[shark]

I'm pretty ignorant about this sort of weights in relation to climbing strength.
What's the theory behind dead lifting and strength gains versus reps with lighter weights ?

Deadlifting is great for developing back and core stregth (as long as you use good form and dont break yourself) - as its all transmission of power through the chain especially core to legs so translates to pulling up on undercuts.

Lifting heavy weights is best because it makes you feel like an invincible force of nature.

[Dolly]

s its all transmission of power through the chain especially core to legs so translates to pulling up on undercuts.

This might sound like I'm taking the piss (I'm not) but isn't it better to do some undercut problems if that's something you want to get better at  ? I would have thought doing that would be more climbing specific - greater range of dynamic movement/more specific/other muscle groups etc

[shark]

This might sound like I'm taking the piss (I'm not) but isn't it better to do some undercut problems if that's something you want to get better at  ? I would have thought doing that would be more climbing specific - greater range of dynamic movement/more specific/other muscle groups etc

Heavy weights hammer you in a way that even specific systems exercises don't if you are very clear what the exercise trains and why you are targetting it. Even then weights are supplementary rather than instead of.

(Norton better not be putting you up to this)

[SA Chris]

Is cellotape used mainly for fixing the second largest stringed instruments in a modern symphony orchestra?

After some desperate googling.

Cello Tape - Usually a band of electric tape is places in a certain position under the strings on the fingerboard. It's used to mark the location of a fingering for people who are inexperienced players.

And it's used Cellotape and all.

(pedant cunt)

[chris_j_s]

Lifting heavy weights is best because it makes you feel like an invincible force of nature.

[Fiend]

Presumably if you post on this thread you have made some committment to being better?

Errr, exactly.

Which might well include monitoring your training pattern, seeing flaws in it, and working on improving it.

QED.

[Dolly]

(Norton better not be putting you up to this)

No mate - I'm perfectly capable of taking the piss on my own 
Talking of which, fancy training on the board next week ?
We've even got a new grading system in place which gives you the honour of having problems graded "Shark"

The system is
Shark (warm up/1 or maybe 2 attempts)
Hard (within a session)
Quite hard (2-3 sessions)
Reight hard (4 or more sessions)

[shark]

Lifting heavy weights is best because it makes you feel like an invincible force of nature.

Good demo. 55kg of this type of weighted resistance when doing an upright half lever isolates and works the priapic muscle to failure.

 

[mark s]

Not climbed indoors with any regularity since the hayloft closed 3 or 4 years ago.so since the new wall has opened in stoke and its on my way home from work.I have thrown myself in at the deep end.
Sat-wall,bouldering with andi
Sun-earning brownie points with g-f
Mon-wall,bouldering
Tue-wall,bouldering with Andi turnip
Wed,wall,bouldering(a pattern starting to form)
Thurs-went straight home and did nowt
Fri-wall with turner

I'm totally wrecked now,anyone know of any dealers in nandralone?

Goals are national acrobat at ramshaw,this might be on back burner now and would like tick parologism.
Would be nice to climb upper french 7's again,ultimately f8a.but that would mean getting a cheap to run car,and I'm not loosing the impreza to gain a f8a tick,not worth the swop.

[shark]

Would be nice to climb upper french 7's again,ultimately f8a.but that would mean getting a cheap to run car,and I'm not loosing the impreza to gain a f8a tick,not worth the swop.

Good to have you joining in.

Is it as black and white as that. Thors Cave and Beeston have 8a's and are close by and there's Arch Enemies too at 7c+ (IMO).  The Matlock crags a bit further but a good range of 7's.

[mark s]

Cheers.
There a few good routes down dove/manifold.could not seem get thru the top crack on arch enemies,but didn't mind just climbing up to that bit.done some of the good trad routes down there.me and andi shall have another summer tryin to rediscover the area.there also a new guide planned so that's a good excuse.

[shark]

.could not seem get thru the top crack on arch enemies,

Its hard to work out as the way it seems to lean out in every direction makes it hard orient yourself and work the moves out. A slopey left hand gaston and working your feet up the groove in the right sequence to get an undercut for your right worked for me. Not got the redpoint but keen to go back and finish the job in the summer.

[Andy F]

Would be nice to climb upper french 7's again,ultimately f8a.but that would mean getting a cheap to run car,and I'm not loosing the impreza to gain a f8a tick,not worth the swop.

Good to have you joining in.

Is it as black and white as that. Thors Cave and Beeston have 8a's and are close by and there's Arch Enemies too at 7c+ (IMO).  The Matlock crags a bit further but a good range of 7's.

I'm led to believe that Long Tor has some good 8a's. Ruby Fruit sounds qwality.