[shark]

Only just got in and dinner is ready so will post later....

[Three Nine]

Goals: Cider Soak, Right Hand Man, 7Bs, strong for Europe

M: Deadhangs recruitment 1 hour
T: Rest (still no running as ankle still fucked)
W. 45 maximal on pockets. 2 hours. First proper board session emphasizing pockets. Could use the juggy monos a bit.
T. 45 resistance.  2 hours/Still not worked out a good routine for this. Was good at grammar.
F. Rest
S. Anstey's. CS piss wet so felt demotivated. Did my best to train at the crag but wished I had gone north.
S. 8 30 move low-end anaerobic circuits with 4 min rests. Technique drills. 2 hours.

Poor week. sort it out!

[lagerstarfish]

Goal - font 7c
weight 14st 5lb
body fat 30%

M - still ache from Saturday
T - high intensity visualisation session: Natalija Gros doing a photo shoot for PerfectFlex.com
W - wrist hurting from yesterday, some stiffness remaining
Th - as Wednesday. Lots of walking in rain.
F - takeaway curry from Mogul Room
Sa - bouldering at Curbar - did Early Doors (felt E3 topping out in rain) and worked Great White
Su - party with top buffet and cake

[Davo]

Monday: Core bar session, did lots of levers and pull ups in various leg positions. Felt hard first time for a while.
Tuesday: Went to grit with Rich. Managed blockbuster at Caley and Stu's Roof at Almscliffe. An enjoyable day out on grit.
Wednesday: Fingerboard weighted hangs (4.5kg)
Thursday: Fingerboard weighted hangs (4.5kg) rested for a few hours and then went to wall late evening for an endurance session. Endurance at wall was a bit of a disaster as too many people on bouldering wall and I lacked a plan.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Cave, good conditions. Tried and failed on Trigger Cut but enjoyed it. Did Sam's Finish which had great moves. A good session and re-inspired me for the cave after taking a bit of a break from it.
Sunday: Fingerboard weighted hangs (4.5kg) in morning. Wall in evening for an endurance session. Better this time but got bored and realised I need some targets for this to motivate myself.

All in all a good week and have decided to start doing some endurance work to prepare myself for routes season when weather warms up a bit.

[nik at work]

8b,8B,(E8)

M - Damp Warton failing, Damp Trowbarrow not even trying. Family Waybaloo "yoga".
T - Sore skin. Family Waybaloo "yoga".
W - Sore skin. Family Waybaloo "yoga".
Th -  Family Waybaloo "yoga". Late evening board session.
F -  Family Waybaloo "yoga".
Sa - DIY and eating. No Waybaloo.
Su - Not much, a small lego helicopter.

Another disappointing week on the crush/training/lego front, but my five minutes of yoga for two year olds each evening will surely yield impressive flexibility. I promise to pull my finger out next week.

[shark]

Dear Power Club,
I have been a crap shark this week. A fat, pathetic shark marooned on the beach of my own complacency. The facts and figures speak for themselves...

Goals: Austrian Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight: 11.4-7  (last week11.2-4)

M. PM Assisted one arm deadhangs and pull ups and offset pull-ups on board and ladder. Started poorly, ended well. Eve Accidental curry (with hindsight the rot started here).
T. Overslept and missed early Am Yoga. Lunch Fingery Endurance on systems board (woeful). Late eve. Desultory 1hr session on the Wave. 
W.
T. Eve. 1hr on Wave
F. Eve. 2hr on Wave
S. All day at BYCS comp
S. Malham. Oak wet. Cold. Did Personal services 3rd redpoint. Played on Raindogs. Came home. Ate cake.

[Andy F]

Mon - Rest
Tues - Tried bouldering but the split tip from Sunday was worse that I first realised. Taped it up and did some chuffing, but my current lack of stamina showed.
Wed - nowt
Thurs - see Wed
Fri - see Wed and Thurs
Sat - you get the idea
Sun - Warrington. Routes mileage from 6c-7b. A goodish session, but it did take a while to get into the flow and get the psyche juices flowing.
Not the best training week ever, must try harder next week.

[Fiend]

Goals.
Climb F8a before Duncan Disorderly is 40.
Persuade nik at work to give me a week's guided tour of Isle Of Man climbing.
Try every curry house in Shawlands before the winter is out.

Last week:
Mon - n/a, get beaten at pool by a lesbian, AGAIN.
Tue - n/a, play QuakeLive.
Wed - n/a, play QuakeLive, eat curry.
Thu - 2-3 hours steady leading at Ibrox - discovered that pool and QuakeLive might improve my hand-eye coordination but they do fuck all for my strength. Felt weak and tired, finger sore too but didn't get much worse. Eat pizza.
Fri - meet up with a promising climbing partner and other people for drinks, nice social evening, play QuakeLive, eat noodles.
Sat - n/a, play QuakeLive, eat fish and chips.
Sun - skiing, good exercise, boots made my feet hurt a lot, legs did well, good day out.

I have been a proper choad this week. Too much gaming and junkfood, not enough action, and I could really feel my slothfulness at the wall (although I did get some useful training ideas there). Climbing-wise I'm still resting my finger and shoulder. The former was sore at the wall but has got better overall, the latter just hurts from sleeping on it, climbing is fine. So not much climbing but I wasted a lot of opportunities for a quick run or similar, and am not very happy with that. A fair amount of this is due to my state of mind which is.....difficult. Hmmm.

[nik at work]

Persuade nik at work to give me a week's guided tour of Isle Of Man climbing.

I'll give you a shout next time we're going over for a decent length of time.

[andy popp]

3 weeks till I go to HP40 (flights now booked) for a whole THREE days.

Mon: Nothing
Tues: Good session on my board; start on circuits, get sucked into bouldering, go back to more circuits, finish with static locking exercices.
Wed: wake up feeling worked but manage decent set of repeaters on fingerboard
Thurs: Still feel worked but manage reasonable session of circuits in the eve
Fri: Drink beer at works leaving do
Sat: does going round a gallery count?
Sun: was meant to swim but I didn't work out

Managed to do crunches etc every day this week. Want to fit in four sessions next week.

[tomtom]

Mon: Rest
Tues: 3 hour session at Depot.. trashed
Wed: rest
Thurs: 2 hour session at Depot - flowing really well, confidence good
Fri: rest
Sat: Damp afternoon at Curbar (first time visited). Spent c.1 hour working a wet/damp trackside - the slopers were shite - having to crimp/press on edges within the holds rather than using friction. Think it'll go quite quick when dry (famous last words..) Then bumped into Lagers who showed me great white (about the only thing dry by then) - had a play on that. 
Sun: rest - Surprisingly achey. Must have been working my arms more than I thought on the wet rock..

[lagerstarfish]

Sat:  bumped into Lagers
Sun: rest - Surprisingly achey. Must have been working my arms more than I thought on the wet rock..

edit to my post earlier...

Sat: used my Energy Vampire abilities to sap strength from Tomtom
Sun: sold Tom's energy to EDF

[tomtom]

Sat:  bumped into Lagers
Sun: rest - Surprisingly achey. Must have been working my arms more than I thought on the wet rock..

edit to my post earlier...

Sat: used my Energy Vampire abilities to sap strength from Tomtom
Sun: sold Tom's energy to EDF

   wondered where all my life force had gone - when all I'd done was sit around and drink tea in the drizzle try trackside for a bit..

[Plattsy]

Goal - Font 7A.
Weight: 13st 7lbs (+1.5lbs on last week)

M: Rest
T: CityBloc bouldering - power goatee is on form. Beer.
W: Felt better. Rested. More beer.
T: Struggling. Works bouldering. Power goatee lets me down. I was shit. Obviously drinking two school nights on the trot isn't conducive to good form. Have a stern word with myself and hit the beastmaker fingerboard.
F: Rest.
S: 10mile-ish run. 90mins-ish.
S: Boulder at the Foundry. Excellent session. 30ish problems. Repeat spotty problem first time. Make good progress on an elite problem.

Week started well. Dipped and then ended well. Need to up mileage and continue fingerboarding and not drink so much beer. Aim for 2 out of 3 

[andybfreeman]

M-rest
T-power endurance circuits at TCA, felt pretty good lapping the orange and extending my best link on the harder red
W-power on 45deg board, prioritised pockets pleased with moves into and off the juggy monos but struggled with accuracy on longer moves
T- mix of circuits and problems at TCA
F-rugby and beer
S- routes indoors, got spanked despite progress on circuits, clipping was awful but had to start somewhere!
S-rest

Weight 69kg average for the week but 69.7 this morning! Ate too much with my brother this weekend, chef's menu at casamia was good though!

Must try harder and eat less this week

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 62.5kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M: 90 min fingerboard session. 30 mins or so warm up then 1 hr of max hangs
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. 2 more problems done (1 flashed!) and getting close to completing my goal now although all of the remaining problems are totally nails... and they must be getting close to doing a re-set!
W: Out for a beer but managed a 30 min session on the rock rings doing pull ups, lock offs, frenchies.
T: Rest
F: Routes at Kendal, great session - continuing with stamina work. Plenty of route mileage done, managed a 7a flash and warmed down on a long 6c (have been trying to raise my minimum level to this for a while now so quite pleasing).
S: 2 hour walk, caught up on diy around the house.
S: Bouldering at Farleton (was bone dry and great conditions)  warmed up then spent ages working a 6C+ (The Final Frontier) only to get repeatedly shut done on a move off a mono just below the top - disappointing. Just before leaving and before skin completely died decided to give one go on a nearby 6C and to my surprised flashed it. Was my first 6C so session was a success overall although slightly dissapointed not to get the 6C+ if I'm honest!

Weather this weekend was dry on the whole (apart from a little bit of drizzle on Sun evening) and it dawned clear and bright this morning. Fingers crossed for more of the same this week and lots of dry rock for routes next weekend...

[nai]

Goal font 7C

M – 80 pullups and a 50 pressups
T
W - as Monday
Th – late evening fingerboard session, not the best but ok
F
S – early morning fingerboard session.  Felt great, recorded a couple of PBs which was surprising (because we’re lighter in the morning?).  Then took the kids to grandmas where we were fed fish and chips for lunch.  Returned home to find Mrs had bought pizza for tea.  And wine.  And cake.  I suspect there will be no PBs next week.
Su

Mixed week, I knew work would be busy and opportunities to climb or train limited, so to manage four short sessions and end up with a good one is heartening.  Look forward to this week, tomorrow’s booked off and if weather and skin hold out I'll be on for thursday too. 

[Richie Crouch]

Mon: Rest
Tues: Burned off by Davo and my left arm is well injured
Wed: Rest/injured
Thu: Rest/injured
Fri: Rest/injured
Sat: Short fingerboard session, no reaction from arm!
Sun: Rest, watched football on t'internet whilst massaging left arm a lot.

Frustrating week waiting for my left arm to recover. Luckily I am working everyday till next Mon at least so will just keep trying some hanging every other day until it feels ready to pull on anything steeper. Hope its just a strain rather than a tear round the bicep area 

[chillax]

Been almost a complete washout int terms of training this week. Who knew this masters lark might actually involve a bit of graft? 

Mon - Thurs: Work, panic, work more, drink coffee, smoke cigarettes
Fri: Same but with fingerboard session to fool myself into thinking I'm doing something
Sat - Sun: Work, Coffee, Cigarettes

Short term goals: Smoke less, don't get too savagely burnt off at the irish bouldering meet in a couple of weeks, profit
Long term: Onsight E3 at the head

[Jeff25]

2010 goal: Redpoint 8a+, boulder 7B, have a baby.
Body fat 14.5%, 66kgs.

Monday: Rest
Tusday: WWay climbing session - managed a slab v5 - woahhhh
Wed: Rest
Thur: WWay boulder sess - bit better - dizy heights of v6
Fri: Rest
Sat: Boulder session - did a v8 in two sections that ive been projecting for a while.
Sun: Pull ups and a swim

Fingers starting to feel dodgy and am having some skin issues. bit unusual as its always been my elbows in the past. Wondering if i can get back on a campus board.

Am enjoying all the bouldering and dreaming that i might be getting stronger. am hoping to get some serious training in during upcoming Paternity leave...

[Jaspersharpe]

Goal - Stop being such a punter and train / climb more than once a week.

Monday - Honestly can't remember. Certainly didn't train though. Cooked prawns in some sort of butter and tomato indian recipe. Very nice.
Tuesday - Errr....I'm going to have to start writing this down. No training.
Wednesday - Gym. Took it easy as otherwise I'd be fucked for three days. Gently getting back into it but still way off where I was weight wise.
Thursday - Ached a bit from the gym but not too bad. Made Dolly's baked camenbert thing with savoy cabbage and smoked mackerel - amazing. Drank wine.
Friday - Slightly hungover. Aced a big task at work, client very happy. Bailed at half two to The Works where I managed about 20 problems on the purple 6B - 7A+ circuit before it started getting busy for the comp. Drank Farmer's Blonde in The Sheaf and Heineken when I got in.
Saturday - Fingers very creaky from climbing Friday but nothing damaged. Did some work. Bought huge amounts of shopping from Sainsbury's and drank lager while watching Brighton stuff Exeter (on Soccer Saturday) and Arsenal beat Stoke (despite Ramsey horror injury).
Sunday - Considered the gym for about ten seconds. Didn't go. Family do (same one as Lagers) where I stuffed my face and got stuck into the lager and red wine as the Mrs was driving.

A good week all round but I've got to try to manage more than two sessions if I'm going to get anywhere. On the plus side I could feel a bit of crimp strength returning on Friday. It's going to take time and pain..........if only I didn't have to work 45 - 50 hours a week.

[Charles]

Short term goal: Climb 7a every day on Font trip (End of March)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Get fit for Mallorca > Powerband (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday - Three hour session bouldering at The Matrix. Good session.
Tuesday - Rest (Did some pressups)
Wednesday - Fingerboard. Felt strong.
Thursday - Rest.
Friday - Washed holds at the Matrix, set a couple of problems and tested. Knackered. Couple o beers.
Saturday - Worked then drank cider.
Sunday - Malham. Felt strong but not for more than three moves. Got Personal Services ready to redpoint next time. Wine and cheese on the evening.

Need to fingerboard more in preparation for Font. Power endurance still a massive weakness but will address it after Font.

[Stubbs]

Goals: mutter mutter mutter paranoia, mutter mutter mutter Suffolk, mutter mutter mutter Zoo York. New goal find dry rock in Font next week and try and climb a 7A (gotta be realistic)

M: weights and core after being on the receiving end of severe par on Sunday, motivation was high
T: local wall, got burnt off of course...
W: run, felt pretty good even in the freezing rain
T: hard day at work, then down to London for partying
F: blustery coastal stroll, partying in Brighton
S: Shopping in Brighton, lots more good food and booze
S: more good food in London and walking around markets

Hmmm, gastronomically ready for font, but not climbing ready!

[JamesD]

Short term goal: improve technique, develop more finesse, improve contact strength so it matches open handed/crushing strength.
Mid-term goal: V3/V4 by June this year
Long term goal: Get better overall, get out onto some real rock, and improve

Monday:
Nursing a slightly dodgy feeling from elbow last week attempting a roof problem that was probably a little beyond my ability, elbow tweaked due to a foot slipping and me totally messing up an attempted move, this slowed me down a little this week so I concentrated as much as possible on correct foot placement and good technique.
So did the following:
5 mile ride in to work, 2 mile ride from work to the wall, followed by:
4-5 V1 problems, and a few V0s including one semi-dynamic one which managed to upset my elbow a little, not a good idea then 
To give it a break I went upstairs to do some core work on the swiss ball and on the ground, warmed up with a set of sit-ups then went into several sets of glute and ab bridges on the swiss ball, continued for around 10 minutes doing small dips/push ups in each position, felt strong, felt good, really pleased.
I then went off into a 20-30 minute stretching routine afterwards, doing some flexibility stuff like long static holds etc.
Followed by a 3 mile ride home.

Tuesday
5 miles to work

5 miles back

on the bike, did a little bit of gripper work, intended to go to the gym but was so knackered after a long stint at work during the past week or so

Wednesday:
I think the gripper work aggrovated the elbow, going to steer clear until it sorts itself out, or may just drop it entirely and focus on fingerboard work as this seems to be giving me really good gains when I put the effort in, ended up doing around 15 miles on the bike today due to some work stuff, then I got to the wall:
Did a few V0 problems and my elbow was just about holding up, didn't want to push my luck though so decided to cut it short there and go do some fingerboard work, did some short 4 finger, 3 finger and a supported 2 finger holds, then did some longish ones off of the jugs and slopers to really hit the forearms, once my fingers were pretty much worked to failure, I went off to do some forearm curls to really hit the opposite forearm muscles, did several high rep sets of 20 per arm, think it ended up being 60 reps per arm, trying to mix it up so I do a good blend of strength and endurance stuff for the forearm/grip side of things at the moment.
Did the same core routine work again.

Thursday:
Usual bike mileage
Arms/elbows felt good, had too much to do after work to prepare for my girlfriends birthday on Friday, I knew the weekend was going to be a little bit of a wash-out in terms of training due to this so I just stopped worrying about it sorted my stuff etc

Friday:

partied with the missus, got drunk for the first time in about 3 months

Saturday:

Day off for a change, slept, got up late afternoon, caught her cold and cursed my damn man-flu!
Sorted out bits for her bike i'm building, got home then ate dinner then pretty much went straight back to bed, went out for some drinks with the missus, then....

Sunday:

Wallowed in my man-flu misery, then took the girlfriend out clothes shopping, gutted I didn't get down the wall today, but I don't think my blocked nose and temperature etc would have contributed much towards a decent session.

All in all, I feel it started off productive, but ended a bit shite (training wise), will do better.
Girlfriend is on holiday with a mate this week for a few days, so will use it as a chance to catch up assuming this cold shifts soon!

[Jaspersharpe]

I think you did more training on Wednesday than I've done this year so far. 

Be careful with your elbows. If you can avoid injury then I'm sure you'll improve quickly with your enthusiasm and commitment.