[dave]

Fuckin hell dutch, what's wi the new login?

[Andy B]

At least we know those Mello PM's were wasted on him.

[Dutch]

Can't even remember my last login details!  Thought I'd start to have some form of opinions, especially when Scouse is taking potential 7's off me

[Andy B]

Used another sequence on this tonight. Left foot same as bonjoy, right foot in a half width heel toe cam in the break, just right of the arete, right hand on the good bit of the arete, left hand on nothing. Pull up and hit the big bit of the sloper near the arete. Everything pinged as I hit the sloper, which made it a fun move, but my core ain't great at the mo, so cutting loose may not really be necessary. This is definitely a new regular on my Burbage North circuit. Good stuff. We also did Solitude for the first time tonight, which is another very worthwhile problem on a circuit.

[dave]

We also did Solitude for the first time tonight, which is another very worthwhile problem on a circuit.

nice! did you do bogg's thing just next to it too?

[Andy B]

Hmm. It might have been Bogg's thing that we did to be honest. I knew there were the two problems there but couldn't remember which went where. I just assumed that Solitude would be the most obvious of the two. We started sitting on a juggy rail on the lip of the overhang, draped up and left on slopers for a few moves then rocked back right onto the slab, and finished straight up. Which one is that?

[dave]

yeah thats solitude, spot on. bogg's thing was same/similar start, bridge over right, get an undercut jam in the break and reach up past everything. me and tom thought it was harder, but bogg thought it was piss in comparison. sick fuck.

[Andy B]

Nice one. Solitude is a good problem then. It needed a bit of cleaning, but was scrittle free after a quick brush. I thought you could continue heading up left to finish in the crack, but it would be a bit thrutchy, and just a bad sequence on the original really.

By the way, I doubt that Sitting in Oxford is easier than 7a. three people that eat 7a's for breakfast didn't do it last night. That 'Scouse' guy doesn't know what he's talking about.

[cofe]

By the way, I doubt that Sitting in Oxford is easier than 7a. three people that eat 7a's for breakfast didn't do it last night.

i'm sure you'll get it next time, pet.

[dave]

I thought you could continue heading up left to finish in the crack, but it would be a bit thrutchy, and just a bad sequence on the original really.

thats what I thought at the time - plus it was really filthy.

[Andy B]

By the way, I doubt that Sitting in Oxford is easier than 7a. three people that eat 7a's for breakfast didn't do it last night.

i'm sure you'll get it next time, pet.

How dare you! I was not one of the three. Do you really think that I would walk away from a problem that Scouse or Dutch have done without crushing it?

[Andy B]

Another reason that SIO must be at least 7c, is that Daddy Royle has done it, and he doesn't climb under 7c.

[cofe]

By the way, I doubt that Sitting in Oxford is easier than 7a. three people that eat 7a's for breakfast didn't do it last night.

i'm sure you'll get it next time, pet.

How dare you! I was not one of the three. Do you really think that I would walk away from a problem that Scouse or Dutch have done without crushing it?

I just assumed you were still sat under it, tips bleeding, posting from your smartphone?

Actually wandered past it the other night while resting and thought it looked pretty hard. One move problems generally earn their grade.

[haydn jones]

Icarus Upstart - E4 6b or highball 6C – At 5 Clouds. Boulder prob start to Icarus Allsorts. Start with pocket on lip of cave, jump to jug and continue direct into the normal route. Doesn’t use the pillar on the right.  Boulderers might want to step off after the steep bit.  FA Adam Long (I made up the name, by all means change if you want JB)

Did you ever do the low star to this starting at the back of the cave? I did it today and thought it was brilliant

[Bonjoy]

Nice one Haydn! I think your's is the FA. I always though this would make a good prob. How hard is it?

[haydn jones]

Not sure. It was quite warm and felt about 7C maybe 7B+?

[Bonjoy]

How did it climb? I'm assuming the crack and wall/block out right aren't used?

[haydn jones]

Yes no block to the right. From undercuts at back of roof left hand to a 1/4 pad crimp in roof.  Right hand to arete and right hand again all the way to pocket on lip. Right foot toe hooking. Then the crux which involved shenanigans.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. Good beta   

[DAVETHOMAS90]

New crack problem at Stanage Plantation.

"Yosemite Whites".

About 7A+

I'm trying the whole traverse, so please don't nick it, if you can help yourselves, but the crack is great fun.

Start on the slab, across onto the nose and down the crack. Through the niche - no dabs! - and out/up via the thinner crack.

Sorry for the crap photos, but you get the idea. I'll get better ones.

My project traverses the slopes LW from the end of the crack.











Thanks to Rich Heap's wife Janet for patching the whites 

I've got a few other things to write up from a few years ago, near the Cowperstone.

[Fiend]

Nice one DT, that looks horrendous 

[lagerstarfish]

foolishness

(nice one  )

[SA Chris]

Ya dafty! Looks ace, stick with it.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Thanks all 

It's very good fun. The full traverse will be hard.

[user deactivated]

Nice one Dave! Looks like loads of fun. Reminds me a bit of Rob Smith’s thing at Rowtor that climbs out through a hole. Do you remember free Hueco and the problem ‘birth simulator’. What a great name for these experiences