first 8c, at Oliana. Thank you once again Laurent Triay for offering us some exclusive photos, taken during the successful attempt.



Congratulations for climbing "Fish eye" at Oliana. For how long have you worked the route?

First of all thank you! I worked it for a total of 2 months, especially this month of February when I had to really really get involved and to push myself hard. Before, the conditions were not good, windy and humid days. At Christmas, I didn't have that much time to try. At the end I got lucky and was able to succeed.

"Fish Eye" is a very long route(50 m), can you describe the style?

Yes, one pitch of 50 m, which goes to the top of the wall, very physical and very technical. The first part is more physical, and the final part a technical slab. In the latter part, you have to keep your calm and your balance. I fell twice on the last move. But if you go slowly and you believe... finally I did it.



What will you do next? "Digital System" (Ed.: 8c, Santa Linya)?

Yes I tried but it was wet all winter because it rained a lot. But today I came to this route because it is great and really motivates me. But I don't know if I want to do something challenging again, I want to climb for fun and recharge my batteries quickly by doing something new.

Your favorite style of climbing?

My taste is quite broad, but if anything, I prefer when it's slightly overhanging, with crimpers.

Your favorite area in Catalonia

Definitely Oliana. For the landscape, there are a lot of gas in the channels is very long, with a particular contact with nature... I also like Santa Linya because it is a very "fanatical" and we all tend to end up here, but I prefer Oliana. All routes that I have done at Oliana are 5 stars, from 8a to the 8c I did recently. Definitely Oliana.



Do you climb outside all the time, or do you sometimes go to the gym to be able to progress on rock?

Recently only on rock. Sometimes when I have a comp in Spain I go inside, but never for projects. Plastic doesn't motivate me much. Rock above all.

What are your plans for this year?

Well, I would like to travel a little bit. We'll go to the US in April, then I don't know, back to Spain. A major project is to complete the house where we live and climbing with friends, go to Rodellar ... I have no specific project.



A word about France

It seems to me that some of the best places to climb in the world are in France, especially Céüse, which is a favorite of mine, I like it a lot. One of the best sites in the world. There is also a new generation of French climbers who climb hard. And it's always a motivation for a girl.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Goldrake, 9a+, the video
9 April 2010, 2:57 pm

From Alberto Malinverni, here's Adam Ondra working what became Goldrake, at Cornalba.

from Alberto Malinverni on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Fred Moix extends mega classic
10 April 2010, 5:28 am

Photographer Fred Moix recently succeeded to add the obvious logical start to Fred Nicole's mega-classic Joyeux Léon at La Balmaz, Switzerland. Joyeux Léon was established back in '92, and was considered as the world's hardest traverse at the time. This traverse is now considered as a well-established 8B boulder/8B+ traverse and Pompon Léon, the new line, adds 11 moves, thus making the crux sequence much more spicy according to Fred (Moix) who propose it as an 8C in the old-school traverse grading or 8B+ as a boulder.

Source: Bouldering.info

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

P-Rob in Minnesota
12 April 2010, 7:28 am

Here's Paul Robinson making the 2nd ascent of Nic Oklobja's The Raven on Minnesotan sandstone. At 8A+, it wasn't a huge challenge for Paul, but apparently it's a high quality problem, as he calls it a "classic" already. Paul also makes an absolutely stunning flash of the amazing Team America, 7C+. Again, not that cutting edge in terms of grades, but the setting and the quality... Unbelievable!

from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Nalle's Sisu-project
13 April 2010, 9:20 am

I know some think it's wrong to hype unclimbed routes or boulder problems. I'm not going to get into that particular issue right now, but let me just say, the Sisu-project is not going to be climbed soon, so you'll have plenty of time to forget about it. It looks amazingly  cool though, not to mention how impossible it looks. So far, Nalle has been able to make one move out of ~11, plus almost two foot moves. Each of these, he told me, are ~8A in their own right. Yes, the foot moves. And the move he's done, is most likely the easiest (not counting the top-out). According to Nalle, this doesn't represent the next level, but rather the next, next level!

You can find the full story on his blog.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Foreplay?
14 April 2010, 7:28 pm

Despite complaining about feeling sick yesterday, and being generaly miserable due to bad weather, Dave Graham pulled one out of the hat today by doing Open your mind, 8c+, at Santa Linya. "KING OF THE CAVE TODAY!!! HOOORAYYY!!!!!!! One more route of the list in the cave, which is just GREAT". Now... is it just me, or is there just a tad of sarcasm there. It's subtle I know, but still. Let's hope Papichulo dries up fast. Dave is really close and time is running up. Come on Dave, you can rest in Stockholm. A Muerte!!

Photo: Dave on Papichulo. With any luck I'll use this one again soon.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Schidlowski climbs Adrenalin, 8c+
15 April 2010, 8:20 am

As "Daniel" wrote in one of the comments below, 20 year old, Martin Schidlowski has managed to make the FOTHFA* of Alexander Huber's Adrenalin at Karlstein in southern Germany. The FA was done in 2001 and the 2nd ascent by brother Thomas in 2004.

*First Outside The Huber Family Ascent

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Watch out for the Finns!
16 April 2010, 6:08 am

If I'd ask you to name two Finnish climbers, I'm guessing most of you would struggle to come up with a second name after Nalle. Being from Sweden, I'd do a bit better, as Finland does have a pretty good track record when it comes to producing strong climbers. The latest guy to watch out for is 18 year old Anthony Gullsten. Andy to his friends. During a 3 week trip to Switzerland last summer (then 17), he did 11 problems in the 8A-8A+ range, and the start of this season looks even more promising, with 2 8A's, one 8A+ and his first 8B, the 3rd ascent of Nalle's Hypergravity at Sipoo. He's also began working Nalle's The Globalist, 8B+. Here's a list of the hardest boulders in Finland. For now... Watch this space!

Photo: Andy Gullsten working The Globalist.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Nice action from Nice!
16 April 2010, 10:21 am

The season has kick-started around Nice. At Castillon two notable ascents have already been recorded, both from the hands (and feet) of locals. Stéfanie Crouvizier repeated the very bouldery Taille fine, 8b+, and Enzo Oddo has made the FA of Les Griffes du Wombat, 8c+, a route bolted by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz. The crux, a section described as an ~8A boulder on small holds, comes at the very top, so it's kinda important to keep the powder dry while climbing the 50 or so moves before this.

Source: Nice climb/Kairn

Photo: Stéfanie Crouvizier on Taille fine, by Phil Maurel

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

A few questions to Martin Schidlowski
16 April 2010, 11:35 am

Before his ascent of Adrenalin, 8c+, the other day, the name Martin Schidlowski was unknown to me. Probably, this was true for most of you as well. I decided to ask the 19-year-old a few questions.



Who's Martin Schidlowski?

I'm a student from Southern Bavaria who started climbing 5 years ago. My favourite crag is Karlstein, an area mainly bolted by the Huber brothers

What does this ascent mean to you?

A step further into a new level. First route in the German 11th grade.

Can you describe the route?

About 16 metres long, but only 2 metres overhanging. Tiny holds and even smaller footholds. 8b route to a not so bad rest followed by the crux. All in all technical and sustained.

What was the main difficulty for you?

To send it before my final school exams in May start and conditions get too hot.

Although the FA was done in 2001, yours was only the 3rd ascent. How come? Any theories?

It has been tried by some strong climbers, but not sent since it has a special character. You have to be good on small crimps.

What's next?

First to achieve good grades in my A levels, then 3 months time to climb. And getting some new quickdraws, because somebody has stolen mine a week before the ascent...

Well, good luck with that Martin, and thanks!

Photo: Martin Schidlowski on X-tasy, 8b, Drug wall/Karlstein (same section as Adrenalin)

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Gaz Parry repeats The big issue
17 April 2010, 11:37 am

Gareth "Gaz" Parry has repeated John Dunne's 1996 testpiece The Big Issue, E9 6c, at the sea cliff Bosherston head, Pembroke. The route was made famous in the film by the same name, where John explains why he removes all the bolts to climb it as clean as possible, but he did use some stuck wires and a peg.

Gaz opted for a sportier approach: "I climbed it with all the gear in place so as a sport route really. All the old insitu wires are gone now and the peg is possibly very poor after 14 years in a sea cliff. All the wires are good and it is a safe route.", he told UK Climbing

The route has previously been repeated by Steve McClure, placing all gear on lead, and Adrian Berry, using Steve's preplaced gear.

Source: UK Climbing

Photo: Gaz Parry placing gear on The Big Issue, from the Gaz Parry collection

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Gabri completes the dirty dozen
18 April 2010, 5:57 am

Yesterday, Gabriele Moroni repeated Action directe, 9a, at Waldkopf/Frankenjura, for its 12 ascent over all. This was the first Italian ascent. As always, I'll try to get in touch with the man for a comment.

Photo: Gabriele Moroni on Action directe (last year)

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Gabri about Action directe
18 April 2010, 8:43 pm

I asked Gabri Moroni to comment on his ascent of Action directe. I missed him when he was online, but he was kind enough to send me a message: "I first tried AD once in October 2005...just one try to understand how difficult it was. I wasnt able to do any of the moves...

A couple of years after, I came back to Frankenjura in August to try it more seriously but after 2 days I got a small injury at the middle finger. I recovered a bit and I started training to get my fingers stronger. I came back in October for 3 straight weekends and I was very close. A couple of times I fell at the second to last move due to stupid mistakes or bad luck. I felt like I could do it that time but it seems it was not the right time.

Last year I couldn't try it a lot due to other things to do and no time to spend in Germany. I stayed one weekend again but I had very bad conditions...

This year I felt better prepared and stronger and after one day of rework the moves, I did it second try of the second day. when I got to the top sequence I was climbing like in trance... amazing feeling..."

Thanks Gabri, and, again, congratulations!

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

2nd ascent of La guerre de nerfs, 9a, by Gérôme Pouvreau
19 April 2010, 7:02 am

Kairn reports, Gérôme Pouvreau has made the second ascent of La guerre de nerfs, 9a, at La Verrière. The FA was made by Pierre Soulé in February last year 2009.

In total, Gérôme needed three days, with most of the tries ended on a difficult single move near the top. In the end, he figured it out, and he says he felt a bit like an amateur for not solving it faster. Could have been nerves, no?

Pierre Délas has made an interview (in French)

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Another 9a 2nd ascent by Iker Pou
19 April 2010, 11:20 am

Iker Pou has made the 2nd ascent of Il Domani, 9a, at Baltzola, a mega resistance route according to him. Quite different to his previous two 9a-range 2nd ascents, Demencia senil and Victimas Pérez. Obviously this was a challenge for him, as it doesn't really suit him that well.

The all natural ~70 move route was opened by Patxi Usobiaga in 2003 and is described by Iker as an 8b+ into a 7C+ crux, followed by an 8a. He also says he found a rest Patxi didn't use and that he thinks the route, by using this, goes from hard to normal 9a.

Photo: Iker Pou on Il Domani, Pou collection

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Sweden's first 8B+
20 April 2010, 6:43 am

Lone wolf, Stefan Rasmussen, who's, more or less, single-handedly been responsible for the development of hard bouldering in the county of Småland has crowned his work with the FA of The hourglass at Björnblocket, for which he proposes 8B+. If confirmed, it's the hardest problem in Sweden, and a contender for the top spot in Scandinavia. Congrats Stefan! Great effort!

from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

UKCTV: Jack Geldard interviews MacLeod and Fawcett
21 April 2010, 7:10 am



from UKClimbing.com TV on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Firefight, 8B, by Malc Smith
21 April 2010, 6:19 pm

Malcolm Smith has added yet another hard problem at the Dumbarton boulders. Firefight, 8B, climbs the Pressure cave, then links into and finishes up Firestarter, 8A. Full story on the Stone country blog.

Sources: Stone country/UK Climbing

from Willackers on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Firefight, 8B, by Malc Smith (updated)
21 April 2010, 6:19 pm

Malcolm Smith has added yet another hard problem at the Dumbarton boulders. Firefight, 8B, climbs the Pressure cave, then links into and finishes up Firestarter, 8A. Full story on the Stone country blog.

Sources: Stone country/UK Climbing

UPDATE: He's also made the FA of Grande tour, which climbs Perfect crime extension into Saboteur, to create an 8Bish problem. It took Malc roughly 4 minutes to climb. Must be some kind of record for a boulder problem...

from Willackers on Vimeo.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

Koyamada crushes in Swizzy
23 April 2010, 5:17 am



Dai Koyamada took off on his month long trip to Switzerland about a week ago, and he's been crushing hard.

He quickly worked the all the moves of Toni Lamprecht's The Dagger, 8B+, on his first day at Cresciano and sent it on his 2nd day. He also mentions that he sort of got all the moves figured out for The story of two worlds, Graham's unrepeated "new standard for 8C" (most likely at least 8C+ by normal standards) but it sounds, like he's a little confused about where the start hold is, and I'm not sure if he's going to put any serious effort into doing the repeat. Later the same day, he went to Chironico, where he flashed Dr Pinch, 8A+. It's getting too hot in Ticino now, so Dai decided to go to Magic wood, an hour's drive to the north-east, instead.

At Magic woods, he did a fast repeat of Bernd Zangerl's New Base Line, 8B+, on his 2nd burn after working out all the moves very quickly. He had been on it briefly 6 years ago, but didn't remember much. Then on the same day, he went to check out River Bed, 8B, worked out all the moves and sent it, again on his 2nd burn.

Photo1: Dai Koyamada on The Dagger at Cresciano.

Photo 2: Dai Koyamad on New Base Line at Magic wood.

Source: TheLowDown

[comPiler]

La guerre des nerfs, the video
22 April 2010, 1:00 pm

Gérôme Pouvreau climbing. Enzo Oddo filming.

Source: Kairn

Source: TheLowDown

[Johnny Brown]

This is bullshit. When's he going to mention Nige? #nigemania

[shark]

Have you cracked open the Cristal already ?

[comPiler]

Off to Egypt
23 April 2010, 8:15 pm



I'll be off-line for a couple of weeks now, scary, I know... No idea how I'll cope, but I'll try to pull through... somehow. I don't think there'll be any updates, but you never know. So, see you in 15 days. I promise to come back stronger!

In the meantime, check out my friends at Kairn and UK Climbing

/Björn

Source: TheLowDown