[shark]

BTW if anyone is keen to post on Sunday and I havent started it yet - feel free to start it first..

[Charles]

I've had a good week and am keen to put off the work I've got to do tonight!

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Bouldered at the Matrix. Good session, did the 7b+ I set. Probably more like 7b. Ripped a huge flapper. Drove to Wales and slept in freezing cold bunk house ready for...
Wednesday - Bouldered in Llanberis Pass. Really good day out, flashed The Minimum and climbed some other good problems.
Thursday - Bouldered at the Matrix. Knackered, but still managed some good problems.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Rest.
Sunday - Bouldered at the Secret Garden. Another good day out. Managed to do Dick Williams in a session. Close to Zaff's Problem but greasy sloper raped my skin so sacked it off.

A really good week for me. Climbing well on consecutive days is looking good for Font trip. Saturday was an unintended rest day but probably helped my session today! Working a lot next week so less opportunity to climb. Must stay psyched and strong!

[Davo]

Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Drove to The Pass and managed Bus Stop (thought it was brilliant). Walked over to Lizard King and found that last move was still absolutely nails for me and then drove home.
Wednesday: Fingerboarded in morning (weighted session 4.5kgs). Evening went to Wall and did a big hold/power session.
Thursday: Endurance session at wall. Did about 30 mins in total on easy circuits. Felt much better on fitness and recovery. Forgot to count up moves but will try and do this and set a baseline.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Parisella's. Fell off end of High Life which was both frustrating and satisfying at same time, as it showed I am slowly improving. Did Ring of Fire High as consolation.
Sunday: Fingerboard session (weighted 5kgs)

Overall a good week and am psyched to both hit the grit this week and also complete unfinished business at cave. Have begun also to feel effects of doing a bit of endurance work, need to slowly increase the volume over the next month and prepare for the routes season.

[Three Nine]

Goals: Cider Soak, Right Hand Man, 7Bs, strong for Europe

M - Cuttings. Did a 7c, felt a bit sloppy.
T - Rest (no running as bad ankle but think that will change this week)
W - 45 Power
T - 45 Poor and unstructured session, deadhangs (did 6 sec on 45s, a PB)
F - Rest
S - Ansteys. Fell off the last move of CS. Upset as wont get back for a few weeks.
S - Cheddar. Did a 7c (+ repeated it as good resistance training).

Medium week. Would have liked to do CS but that's life. Feeling very tired. Will possibly have a double rest day soon.

[nik at work]

8B, 8b, (E8)

M - AM in the Peak just punting around, PM new problem at Mytholm, 7C+(?) dyno.
T - Warton, failed to do Poison with extended start.
W - Warton did Poison with extended start.
T - Brief fingerboard session, maybe two minutes.
F - Waybuloo yoga
S - Widdop child herding
S - Shipley child herding (with a cheeky 7A flash)

Got out a reasonable amount this week but not done much, and no training to speak of, minmal Waybuloo and most worryingly no Lego. Font in three and a half weeks, time to up my game (although I have been having a preparatory croissant each morning)...

[Richie Crouch]

Goals: font 8A+ UK&Swizz, a 7C in font

Mon: Fingerboard, maximal hangs front/back 2&3/monos/slopers/1 arm deadhang RH, pressups, corework,
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Fingerboard, maximal hangs front/back 2&3/monos/slopers/1 arm deadhang RH, pressups
Fri: General volume bouldering up to v8ish
Sat: Rest, red wine in evening.
Sun: Volume bouldering up to v8ish, more red wine.

Left arm seems a lot better than last week now i.e. I don't get searing pain and can lift it above shoulder height! Psyched for Tues/Weds to see if I can climb anything. Just need some time on rock before font trip so I don't climb like a total bellend 

[tomtom]

Goals - 7b+ this year

M: Fingerboard session - inlcuding 'fast' pull ups..
T: rest
W: Almscliff after meeting in Leeds. Forgot Bouldering mat! Low traverses etc.. Good progress on Si's arete, Steves wall hung first hold (few times) - improvement on last visits!
T: rest
F: Curbar. Great session. Nailed trackside first time, then spanked by Guerilla Warfare, then got close working Tracker - could well be first 7b as it all felt do-able..
Sa: rest (Gentle walking and drinking in Lakes with MrsTT)
Su: Hour or so traversing cottage where we were staying whilst MrsTT packed 

[lagerstarfish]

I have been having a preparatory croissant each morning

That's hardcore. I have a new hero. 

[andy popp]

M: Nothing
T: Board session in the evening, goes rubbish for no obvious reason. Hey ho. Feel stronger hanging tho'
W: weighted pull-ups, goes fine
T: Harmers Wood in the day, do brilliant highball V5 I've not done before, lovely quiet time. Fingerboard in evening.
F: Achey
S: Weekend trip to Sheff YYFY. Set off from Cheshire in high excitement, weather shit in Peak NNFN. Bump into lots of Old Schoolers, Dance (and drink) the night away. This does count as aerobic.
S: Wake up absolutely buggered to glorious weather. Am v.v. wobbly at Plantation. Bump into more old men

Not much 'snap' this week for some reason (esp on Tues) but bit of volume

[duncan]

STG: E3 / El Capitan in June
MTG: E5
LTG: make my physio. redundant

M: Shoulder stability exs.: side-planks, mini-press-ups, lock-offs.  Tweaky, so stopped early.
T: Continuous F5 for 15 mins.
W: Shoulder stability exs.
T: Climbing! Outside!!  First time on rock this year.  Glorious day, at Lawencefield of all places.  Did a bunch of VSs and HVSs, felt pretty good.
F: Shoulder stability exs. Visit from sister+bro' in law.  Wine was drunk.
S: Hungover
S: Shoulder stability exs.

The good: climbing is great.
The not-so-good: post-parenthood alcohol tolerance.

[Plattsy]

Goal - Font 7A.
Weight: 13st 5lbs (-2lbs on last week)

M: Rest
T: Foundry session. Usual problems. No progress on the project problem. Power goatee had a fair session. 160 sit-ups. 40 press ups. Stretching.
W: 10 mile run in 90mins.
T: Foundry session. Warmed up and then set about working undone problems. Made progress on all and completed one. Power goatee on form. Short fingerboard session on 35s. Stretching.
F: Rest. Beer.
S: Inclement weather dampens my psyche for a long run. Rest. Beer. Power goatee ridiculed by all my mates. What do they know?
S: Curbar in glorious sunshine. Ticked The Ultimate Gritstone Experience in about 8 attempts which is pretty quick for me. Power goatee applauded.

Disappointed by the level of running as I've got the Grindleford Gallop this Saturday but really please with my form on rock considering my lack of rock time recently.

[Jaspersharpe]

Goal - not be quite so shit

Monday - Didn't feel great, persuaded myself to at least do something and knocked off 10 pull ups on the 20mm edge.
Tuesday - Ditto. Cough/cold thing still hanging around - did another ten pull ups. Ate loads of nice pizza.
Wednesday - Went to the gym - pushed it a bit harder than last week. Still weak as fuck but definite improvement. Watched the England game and drank lager.
Thursday - Ached a lot. Drank wine and ate some really nice Spanish pork thing that the Mrs cooked.
Friday - Stared out of the office window at the glorious weather before going to The Works. Warmed up on a couple of problems before thinking that some of the reds looked ok. Flashed the first one I tried and it was all downhill from there. Ended up doing about ten of them with Old Skool legend Graham Hoey (some took five or six goes and we failed on a load too so plenty of volume for me!). Went to The Sheaf for a couple before a nice bottle of wine at home.
Saturday - Shoulders, arms and fingers destroyed! Took Raf to The Works but he wasn't interested as apparently it was "too busy". Had a nice pub lunch.
Sunday - Amazing weather but planned trip to Curbar cancelled as my cold was back with a vengeance. Pottered about shopping and taking Raf to the park (balance training on wobbly bridge) before he fell asleep in the car enabling us to have a pint outside The Sheaf in the sun.

Pretty good week spoiled by being ill. This stupid cold thing has been bugging me all week without being too bad. It's got worse last couple of days so will hopefully fuck off soon. Definitely felt stronger at the gym and at The Works despite it.

[BB]

Last week was pretty much the same as the week before.

M - recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
W - Have stitches out and recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
F - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery

I wouldn't normally post on this thread, but I'm feeling really sorry for myself.

[richdraws]

Goals this year
get used to sport climbing
boulder 7c+ in this country - boulder 7c in font


2weeks of fingerboarding 4x a week. Altered to include more grip types but kept overall volume roughly the same.
3sets of front 2, mid 2 and back 2
5 sets of 1/2 crimp 3 fingers
3 sets of 4 finger half crimp
slopers if bothered
pull ups - one armers if feeling good if I'm not feeling powerful weighted pull ups (40kg) or assisted one armers if getting the weights out is too much hassle.

Sunday     fingerboarded
Tuesday   fingerboarded
Thursday  fingerboarded - hurt finger
Friday      went to the works as I presumed the finger injury was bruising and noticed no discomfort whilst climbing. Was quite crap at climbing unsuprisingly.
Sunday    fingerboarded without any problems hoping the finger is only bruised.

Another 4 sessions next week.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7c (this year), More Font 7Bs, F8a before 1/1/2014

M: Few pullups
T: Campus and fingerboard @ The Works - But of a frustrating session as I'm being uber careful so I don't fall off an trash the knee even more. This means starting at well below what I know I can do on the campus board but seeing how weak I feel it's no bad thing.
W: Not a lot.
T: Campus and fingerboard @ The Works - Work out a better routine and get some ace reggae on me iPhone.. Destroyed!
F: Chill.
S: Dick about then DJ and drink til 3am.
S: Moan about sore head, sore knee and glorious weather...

Not a great week but better than the previous one... Good to sort out a training plan and get back on the horse as it were.. Probably need to fine tune a few things this week to get the most out of it but should be good for font @ Easter as long as the knee sorts itself out.... Good news on the knee front tho, can fully straighten it now, can weight it, physio's happy with progress and confident(ish) I'll be climbing by Font ...
:D

[Yossarian]

Aims:
Cover of Men's Health
Beat celebrity Cross Dressing cagefighter Alex Reid in an armwrestle

Monday / Tuesday  - Not a lot.
Wednesday - Really good 2hr+ road ride before heading up to town on the train
Thursday / Friday / Saturday - Excuses, excuses
Sunday - Awesome 70 miler, despite idiotic decision to ride into the wind up the coast rather than go the other direction. Oh and one of my contact lenses fell out going down a hill. Luckily it got stuck to my luxuriant eyelashes, and as such I managed to remove it, dunk it in PSP22, then reinsert it despite a brisk wind that threatened to blow it across the Channel...

This week will see if I can manage 200+ miles, a shit load of weights, some Beastmaker, evening classes at the Handsome Boy Modelling School, eat lots of sprouting beans and hopefully not get carried away with rum cocktails...

[Iesu]

i thought you were on about these:

[nai]

Goals – font 7C/grow some balls

M - nowt
T - Scary morning snowballing at High Neb afternoon sulking at Burbage South.  Good workout without much success, felt like a wasted day in the end.
W- sore
Th – last minute issue at work robbed me of the afternoon off, headed back to Electrical Storm for an hour after I got out to test new beta but still can’t reach the crimp.  Have a few attempts at my previous sequence but don’t want to risk holing skin and head home.
Fri – return to Stanage End snowballing, seems the routes are just as high and scary as Tuesday, nearly give up but some easy solos around High Neb re-enthuses and I head to Pop End where I bump into Dan Arkle & friends, nice to have spotters/beta sharing and this bring some success.  Good day in the end but very tiring.
Sa – knackered and sore skin, friends visiting so supposed to be out climbing but not that unhappy that the weather’s poor.  Dinner and drinks in the evening, overdo it.
Su – early morning at Burbage West under protest, head & skin still sore & not bothered about doing much.  Warm up, tape up, struggle up Breakfast and am happy to call it day.

Mrs & kids are away at the weekend so plan to rest up until Saturday then unleash on Almscliff. 

[andybfreeman]

Aims 7b in font (onde du choc) + 7c route in uk and/or spain in the summer

M - poor circuits session, didn't feel recovered from saturday's session. ended badly splitting a tip
T - rest
W- power session 45 deg board. super glue lastted my warm up only
T - weights and bar work to give the tip time to heal
F- rest
S- bouldering comp at TCA + session on whites
S - supposed to be climbing routes in cheddar but woke up feeling rough so decided to rest

Weight - average for week 68.8kg but down to 68.2 on sunday morning

[JamesD]

Its been a shockingly piss poor week for training this week.

Short term goals, get some consistency back to my training
MT goal, improve technique, have fun, get strong
LT goal, get my ass up a V4 by May (my birthday)

Monday: Usual work and back bike milage, after which I sat around smoked a Cigar, did some work, I think it was a Sancho Panza Bachilleres, productive evening....not

Tuesday: Tried and failed to motivate myself to get down the gym, felt exhausted from the previous week of work still, smoked another Cigar, one of the new batch of Cohiba Siglo II's, lovely.

Wednesday:
Hit a couple of V0's, warmed up on the fingerboard, focused on good sit start technique and careful foot placement, then tried to blitz one or two V0's as quick as possible.
Elbow felt good after the rest so I thought let's push it a little more Hit a few V1's but the final move eluded me on two of them, 2 problems I had done relatively easily 2 weeks back.
Frustration kicked in after several attempts on each and I gave up, my body felt good but my brain felt like mush today, it just wasn't clicking into place, it was like I had the power to do it, but I just couldn't remember how?!
Fingers felt strong though so went and hammered them on the fingerboard, then decided to try some semi-plyometric stuff on the rock rings, trying to take one hand off and pull up quickly to touch the released hand above the pull up bar, tried several variations of this, including multiple hangs on the jug, 4 finger, and 3 finger, plus all combinations of the above, threw in a few pullups then finished, felt good.
I then hung off the slopers on the fingerboard until failure, which wasn't long, my fingers had nothing left after this, couldn't even take a key out of my wallet just after.
Feeling great felt like a really productive session.

Thursday: Was not a good day, I was amped to go to the gym until multiple situations conspired against me.
My mum got taken into hospital, she is diabetic and apparently after going for a general check-up, not only was her blood sugar dangerously high, but more seriously her Liver enzymes (can't remember which ones) were highly elevated, she was admitted straight away, but I couldn't find anything out for several hours, immediately after this whilst waiting to hear how my mum was doing, I found out I had to redo a load of crops of some images that I resized for a client, so had to spend 2-3 hours working on a job I had already finished, unsure as to the state of my mums health whilst I waited to hear from my dad or brother, I chain smoked a Monty No. 2 and one of the Sancho Panza's, very unlike me to smoke this much in a week, but fuck it, I was stressed to hell and needed something nice to cheer me up.
Got to speak to my mum later on, she was ok apparently and they thought there might have been an error in the liver enzyme test they did, another test was carried out with results expected the next morning.

Friday:
Found out the results from the original test were skewed somehow and her liver was fine, thankfully.....regardless I left work early and spent the afternoon getting to the hospital, visiting her, and then going to my parents place to catch up with my dad over a few beers.

Saturday:
Worked and picked up girlfriend from the airport

Sunday:

What an awesome day! After the week I had todays session down the wall with the missus was exactly what I needed.
I hit multiple V1's with ease, every V0 in the place without breaking a sweat, and even hit a new really awkward V1 with a bizarre horizontal slightly inverted sit-start, and some really challenging moves, it was so much fun, banged out a load of pull-ups, felt crazy strong on the rock rings and finger-board.
Elbow felt a little strange towards the end, didn't hurt so it must be getting better, still conscious of it though, so not going balls to the wall with my training yet.
But today felt great, i've noticed big gains in finger strength, need to up my pinch-grip a lot to match though, foot-work has improved greatly, amazing  how much energy it helps you conserve in your arms when your foot-work improves!

So all in all, it felt like a productive week, albeit quite a disrupted one, will do better this week

[Three Nine]

Last week was pretty much the same as the week before.

M - recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
W - Have stitches out and recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
F - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery

I wouldn't normally post on this thread, but I'm feeling really sorry for myself.

hi, sorry about your knee. Presumably as soon as you are over feeling crap from the anaesthetic you can get to the deadhanging/pull-ups? my mate fucked his tallus really bad and he hung and hung until he could climb again and he then had ridiculous finger strength

[Jaspersharpe]

Three Nine I see you had two rest days last week. WTF?! Stop slacking, you don't see Patxi taking two WHOLE DAYS off in a week. What is this thread coming to FFS etc.

[iain]

STG: Font in 3 weeks, tick 1 7B+
MTG/LTG: Freaky Ralph and onsight 7b

Mon: Nowt
Tues: felt shit, moped
Wed: fingerboard, ok sesh but tired
Thurs: Went to wall, felt like shit so came home and drank wine
Fri: fingerboard, good sesh, evening curry to celebrate
Sat: nowt
Sun: Portland, fantastic weather, too much chatting so didn't get as much done as I wanted but the onsighting's coming along nicely. All the fall practice and movement drills (that I've been doing with the ARC'ing) is producing some good results.

Was always going to be busy but think I had a virus thing at the beginning of the week which didn't help. Next week should be better.

[Three Nine]

Three Nine I see you had two rest days last week. WTF?! Stop slacking, you don't see Patxi taking two WHOLE DAYS off in a week. What is this thread coming to FFS etc.

Well done.

[tomtom]

i thought you were on about these:

Is this to be positioned/stationed below the fingerboard to provide incentive not to let go?  ???