[Nibile]

did you manage to film Lores one armer?

the best I could do today with 23°...

[rodma]

Fucking Awesome

[comPiler]

HATERS GONNA HATE
25 June 2012, 12:09 pm

Here is something I wrote to a friend of mine a few days ago. It's neither fun nor educated; it's very biased, it's quite violent and could sound offensive to many. I want to post it here because I believe in what I wrote, and because it's part of what I am.

I hate all the climbing that takes place outside of myself. I don't hate the people, I hate the scene (and a few people); I hate listening to the idiotic climbing lingo of the "I downgrade this route", "climbing is freedom", "this route is a gift from God" and the likes. I hate those who smoke joints and then complain they can't pull hard; I hate those who complain about being weak but don't want to train. I hate those who see a strong climber and marvel, saying "oh I wonder why he's so good?"; guess what? He fucking works hard! I hate the slash grades, I hate 8a.nu, the scandals, the gossip, the "morpho", the "nobody saw him"; I hate those who always talk about "the old school" and put themselves into it. I hate fully branded climbers under 8b. I hate those who think it's better to be good on every terrain than excellent on just one (would you choose a decathlon Olympic gold, or a 100 meters sprint one?). I hate all those who give less than 110% and then complain. I hate the hypocrisy of the false modesty "ohh, no, I'm not stronger than you. I am just more experienced!" I'd prefer to hear "ohh, no, don't try to think HOW stronger than you I am, because you just can't imagine it!" I hate undisciplined dogs let loose at the rocks, and I hate ultra-light quickdraws, and those who think they can make them jump from 7b to 8a.

I hate the "I can get you discounts there, tell them you know me". Yes, I'll tell them "I know him, and he's an asshole". Maybe this will get me a discount.

I hate rich, spoiled kids that pretend to be hard core because they sleep in the car before doing some ice climbing.

I hate those who ask for "last generation rubber" for resoles, pretending they can tell the difference: "ohh, the XSGrip is waaaay better than the XGrip, the XS sticks to everything, while the X always slides off".

I hate everything.

I am a monad.



Source: TOTOLORE

[Duma]

I hate the use of 110%

 

[andy_e]

I'm behind Lore 110% on this one. That way, I can backtrack 10% and still be 100% behind him.

[JohnM]

I hate rich

Yeah the lanky, ginger scouse get 

[Richie Crouch]

Charmed, Jon!

good rant lore 

[Nibile]

I hate the use of 110%

 

Good point Duma. I don't hate it, but I don't love it either. It's a useful stereotype, but you made me think.
Thanks!

[Nibile]

I hate rich

Yeah the lanky, ginger scouse get 

 

[Sasquatch]

I hate climbing somewhere where on the nicest day of the year there are only 6 climbers out in an area the size of Yosemite, but I love that there is no scene.

HATERS GONNA HATE
25 June 2012, 12:09 pm

I hate the "I can get you discounts there, tell them you know me". Yes, I'll tell them "I know him, and he's an asshole". Maybe this will get me a discount.

I hate rich, spoiled kids that pretend to be hard core because they sleep in the car before doing some ice climbing.



And these made me laugh! Because I know exactly what you mean.
Source: TOTOLORE

[Nibile]

anyway, don't get me wrong.
everyone is obviously free to give 1%, 5% or everything they've got. I just don't like when people ask for cheap gains. just "wanting" to be good without putting in any serious efforts.

[ShortRound]

I hate the use of 110%

 

Yep that's one of my major bug bears. Using a percentage greater than the absolute maximum to suggest that you're giving MORE than is mathematically possible is the same as saying "infinity plus 1" and opens the way for the x-factor style exageration of "giving it a million %".

Aside from that, strong rant lore.

[Nibile]

 
Eheheheh! I have a classic studies formation, latin, greek, Philosophy and the likes, and I'm perfectly comfortable with the idea of a part that's greater than the maximum, used out of context, obviously!
For a scientific mind I understand that it must really be annoying!!! Especially since it's so common.
Won't be using it again, was about to edit it, but finally left it there.
 

[andy_e]

I've a scientific mind and I don't mind 110%. It's a perfectly rational number as 110% of £1 is £1.10, that works for me. People who hate 110% are just pendants (sic).

[Fultonius]

I've a scientific mind and I don't mind 110%. It's a perfectly rational number as 110% of £1 is £1.10, that works for me. People who hate 110% are just pendants (sic).

I guess it depends if you reference maximum (100%) refers to your absolute maximum or your typical maximum.

I.e. if you normally can punt out 8B but one day, from somewhere, you manage to scrape your sorry ass up a 8B+ then, just the can you maybe claim to have put in 110% effort (or some other percentage >100%)

Whereas, if your 100% is an absolute reference, then it's physically not possible to put in 110% effort. End of. 

Personally, I think it sounds daft in the context of how much effort you put in. 





For the record, I rarely put in more than about 70% effort. Don't really train. Don;t send much and am quite happy in my punterdom. I don't expect to be able to crush 8A though...   

[Nibile]

and am quite happy

That's exactly the important thing. You don't complain or don't think that anyone stronger than you is stronger because of natural talent or luck.
I know many that think exactly this. I've heard people belittling other climbers' achievements by saying "but they trained for it", as if it were a crime or unfair.

[galpinos]

I've a scientific mind .....

I thought you were a Geologist?

[slackline]

I've a scientific mind .....

I thought you were a Geologist?

 

[andy_e]

Yeah, geology's nothing to do with science is it 

[slackline]

Yeah, geology's nothing to do with science is it 

Its a field of science, but I'd imagine the scope for experiments where the investigator controls certain factors and manipulates others is more limited than other areas of science.

Besides which a statistical mindset is of more use than a scientific one when dealing with numbers, and many scientists struggle with statistics.  This isn't far from what I deal with regularly....



The worst bit is "my grant is due tomorrow" 

[galpinos]

Yeah, geology's nothing to do with science is it 

I was teasing. Maybe I should have added a winking smiley. At least Slackers got it!

(I'm an engineer so I can't talk)

[Stubbs]

I've a scientific mind and I don't mind 110%.

[Oldmanmatt]

The worst bit is "my grant is due tomorrow" 

The best bit is...

"Please go away!"

Though as an Engineer, the only relevant question is...
"Does it work?"

[fried]

Just a minor point for your English studies, the use of '110%' has to be preceded by 'the fabled' or else.

[comPiler]

STICKING AT IT!
9 July 2012, 3:35 pm

Not much climbing done as of late, mainly due to boiling temps and to my left wrist which, despite getting better, is not healed.

I'm back to basics, as the video shows. A nice evening in the garage, here in the hood.



Source: TOTOLORE