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any beta on the pinch sheep pen boulders??? (Read 3698 times)

gruffalo

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is there a couple of ways to tackle the pinch??

Drew

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Start both hands on the good edges/rail (my memory may be failing me), right foot on the good edge low down. Throw out to the wide pinch hold, and squeeze! I get my hand in such a position that it cuts the base of my thumb if I try it too often. High left foot onto the goodish foothold (it might not be as good as I remember), and paste the right foot onto a slightly polished, smeary nubbin quite low down. Push off the nubbin really hard, and try to get lots of weight onto the left foothold, and jump off of it. Launch for the top and slap as hard as possible, remembering to suck it all up once you hold it.

PM me your email, and I'll send you a video of my mate doing it.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2010, 08:41:46 pm by Drew »

gruffalo

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###############   nice one thanks!!!
« Last Edit: March 29, 2010, 09:42:30 am by dave »

Jim

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never post your email on a forum.
INCOMING!!!!!!!! spam

Pantontino

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Not sure why this is in the chuffing beta section, but here goes:

I found the key to the problem is the angle at which you hold the pinch. I spent a session falling off the move for the lip, but without any success. Musing on my repeated failure I realised that I was dislodging my grip as I travelled up past the pinch, so I decided to try an exaggerated high wrist position (i.e. similar grip, but more horizontal and arm a bit higher, with wrist bent to accomodate).

Did it first go like that. Happy man.  8)

chummer

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I think it's all in where you put your feet; on a tiny little spikey thing if I remember rightly, then making sure you really trust your foot and push off nice and hard. There is a rock over way using a little cpimp in the groove which is easier but misses the point entirely.

nodder

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Jump more

Paul B

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I seem to remember getting in some kind of feint Egyptian and then exploding out of it and being surprised by just how good the top was. I think the correct footholds seem to scream at you to use them.

gruffalo

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Yep I can hold the pinch need to try it when I am fresh I think :-\

c.j.d.

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I agree with Nodder - pull more.

 

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