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Last Great Boulder Projects (Read 17432 times)

Adam Lincoln

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Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 12:35:31 pm
Okay, not had this for a while. (I think)

In the UK

Go on then...

jonP

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#1 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 12:39:36 pm
There are stacks in Yorkshire.  The arete at Brandrith for starters.

Pantontino

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#2 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 12:44:45 pm
Steep wall (with overlap) left of Isla de Encantada, Trowbarrow - an utterly gobsmacking line!

The Arch at Slipstones

The direct start to NTBTA - sorry Dave, had to bring this up again.

Chris Davies' project wall at secret venue close to Carreg Hylldrem - I haven't been yet, but the photo I saw looked stunning.

The wall right of Monty Python at Kyloe-in-the-Woods

There's a few others I could mention, but I'll get shot if I say what they are.

Dave Flanagan

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#3 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 12:49:50 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Okay, not had this for a while. (I think)

In the UK

Go on then...




Glenmacnass


Glendasan

Plenty more...

jonP

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#4 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 12:52:58 pm
At Earl, the big arete near Grape Nut, the wall right of Lager Lager Lager & the wall left of Underworld.

The arete at Clattering Stones (Widdop).

The big slab at Earl Seat.

The arete at Whitehouses.

Of course, some of these might have been done already.

ian h

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#5 last great problems
January 07, 2004, 12:55:46 pm
direct start to chimera high rox,

jonP

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#6 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 12:59:59 pm
The wall right of Desert Island Arete, Earl.

Several unclimbed lines at Calf Crag, but they're all crap.

And there must be a few things lurking at Brimham.

AndyR

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#7 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:03:09 pm
Quote from: "Glen Dale"


Glendasan



Had a look at that Glendasan one - is that the rightwards sloping arete with a slopey drop beneath it - always seems to take drainage when I'm up there? Have you tried it??

AndyR

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#8 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:06:30 pm
Quote from: "Glen Dale"

Plenty more...


Actually, come to think of it, that big prow at the left end of Lough Dan is a prime candidate, and there's more big prows than you can shake a stick at in glenmac.

What are your feelings about draining the sludge pool beneath *the* arete in glenmac? It's not like the area is short of boggy pools.......

dave

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#9 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:07:30 pm
Some of the most striking i can think of:

Impossible Groove - Burbage South
That Steep Big Dyno at Burbage West
That Blank Wall Up Behind The Terrace at Burbage North
That Big Wall at Lawrencefield - could be a boulder problem if you have very big nuts (i and don't mean for protection).

Dave Flanagan

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#10 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:08:33 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Glen Dale"


Glendasan



Had a look at that Glendasan one - is that the rightwards sloping arete with a slopey drop beneath it - always seems to take drainage when I'm up there? Have you tried it??


I think so. Have tried it, ss will be hard.

dave

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#11 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:10:05 pm
P.s. oh yeah in yorkshire the most obvious is underworld without using the cheat block.

and i've got an almost entirely undeveloped limestone crag in south yorkshire - a 12 ft roof about 40m long, 20ft high.

Dave Flanagan

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#12 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:11:20 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Glen Dale"

Plenty more...


Actually, come to think of it, that big prow at the left end of Lough Dan is a prime candidate, and there's more big prows than you can shake a stick at in glenmac.

What are your feelings about draining the sludge pool beneath *the* arete in glenmac? It's not like the area is short of boggy pools.......


All for draining the sludge pool, might be up there on Saturday. Are you thinking of trying for the second ascent?

Have you seen http://www.theshortspan.com/loughdan? Don't
shown anyone as it is in Oustsider this month. What prow?

Big Frank

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#13 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:14:33 pm
I saw this and thought straight away of the Brandrith arete.

Brimham, how about that high classic looking arete I pointed out near Lovers leap the other week, that looks necky very necky indeed.

In fact there are boulders there with nothing on you just have to find them. Like the Junkyard Boulder http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/brimham__junkyard.jpg
one problem, scope for more. certainly on the field side
(Can I point out the two unclimbed boulders above this area are in the Green Burial area and as such climbing could prove to be sensative,)

Panto' mentioned the Arch at Slipstones, last time I was there it looked like it may have seen some action.

Adam Lincoln

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#14 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:26:00 pm
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Steep wall (with overlap) left of Isla de Encantada, Trowbarrow - an utterly gobsmacking line!
Indeed and no that far away from what i hear. He does it on a top rope so he can get the most from each go!
The Arch at Slipstones
Not been

The direct start to NTBTA - sorry Dave, had to bring this up again.
Bit weird this one, not really a great line

Chris Davies' project wall at secret venue close to Carreg Hylldrem - I haven't been yet, but the photo I saw looked stunning.
Yup, looks pretty ace!

The wall right of Monty Python at Kyloe-in-the-Woods
Will be very impressive when it goes!

There's a few others I could mention, but I'll get shot if I say what they are.

Bonjoy

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#15 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:31:58 pm
Quote from: "dave"

and i've got an almost entirely undeveloped limestone crag in south yorkshire - a 12 ft roof about 40m long, 20ft high.

 I rememer seeing something like that out near either Roche Abbey or Pleasey Vale. Very flat horizontal roof, quite black.
  Also did some good bouldering of a similair style on a limestone crag near a canal just of the A1 near Doncaster (Sprotborough).
  As for good hard projects:
   Super steep arete right of Purple Haze - Rivelin.
   Shallow groove left of Green-room Slap - Stanage
   Line left of Mother's pride - Mother's Pet
   Direct finish to Pat's Roof - Rowtor
   Groove/Arete right of Spare Rib - Stanton

AndyR

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#16 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:33:16 pm
Quote from: "Glen Dale"

All for draining the sludge pool, might be up there on Saturday. Are you thinking of trying for the second ascent?

Have you seen http://www.theshortspan.com/loughdan? Don't
shown anyone as it is in Oustsider this month. What prow?


Yep - am on my own this weekend, so will hopefully get out both days.  Ah yes, I'd love to believe that it was done by a polish dude in the 50's (or whatever it was), bit I seriously think it's pretty hard - am sceptical! Will be out with spade tucked into bouldering mat!

The high arete with slopey top out on the first boulder at the far left hand end of LD - or did MO'D do this??

dave

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#17 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:35:53 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"

 I rememer seeing something like that out near either Roche Abbey or Pleasey Vale. Very flat horizontal roof, quite black.


shhhhh, keep it down!

I recon theres stuff to go there but you'll need a stepladder to clean the roof really. me and Paz have done a couple of problems on the less steep part to the right of the main roof, but nowt harder than V4ish.

If you ever decide to go back there and develop it let me know, i'm mad keen. Dangerous Dave first told me about it so i though the crag could be named in his honour on a gaelic tip, called "Craig David".

Bonjoy

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#18 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:37:47 pm
Just remembered
  Superdirect start to Boothill up arete - Cratcliffe
  Awesome dyno project  - Far right end of Turning-stone edge

Dave Flanagan

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#19 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:38:04 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"

Yep - am on my own this weekend, so will hopefully get out both days.  Ah yes, I'd love to believe that it was done by a polish dude in the 50's (or whatever it was), bit I seriously think it's pretty hard - am sceptical! Will be out with spade tucked into bouldering mat!


The trail of the Andre is cold - most of those lads are brown bread!
PM me your number and I text you my plans on Friday.

Quote from: "AndyR"

The high arete with slopey top out on the first boulder at the far left hand end of LD - or did MO'D do this??


This is still undone as far as I know.

dave

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#20 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:39:22 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Just remembered
  Superdirect start to Boothill up arete - Cratcliffe
 


that was brushed up when we were there in september - has it not been done then? is it a sitter?

Bonjoy

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#21 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:44:58 pm
Quote from: "dave"


If you ever decide to go back there and develop it let me know, i'm mad keen. Dangerous Dave first told me about it so i though the crag could be named in his honour on a gaelic tip, called "Craig David".

Word!
 Will have to do a raid over there sometime. Often dry over there when the peak is wet. Also just remembered another crag over there, brilliant thing, like cragx with a few more holds, sadly its in someones garden, but it has a few bolt-on holds on it, so you never know, it might be a climber-friendly household!

AndyR

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#22 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:45:50 pm
Quote from: "Glen Dale"

The trail of the Andre is cold - most of those lads are brown bread!
PM me your number and I text you my plans on Friday.

Quote from: "AndyR"

The high arete with slopey top out on the first boulder at the far left hand end of LD - or did MO'D do this??


This is still undone as far as I know.


Not sure what pm means but I'll mail you my mobile no!

Yep - that's the one - great line but deffo scarey finish - only tried it when I was on my own and didn't fancy crawling back to the car - plenty more at Lough Dan to do as well - did you call that nice V1/2 Karma? Good problem!

Bonjoy

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#23 Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:47:16 pm
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Just remembered
  Superdirect start to Boothill up arete - Cratcliffe
 


that was brushed up when we were there in september - has it not been done then? is it a sitter?

 Haven't been on it for yonks, it may have been done, i've never heard if it has. Zaf was trying it for a while, from a standing start.

Dave Flanagan

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#24 Re: Last Great Boulder Projects
January 07, 2004, 01:57:20 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"

Not sure what pm means but I'll mail you my mobile no!


]

Quote from: "AndyR"

Yep - that's the one - great line but deffo scarey finish - only tried it when I was on my own and didn't fancy crawling back to the car - plenty more at Lough Dan to do as well - did you call that nice V1/2 Karma? Good problem!


Not worth a Joe Simpson. The landing ok with 2 pads. Good for some airtime though.

 

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