[Omar15]

Right, so about two and half weeks ago I got a semi-twatted finger (I think the pulleys tweaked a bit) which means I haven't been able to climb properly for the last couple of weeks. Its getting better though and I can pull quite hard open handed now but crimping is a bit dodgy...hopefully it'll be okay soon.

But anyway, I really haven't done anything hard since the injury (except once when i thought it had healed and it hadn't and I was back to square one) and all I can do is fanny around making up gay little problems on the circuit boards. So when its back to full strength, which hopefully should be in a week or two, how much strength can I expect to have lost after about a month of climbing like a jebend?

Cheers,

Omar

[mrjonathanr]

Very little I should think, and that should return within a few sessions assuming the injury is healed. I would not launch into full-on training after an injury however but build up to previous intensity over a number of sessions.

[Three Nine]

lack of strength is not your problem mate

[Twiglett]

I usually find after a week or so its mostly all come back - but in my case there is never that much to loose!!

[JamesD]

I would concentrate on reducing your homophobic use of the word gay to describe something that irritates you... With regards to recovering from your injury i'd try sticking around 50% of your previous training intensity until your injured area feels rock solid, then gradually progress session by session, impatience will mean you end up injured again very quickly.
I have only been bouldering a very short time, but I have had a lot of experience of injuries from other sports and I have found this to be the best approach to work for me.

[Omar15]

Thanks for the replies chaps, I know what you're saying. I need to concentrate on healing the crap out of my finger before i start thinking about training and strength again. *sigh* Last night I had a session and pulled a little bit, maybe too much, on the finger - it was a bit sore this morning but feels okay.

And mark (threenine) you say that, but you didn't see me climb last night - it was embarrassing.

[chris_j_s]

I had a pulley injury (A2) at the tail end of last year and found taping useful (not buddy taping though) to provide some marginal extra support.

I know a lot of people reckon it doesn't make any difference but all I can say is that on the days I forgot to tape my finger it got sore quite quickly.

I'm no expert but as time goes by I would start to pick up the intensity very slightly rather than just stick at a low level for ages. This seems to prevent lumps of scar tissue forming, and develops some degree of elasticity in the scar tissue which will be forming to heal your injury.

Sorry to the medical types on here if this is bad advice, but it did seem to work for me.

[Omar15]

Yup, what you're saying chris_j_s makes sense to me - I've only used tape for my fingers once (last night) so have yet to see how it affects it. But to me, it doesn't make sense to keep sessions really light and dull the whole time - I'm sure stressing the finger a little bit would help it to man up slightly and get over itself. But then I too am no expert on sports injury and rehab either.

[chris_j_s]

You may have seen these already but if not they both contain some very useful info.

http://blog.rockrun.com/articles/finger-injuries-and-treatment.html
http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/pullyinjuries.html
http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/coldtreatment.html

[andybfreeman]

embarrassing to you maybe (and only by your ridiculous standards) but you still weren't exactly held back by a lack of strength - you crusied the top move on that circuits board problem and for my unyt arms that top move was nails!

[Three Nine]

Omar. Stop training and go rock climbing - it will give your finger space to heal and is the only thing that will improve your climbing in the long run.

[Omar15]

Cheers Chris, I've seen the dave mcleod ones but not the rock and run blog - there's some really good information in that, thanks a lot.

Andy and Mark - Yeah. I think you're both right, thanks. We should try and do something outside soon when I'm not broken.

[abarro81]

Omar. Stop training and go rock climbing - it will give your finger space to heal and is the only thing that will improve your climbing in the long run.

We should try and do something outside soon when I'm not broken.