[Fiend]

Started early as I'll be away and I don't want Shark to nibble my knuckles.

Post about POWER 

Goals:
Get sponsored by Metolius Super Chalk.
See if the mankini look will catch on in Scotland.

This week:
Mon - n/a - gayflu
Tue - n/a - gayflu
Wed - n/a - gayflu
Thu - n/a - gayflu / sauna and stretch.
Fri - 2 hours steady bouldering at Dumby, weak as fuck, finger fine though.
Sat - n/a - curry
Sun - out tradding who knows how it will go.

Comments:
Ill this week. Not much to say and can't really complain, just had to rest. Finger felt a lot better and was fine at Dumby despite it feeling cold, struggling to warm up, and doing some pockety and crimpy stuff. Still syked. Haven't run for ages tho and think I should try to fit in a bit more of that.

[Nibile]

this past week saw the beginning of a new long term training period. nothing too sophisticated at the moment, the aim is fingers and bouldering.
 
mon. fingerboarding (4th day on after the previous climbing weekend, fingers not too bad but then i was exhausted and could barely put my shoes on)
tue. rest (not enough)
wed. fingerboarding (again not too bad on the fingers, absolutely unable to climb later, so stuck to footless bouldering on the 60° wall on big holds, 9 moves x 4 reps)
tue. recovery session (jugs on vertical wall, wasted time)
fri. bouldering (took ages to warm up, was on a low calories crisis. ate, then felt good, on the 45° and 60° wall, did far too much in the end)
sat. bouldering outside (easy day, nothing hard but feeling ok)
sun. rest, food, wine

comments: 7 days on out of 9 days is too much for me at the moment. pure power is low, and volume must be little. anyway finger is still not ok, but seems to be improving, i keep beasting it with kindness, can't bone down on small crimps.
on the fingerboard i did the following: mon. repeaters on good slopey edge; on smaller slopey edge; on front two and middle two; a total of 13 series; tue. repeaters on smaller slopey edge (front three); front two and middle two; a total of 18 series.

ciao.

[Monolith]

Monday 29th March - N/A
Tuesday 30th March - Ran and powerpulls/deadhangs. Reworked a routine on the fingerboard for basic power and static gains. Felt really good and very light and explosive oddly.
Wednesday 31st March - N/A
Thursday 01 April N/A
Friday 02 April N/A
Saturday 03 April Powerpulls on fingerboard. 40 min session before heading out
Sunday 04 April Going to Ricardo Villalobos tonight. Very happy.

Comments:

Training twice a week isn't as preferable as three or four times but it's keeping me just above ticking over and I'm hoping for three good sessions this week or one session and two days consecutive climbing on new rock.

I'm amazed I'm so motivated without pretty much ever climbing at the moment but I know what I need to do in terms of reacquiring basic power and lockoff strength. Nice to be off for easter.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Fiend ( knacker nobbling is more my style than a knuckle nibbling)

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight 11.3-4 (last week 11.4-6)

M.
T. PM Phyiso (John Ostro) for back
W.
T. Early AM Yoga
F. Malham. Cold. Oak & Baboo wet. Beset by indecision. After warmup tried to O/S (Hindsight?) Wasted Youth but fell off crux. Redpointed it. Good route - much better than it looks Had 3 goes on Raindogs. Would like to repoint! this as originally did it with 2nd bolt clipped with the right hand finish about 10 years ago.
S.Lunch Jogged/walked around Higgar area with Pip.Took Tom and Poppy out later to Birchens - both did really well. Back in time for Dr Who.
S.Junior rugby festival at Nottingham all day. Tried not to pig out.

Got back to target weight again. Had an easy week this week as a sore back is usually an indication that I've overdone it. Out to Malham again tomorrow.

[Three Nine]

GOALS: 7c onsight, another 8a, 7Bs, strong for Europe, rank higher than Shark on 8a.nu

M 45 power 2 hours, bit tired from weekend
T Cardio 30mins run
W 2 hours volume bouldering at commercial wall in Oxford, managed a v4
T 1.5 hours bouldering at commercial wall (elbow sore), 45 power 1.5 hours (elbow better)
F Cardio 30 mins run (skin infection!)
S As friday
S Portland routes, climbed worse than i have in ages, failed on a 6c+. What's happening to me? Anyone else have days like this?

Terrible week really for climbing! Got to take the rough with the smooth i guess. Fed up with the weather. Comforted by Mcleod's most recent blog post about failure. I am really good at failure at least!

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A
Weight 13st 10lbs (+ 4lbs on last week - not bad considering).

M: Hangover. This is going to be tough. Full day snowboarding. A stag in a mankini on the slopes and dressed as Heidi in the evening. A ridiculous amount of alcohol and possibly the most expensive strip joint ever.  rating.
T: Possibly the worse hangover I've ever had. Miss breakfast so it's Milka chocolate and coffee. Half day snowboarding with a body close to giving up. Lots of beer to bring me round. 
W: Probably got a hangover but compared to the day before I feel fine, which is a nice change. Full day snowboarding and feeling better. Lots of beer again. This Bulgarian brew is starting to get on my nerves. It's tasteless cooking lager at best. 
T: 3 beer rated evening seems to be working. No hangover. Full day snowboarding. Best day yet. Good conditions and plenty of little jumps and drop offs and carving good turns. Lots of cooking lager again. 
F: Mild head throb. Half day snowboarding. Conditions not so good. Too slushy. No beer.
S: Fly home from Bulgaria. Sleep.
S: Feel rough and snooze all day. Start to feel normal again.

Not quite your usual power week although I'm hoping the complete change from the usual will have a positive effect. Fingers and arms etc should be pretty well rested. Back on it tomorrow.

[lagerstarfish]

Goal: font 7c

weight 14st 7lb
body fat 28%

Tuesday: poor skin. dozen auto belay routes at gym followed by 3 sets of (1k run in 5 mins, 10 pullups, 10 dips, 20 pressups, 10 dead lifts @ body weight, no rests), feel like Robocop
Thursday: same as Tuesday, but faster. Feel like Terminator
Sunday: Easter egg hunt, good meat heavy buffet, chase kids round playground pretending to be scary gorilla, chocolate fountain in the evening.

[Charles]

Short term goal: Climb 7a every day on Font trip (End of March)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Get fit for Mallorca > Powerband (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Gonna start from the Sunday as it was Font trip this week.

Sunday - Buthiers: Raining. Did a 6b or something. Tried Nemesis and the 7a next to it. Failed.
Monday - Roche Aux Sabots: 5 7a's. Flashed 2. Get in!
Tuesday - L'Elephant: Tried a 7a+. Fell off top move twice. Tried Le Coeur then it rained and stopped play.
Wednesday - Bas Cuvier: 4 7a's. Flashed 1. Also did Carnage and Biceps Mou. YYFY! 
Thursday - Isatis: 2 7a+.
Friday - Rained.
Saturday - Cul de Chien: Got to the jug on Le Toit de Cul de Chien but top out was wet (Dave topped out in wet though so I'm just a pansy). Tried hard on Arabesque but rain stopped play. 
Sunday - Home again. Another week would've been nice.

For a first Font trip I thought it was brilliant. Awesome rock, awesome atmosphere - just a shame about the changeable weather this week. Really pleased with my performance. Didn't quite manage a 7a every day but on the days of good weather I really got stuck in. All the training leading up to the trip paid off.

Ticked several problems that were on my list of things to do and added probably an equal number to it.

Plan now is to try get out bouldering a lot in the next two weeks to capitalise on current good form. Then it's time to start thinking about Mallorca and get route fit. Got some projects at Kilnsey that will act as short term goals.

[roddersm]

2010 Goals:

Trad: Onsight lots of E2s (including left wall if i get to wales), several E3s and possibly a couple of E4s, Boulder 7a+/b , sport onsight 7a (minimum) . Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

LTG's: Trad Onsight E5 (including Right Wall) , Sport: Redpoint 8a, Onsight 7b+. Boulder: I'm probably too short for Brad pitt but maybe 7b+/7C would be nice (Midnight lightning maybe..): Big Wall, Climb the Nose on El Cap. General: Climb lots off classic routes/problems and get stronger and fitter.

Mon  Rest. Tired after running too much. 
Tue   Rest. Snow blizzards outside and can't face going running.
Wed  Rest. As tuesday.
Thur  Climbing wall session. 1st session in over 2 weeks since injuring my finger. Manage about 1.5 hrs of bouldering with
my finger really heavily taped and avoiding anything crimpy with my left hand. Go to the pub for 3 pints of guinness. 
Fri     Ran 45 min approx 6 miles. Drink some wine Despite being hung over from the 3 pints from yesterday  .
Sat    2 hr session in ozone climbing wall in belfast doing problems up to Font 6b+ with finger heavily taped. Body feels surprisingly strong despite very little climbing in 2 weeks, maybe due to all the running? Watch Ulster loose to Cardiff at Ravenhill.
Sun   Bouldering at fairhead 3 hrs or so. Feel a bit tired and am wary of my injured finger as its pretty crimpy here and this is where I got injured. Do a few laps on a 5c and 6c which I've done before. Work a few of the moves on a few 7as but don't feel confident on pulling hard on the holds with my left hand. Do the 6c prob a couple of times again and head home.

Overall glad to be back doing some climbing after fearing I'd be out for months after injuring my finger. Felt a bit rusty after 2 weeks out but glad that I can climb on big holds with my finger heavily taped. It's still a bit sore and I'm too scared to pull down hard on holds but at least I'm back doing some climbing. If It can survive another few wall sessions hopefully I will be able to start training harder in a week or so but will be cautious for now and stick to big holds and stuff that I can do.   

[Davo]

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Double fingerboard session (Morning and then evening) both at 5.5 kgs.

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Cave, managed Lou Ferrino. Great problem. Worked connecting moves on The Wire.

Friday: Cave, cold and grim in there. Did beginning of Broken Heart again to relearn it. Worked In Hell start, did all moves but linking felt desperate. Tried Trigger Cut and made a little progress.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Burbage, initially get rained off but then it turns good. Do The Nose, Breakfast, Rocket Man and Mermaid. All stellar problems. Found Breakfast absolutely desperate. Also yet again get completely shut down by West Side Story.

A difficult week that ended well. Was meant to be off to Font on Wednesday but Van melted down on Tuesday. So trip was cancelled, weather completely crapped out and ended up at the Cave. Normally I am psyched and feel love for the Cave but in this case it ran a poor second to Font! After I got over the depression the week eventually ended well with a great day out at Burbage.

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and boulder V8
Mon: Work in wife's garden, dig numerous holes for new plants; time ran out before I could manage a workout, tired from hole-digging
Tues: Drink cup a coffee in pm and get a good 40 min session on Moon fingerboard.
Wed: fingers stiff from Tues, but got lite weight workout in am and 20 min run in pm
Th: go to Sand Rock and work on cleaning graffiti off the rocks, do two easy climbs with wife and get spanked on a 7b
Fri: back to Sand Rock, clean more graffiti and only have time for one route, onsight 7a+
Sat: first 5K race, rain and thunder, finish in 21.36 min, felt good
Sun: Easter service at church, then to Yellow Bluff, do 4 routes up to 6c
 
Felt good this week, kinda' bummed about the 7b, but think I was using wrong seq., will go back and try again

[chillax]

Medium term: Onsight Fair Head E3, boulder 7a consistently, one armer on each arm
Long term: don't be a weak shit

Mon: Can't remember.
Tues: Travel 2/3 the length of the country. Get home knackered. Do a McGinley.
Wed: Wrecked. Do work.
Thurs: Do some bouldering and a lot of exploring in waterford. See a lot of stuff. Good day.
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Couple of hours on a rope on a potential headpoint project. Will probably go, but not soon. Will be hard and a bit scary for me (oh for that extra inch and a half.....). Good session on a board in dublin afterwards. Knackered driving home (hour and a half). Had to pull in after an hour and have a kip. Forgotten how tiring it is to drive an hour and a half to get somewhere, try hard all day, then drive the same back. Was doing that at least 3 times a week for most of last year!
Sun: Lots of pullups and pushups. Hung the big edge on my old fingerboard one armed on each arm for the first time. Nice to see some improvement.

The plan for next week is as much bouldering and routing in Wicklow as my skin can take. Would like to do that 6b arete by the fin in glendo. As well as finishing an assignment, and starting the lit review for my masters. This summer is going to be bloody hectic!

[webbo]

STG
recover from yesterdays shoulder crunch.
Mon shoulder sore theraband exs
Tue shoulder a little better theraband exs
Wed rockcity repeating stuff double circuit of the harder problems i can do.shoulder ok theraband exs.
Thu theraband exs shoulder ok after yesterday.
Fri cycling 3 hours 12mins windy and cold.felt battered afterwards.theraband exs.
Sat bouldering rockcity.managed a problem i've not been able to link.repeated most other problems.cycling 1hour 30 mins.theraband exs.
Sun bouldering stanton moor nice day out various things including what now seems to be chicken ginger 7a.
not a bad week given i thought i'd shagged my shoulder.generally it keeps improving but now clicks.maybe i should go on the stage as the incredibly clicking man what with ankles,knees,back,hips,elbows,wrists,fingers,kneck and now shoulders.
still appear to be getting fatter.

[Richie Crouch]

Mon: Rest. In work all day with 3 hours sleep after getting back from font at 5.30am
Tues: Volume session in the crypt. Fail to link the 2 reds, punter.
Wed: Rest
Thurs: Warmup then have a nice reintroductory campus session laddering on L/M/S rungs in sets of 6 (3 each arm leading), 1-4 touches on med rungs (3 sets of 6 reps (3 each side without stepping off)). Finish with some leg raises around the clock with feet together and some pressups.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest
Sun: Burbage with Davo, John and Ed. Manage to fluke a flash of the nose and breakfast thanks to heavy beta. Fail to get very far on Famous Grouse due to greasy crouch butter hands but make better headway on West Side getting to holding the 3rd left sidepull and lh crimp and moving my feet about not knowing what to do next. Struggle on Mermaid and watch Davo get a double french blow in. Dismayed! Liquid chalk comes out and it solves the problem. Got close on rocketman but no cigar. Finished off doing Banana Finger, direct and left arete. All nice problems, got knackered topping them all out and having to run round and down again each time!

Not feeling the power today... more the full body aches and heading the cave in an hour for an imminent 

[k2ted]

STG - crimp on ma left for 1st time since dec. Finger heavily taped when climbing, start reducing tape next week. finger now ready for 3 sessions per wk, poss finger board sess.

mon - rest
tues - boulder uk, did load of probs upto v4.
weds- rest
thurs -
fri - rest
sat - bouldered at awesome walls, lpool. managed few v3/4's.
sun - rest/ walk around helsby.

[andy popp]

STG: do various Cheshire projects mainly

Mon: got back from States about midday, knackered
Tues: Horrendous amounts of work/housework have built up, still knackered
Wed: actually have to go into work (I know, its a hard life)
Thurs: family stuff
Fri: have had lots of little back/neck niggles since being shunted mid-March, really aggravate it in the am looking round to reverse. Go on board in pm, very constrained by cricked back but still OK
Sat: family stuff
Sun: family stuff

Having plateaued really badly last month I've now had: one v light week in prep for going away; one week away; one v. light week due to business/knackeredness. Time to get back on it I think - though I need to give careful thought to still making sure I do something different. Looks like I should get to Wales in decent weather at the end of the week.

[duncan]

STG: E3; El Cap.
LTG: E5
M: Assisted pull-ups and lock-offs. Shoulder stability stuff.
T: Assisted pull-ups and lock-offs. Shoulder stability stuff.
W: Physio.: happy with progress,
T: Assisted pull-ups and lock-offs. Shoulder stability stuff.
F: The Arch: 20 minutes ARC-ing / getting used to plastic again.
S: Rest
S: Burbages: Trad. HVS type stuff, full-on hot-aches.  Bouldering. Much skin lost, muscles ached severely, nothing broken, hurrah!

Good training week, but major set-back regarding this year’s main goal with loss of Yosemite rope-gun.  Various people tentatively interested but either unavailable in early June [date of XX(large number)th birthday] or self-confessed not ideal offwidth grunting material.  Anyone interested in a slow trip up The Salathe?

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 60kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A 7A+ boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M: Weighted deadhangs, then some arm work on rock rings
T: Bouldered at Kendal Wall. Was also their prize giving evening and I found that I'd won some kit for coming 2nd in their rope ladder 
W: Deadhangs with additional weight, Theraband exercises and arm work on Rock Rings. Looked at and agreed to buy a 1977 VW Camper...
T: Bouldering and Routes at Harrogate. Tried to redistribute funds for camper purchase but money hadn't transferred from savings so my wife and I emptied every other account we own to enable the bankers draft to be drawn up as we were picking it up the next day. Scary!
F: Rest day. Picked up camper and bumbled it home feeling pretty chuffed!
S: Found some money from somewhere to tax the van and headed down to North Wales for the weekend. Took a long time but was quite a chilled out experience to only be able to do 60mph! Raining when we got there so did some bouldering at PYB wall. Good session actually.
S: Trad at Tremadog - only up to E1 but was an enjoyable day and in the sun it was actually warm which was nice!

Scary start to this week as mortgage payment bounced due to lack of funds - oops!  I'm sure the 'lost' money from our savings will appear eventually...

[Andy F]

Goals - Climb of the Century, Grooved Arete

Mon - rest
Tues - was meant to go to Malham but the terrible weather forecast meant a session at the Broughton temple. Felt ok given I'd not bouldered much recently, did a few 6b+'s, which was good.
Wed - Beastmaker, 40 min session
Thurs - rest
Fri - Malham. Back on COTC, but freezing wind meant little progress
Sat - Beastmaker, light 25 min session
Sun - Family
Mon - Malham. Damp and uninspiring conditions, so didn't try COTC. Did tick Chocolate Logger fairly quickly, should have got it first RP, but took 3. Nice little route, worth doing.

[nai]

Goal: Font 7C.  Be fit enough to climb volume 5 of 6 days in Font early May.

M - nowt
T - Experimented with Encores, managed 8 sets of 7-10 reps using various size holds with up to 7kg added.  Destroyed.
W - Try 2-4-6-8-10-12-10-8-6-4-2 pullups, minute rest in between.  Do ok, generally manage an extra one on each out set.
T - Feel really good. Leave work in dry, blustery weather and hurtle toward Higgar.  Rain starts at Grindleford.  Go home and do six sets encores on a Rock Ring with 2kg added then three sets of one armers later when the pump's subsided.
F-S wife's sister and family visiting so no chance to climb, kidcentric days out followed by food and drinks in the evenings.  Did manage 2-4-6-etc pullups & one armers in a couple of 10 minute sessions on Saturday evening but then had a curry and five pints...
 
Weekend came at exactly the wrong time, I'd been feeling good, made some gains and psyche was high.  Now my back's fooked again, I've put on a kg and feel wiped out.  At least the forecast is dry so there's a chance of touching rock later this week.

[andybfreeman]

Goals 7B in the forest, 7c route

M - rest
T - rest
W - problems session at TCA after work. felt good after 2 days of rest and ticked off a good chunk of the new yellow hard (?) circuit
Th - active rest, easy problems at TCA with a couple of guys from work
F - drove down to London to spend the weekend with my bro. hit the castle for long session of routes then bouldering. on sighted 6c, did more routes up to 7a then bouldered. wildly inconsitent grading so got spat off a V4 and V5 but worked the moves on a V7. finished session with 8+ minutes of hell. 4 mins of pull ups on big campus rungs 20 sec on 10 rest follwed by 4 mins of deadhangs on medium rungs follwed by push ups to failure (58). needed feet and then support to get through the 4 minutes.
S - headed to Greenwich to catch up with old friends. 2.5 hour session at the arch. on sighted a couple of V5s and ticked one V6. worked the moves on another couple of V6s and a V7 bu didn't link. returnined to greenwich for lots of great Vietnamese food + plenty of  followed by sofa sleep
Su - feeling rough from yesterday but met simon at Westway at lunchtime. did the WIBL boulder problems (flashed 18/20) and worked a couple of left over V6/7 west vs east problems. finished at 6 absolutely spent but had a great meal at my bro's restaurant in the evening.
M - back to the castle with my brother. felt wank but tried some routes up to 7a with him. Simon then had a work climbing party so i bouldered on my own and manged to link a v7 upstairs that I'd tried on Friday. super leased to get it done but felt complete;y wasted when i left!

Weight averaging 68.kg for the week. not bad at all given the amount I've eaten!

A great week for training but with hindsight 6 days on maybe too much though. rest tonight then board session on wed?

[Stubbs]

Goals:
Zoo York
Get in shape for Swizzy in the summer
Suffolk's best boulderer

M: Beastmaker: repeaters, assisted 1 armers, 1 arm lock offs
T: nowt
W: Beastmaker: Repeaters and core
T: Drive to Leeds, light sesh at Depot to remember how to climb (been 2 weeks since actual climbing and that was at a wall) felt completely unco.  Drink lots and lots of brown beer.
F: Cliff and Caley: Felt in some of the best shape I ever have at the cliff, repeated the two hardest problems I've done there first go. Prob should have got on ZY but friends were psyched for other stuff.
S: Depot, about 3 hrs, felt pretty good
S: Earl, windy as owt, not psyched. Managed the desperate 6C by Sloping Beauty, probably the hardest problem I've ever done.  Sack it to Caley, have a little snooze, do some classics and repeat Secret 7th and ZY stand. Too tired to link ZY.

Pretty good week in terms of climbing volume and performance, should have really got on ZY on Friday, but I'm not bothered about letting my projects dictate other people's days.

[tomtom]

STG: 7B+

After a great week in week 7-- a slow week..

M. Nothing
T. 3 hour session at the Depot. OK ish but spoiled by pulling finger (actually muscle in arm not finger) on final problem (when I'd nearly packed up..)
W. Nothing
T. Nothing
F. Nothing - ate lots
S. Nothing - ate lots (including excellent dressed crab salad)
S. Nothing - ate lots

Early prognosis for week 9 = fat 

[tommytwotone]

LTG - Font 7b by end of year, GNR in sub-2 hour time

M - Nowt.
T - Board session after long day at work - felt awful, climbed well. Go figure.
W - Gym session at work on lunch - 10k bike, 1k row.
T - Couple of pints on lunch, then out with the missus in evening, then bumped into some workmates in town.Messy.
F - Writeoff pretty much. Knocked off Sun crossword in 4.5 mins in coffee shop.
S - Cliff session. Felt like I was getting somewhere on a damp DWR, iced Wall Of Horrors start 2nd go.
S - Up early, drive to Peak, easy day soloing. Couldn't get psyched to lead anything hard.

So, bouldering - getting there, I'm feeling a lot stronger, especially on roof stuff. My cardio's nowhere at the mo, but I'm gonna pick that up in the coming weeks.

[Three Nine]

then board session on wed?

amen brother