[granticus]

Having got the 3rd ascent of Supercede sitter 8A at Hartland Quay, Mikey Cleverdon set to work on an alternative start into this problem from the start of Carnage.  Boys from the Shire 8A.     good effort Mikey!

Carnage wall  is now looking like a pretty hardcore venue and all problems are high in quality.  Carnage 7B, Northern Exposure 7A ?? (our Mike Adams highball line right of Supercede still unrepeated), Corridors of Power 7C, Supercede 8A and Boys from the Shire 8A.

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/NC_Bouldering.shtml

[shark]

Cheers Grant
 

Any update on a guide ?

[granticus]

   Heeeeeewo!

Mr Dave Westlake is supposed to be putting a topo together for Hartland area not sure how far he's got.  As for the Lynmouth topo....  Having brought it to completion bar a bit of tweaking and proof reading my hard drive decided to break.  Fortunately i had emailed myself a half done version so I'm not completely starting from scratch   However..  as a result I have lost my mojo for it, if anyone finds it can they send it SW.

There is a strong (small and local but active) scene down here at the moment, lots of discoveries and exploration going down and some excellent problems being created.

[Dave Westlake]

Topo is nearing completion, but I am very busy with work at the moment so it will be a while before it gets out. 

Grant - Mikey told me the name was going to be "People of the shire", has he changed his mind??

It is a good link up, a bit easier than Supercede but probably the same grade, soft 8a rather than solid 8a I think.  The bit that is different (the start) has easier but bigger moves so it is quite draining.

Oh, and Northern exposure is NOT 7a, even when totally dry.  7b+ ish and scarey

[Greg C]

I heard Northern Exposure had only been done on a shunt ?

[Dave Westlake]

 

King of the coast!

[granticus]

Maybe I got the name wrong
Could be 'People of the Shire'.
I keep doing that!  I think I just hear what I want to hear sometimes Or have inadvertently come up with a better name!

Oh, and Northern exposure is NOT 7a, even when totally dry.  7b+ ish and scarey

  Love the fact that Mike A has severely underestimated the grade, he did it on his own with 2 pads in less than ideal conditions...   

[mikey.c]

Tis 'People of the shire' Dude, Thanx for da acknowledgement, I was trying to decide whether it is as hard as supercede or not, but think that it may be a bit easier, but for me there ain't much in it, maybe as my method to supercede slightly diff. to the others. I did repeat supercede straight after i completed 'People of the shire' and a little rest of course. That didn't help me decide. Obviously like with any grading this is all down to personal strengths and weakness's, and we'll just have to see how others get on before we get some consistency. Anyway, Well Psyched! thanx dudes. 

[granticus]

Cheers for clearing that up Cleverbum and now you're signed up to UKB I can wad you for sending 'People of the Shire'.

[chris]

is there any details on where this wall is, and how to get to the crag? im thinking of heading down that way over easter and keen to check out hartland.

[granticus]

Chris..
Find your own way to Hartland Quay, don't confuse it with Hartland Point !  If you have a North Devon and Cornwall guidebook the wall with Carnage, Supercede etc..  is opposite the route called Canard at Screda Point.  If you don't... look left (facing out to sea) from the carpark and you should see a big slab of rock across the bay from you, this is Screda Point.  Now scramble down to the beach and boulder hop across towards Screda.  The wall faces away from the parking and you won't see it until you walk past it.http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/NC_Bouldering.shtml
In the absence of Dave's topo, working from left to right you have...
Carnage 7b - Sit start on undercuts, big move to edge or use intermediates, up into another undercut then big move up left to jug.
Supercede 8a - Sit start on ickle undercut up to slopey shelf, goes up via obvious rib feature (see photo on Javu).
Northern Exposure 7b/+ - Thin crack right of Supercede.
link ups... Corridors of Power 7c - start as for Supercede then scuttle left into Carnage (see photo on Javu).
People of the Shire 8a - start as for Carnage then scuttle right into Supercede.
TAKE A TIDE TIMETABLE, DON'T GET CUT OFF, 3 MATS MINIMUM AND A SPOTTER (if you knock yourself out and you're alone the tide will come in and you'll drown!)

[Andy B]

the wall with Carnage, Supercede etc..  is opposite the route called Canard at Screda Point.

There is another fin between The Canard Slab, and the Carnage wall (with an E4 roof facing Canard).

look left (facing out to sea) from the carpark and you should see a big slab of rock across the bay from you, this is Screda Point.  Now scramble down to the beach and boulder hop across towards Screda. 

An alternative approach for those who are confident on easy routes, which potentially gives more time on the face, is to ab in off the belay stakes for the main slab, then carefully scramble back up the Mod ridge on the fin between Carnage and Canard (the one I've just mentioned). Or you could theoretically jumar back up your ab rope (although I haven't done this and it would probably be knackering).

[Duma]

Re that north coast report on javu, are the developers any closer to revealing details of the superbloc area? am keen to have a look when its out in the open.

[SA Chris]

That does look the business in the pics.

[granticus]

Re that north coast report on javu, are the developers any closer to revealing details of the superbloc area? am keen to have a look when its out in the open.

Semi-locals    Tom Newberry and Dave Westlake, are said 'developers' and I'm not sure whether they're being tight with their info or not??

This is where Dave fails to reply to the thread and pretends he hasn't read it.

All i can say is it is in Cornwall, near somewhere beginning with T that has connections with Arthurian legend at what not, but can't be more specific than that because I haven't been or been invited  

So Tom and Dave are we gonna have to wait for you both to make your occasional visits back SW to complete your projects before you spill the beans or shall we get Mike to post details of how to get there?   

[SA Chris]

http://maps.google.co.uk/

How good is magnification for that area - chalky topouts anyone??

[granticus]

Good plan SA..



hmmmmmmm.......  somewhere round yer me thinks??? but where?



Carnage wall is here, zoom out to see where it is in relation to the rest of the world!

[chris]

Chris..
Find your own way to Hartland Quay, don't confuse it with Hartland Point !  If you have a North Devon and Cornwall guidebook the wall with Carnage, Supercede etc..  is opposite the route called Canard at Screda Point.  If you don't... look left (facing out to sea) from the carpark and you should see a big slab of rock across the bay from you, this is Screda Point.  Now scramble down to the beach and boulder hop across towards Screda.  The wall faces away from the parking and you won't see it until you walk past it.http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/NC_Bouldering.shtml
In the absence of Dave's topo, working from left to right you have...
Carnage 7b - Sit start on undercuts, big move to edge or use intermediates, up into another undercut then big move up left to jug.
Supercede 8a - Sit start on ickle undercut up to slopey shelf, goes up via obvious rib feature (see photo on Javu).
Northern Exposure 7b/+ - Thin crack right of Supercede.
link ups... Corridors of Power 7c - start as for Supercede then scuttle left into Carnage (see photo on Javu).
People of the Shire 8a - start as for Carnage then scuttle right into Supercede.
TAKE A TIDE TIMETABLE, DON'T GET CUT OFF, 3 MATS MINIMUM AND A SPOTTER (if you knock yourself out and you're alone the tide will come in and you'll drown!)

[/quote]

thanks i'll try not to drown!

[TN080]

After keeping you guessing for a little while the info on the new north cornwall bouldering area now availible here: http://info.rockrun.com/articles/tintagel-north-cornish-coastal-bouldering.html

Hope people find it useful.

[granticus]

    Cheers Tom! Good work!  Think my google map (above) was pretty close to the mark..  See you soon.