[joeb]

I spend a lot of time on a board training and not so much actually on the real stuff itself. I think I am quite weak in my thighs especially driving off of high feet. Does anyone have any good advice for improving strength without bulk as i used to run a lot and it has taken me several years to lose size in my legs. Am thinking squat thrusts and high reps, but am sure someone on here has a good routine ?

[slackline]

[tomtom]

I spend a lot of time on a board training and not so much actually on the real stuff itself. I think I am quite weak in my thighs especially driving off of high feet. Does anyone have any good advice for improving strength without bulk as i used to run a lot and it has taken me several years to lose size in my legs. Am thinking squat thrusts and high reps, but am sure someone on here has a good routine ?

Pistols...
http://www.powerathletesmag.com/pages/pistols.htm

use the ukb search - theres plenty else on them there... before Slackers LMGTFY's it 

[clm]

try reading in dim light/ without glasses/ small font. All shoud help a bit.

[lagerstarfish]

try reading in dim light/ without glasses/ small font. All shoud help a bit.

you taking the pith out of the way he thpeakth?

[erm, sam]

If you have a board, can't you set movements that will train what you are poor at?
Getting stronger thighs via isolated training won't help you coordinate the hip direction, leg pushing, foot staying on hold and keeping tight after latching hold; all components of a good thigh push..

[SA Chris]

try reading in dim light/ without glasses/ small font. All shoud help a bit.

you taking the pith out of the way he thpeakth?

I thought a thigh wath when you ecthale heavily?

[JamesD]

It's probably worth training the other parts of your leg too, i'm getting really into wobble board squats recently with medicine balls or other weights, they will probably help you build up to one legged squats too, or pistols (is this some new trendy name for them?).
Other than that look up some basic plyometric stuff, quite useful for climbing/bouldering, and good in combination with stuff like squats deadlifts etc.

[SA Chris]

Just be very cautious about knackering your knees doing things like pistols, esp if you have any history of injuries.

[JamesD]

Just be very cautious about knackering your knees doing things like pistols, esp if you have any history of injuries.

Indeed, not something I would recommend to someone just getting into strength training, personally, although they're ok once you get up to a decent base level of strength, but there are better exercises, such as ass to grass overhead barbell squats on a wobble board, now that is goooooooood shit.

[joeb]

Am liking the wobble board advice as the wife bought one recently for ankle recovery. My knees don't enjoy the pistols too much and am not sure they are that effective for climbing due to the linear nature of movement ? but will probably be proved wrong here. I agree that doing moves requiring leg drives is very important so will take that advice on the chin and try and set something along these lines; just wanted some exercises though to tag on to a session to make sure i am properly nailing the legs.

[JamesD]

Am liking the wobble board advice as the wife bought one recently for ankle recovery. My knees don't enjoy the pistols too much and am not sure they are that effective for climbing due to the linear nature of movement ? but will probably be proved wrong here. I agree that doing moves requiring leg drives is very important so will take that advice on the chin and try and set something along these lines; just wanted some exercises though to tag on to a session to make sure i am properly nailing the legs.

Good leg exercises to do to strengthen your power output:

Squats
Leg extensions
Wobble board stuff (as mentioned before)
Overhead barbell squats
Deadlifts (done on seperate days to squats)

Deadlifts are also great for strengthening your lower back, rear delts, and traps, all of which are useful when bouldering/climbing.

Once you've been doing this lot for a few months/a while, jump squats and snatches are a good addition to throw in every now and again to help with explosive power.

Please note however all the above advice comes from experience in powerlifting and other sports, and I have only been bouldering regularly for a short while (5-6 months).