[shark]

Another consistent week and corrected last weekend’s indulgence and dropped a few pounds. Had intended to do some intensive arm/finger stuff but didn’t happen.

Goals: Austrian Oak, 10000 8a nu points
Current weight 11.3-5

M.
T.Early AM Yoga. Eve. 2hrs Invite to a garage board. Did endurance circuits and some bouldering.
W.PM. Weights. 1 hour. Useless on power stuff (Clean & Jerk and Power Cleans) but new PB (just, grip slipped) on Deadlift 145kgs
T.PM. Stopped off at Roaches after customer visit in Stoke. Beautiful day. Easy soloing on Upper Tier and bouldering at Lower Tier (Did Teck Crack direct)
F.Eve. Foundry 90mins. Bouldering on Wave.
S.Bouldering at Apparent North with Dolly and Lucien. Did the end section of Hampers twice but failed on full traverse. Did Skinless Wonder after bottling it a few times.
S.Might pop down to the Foundry or go in the Cabin in a minute...

Word is that Malham is drying nicely. Hopefully go up to meet Andy F there on Tuesday. Dan too..?

[tomtom]

oops!

Week 1.
Monday  - rest day after wall on Sunday
Tuesday - 4 * sets encores on a crap fingerboard... (set 7on 3 off & 4)
Wednesday - Evening session at Citibloc - good, really worked my shoulders - slightly tweaky LH golfers..
Thursday - Rest and longingly look at Beastmaker
Friday - Wall (stockport) routine bouldering session - barely repeated hardest stuff done, though managed one new prob
Saturday - Rest and stroking Beastmaker...
Sunday - 3 hours at the Cliff... Good warm up, failed failed failed miserably on Satans Steves wall but did DWR first go (a first!!) and repeated Dreamland (lush problem), arms ache, LH golfers fine...

Week 2....

[nai]

Goal - Font 7c this season.

M
T - an hour at Newstones after work, just a few easy problems.  Nice.
W
Th - Desperately wanted to get out but work denied me the time off.  Managed a couple of hours at Ramshaw at lunchtime, wanted to get on the Lust problems but they were wet.  Made enough progress on Ram Air to warrant a return visit.
F - couple of hours at a mostly damp RHS, found two dry problems I hadn't done, the slab's fairly straightforward in the right conditions but the Cave problem proper took a few goes and was a good workout in the end.
S Ached.  Over did it on food and wine in the evening.
S couple of hours at damp burbage, wasn't that inspired, tried stuff on Jason's block, didn't get up anything. Trashed my skin.

On reflection the easy volume on Tue and Thur was probably just what was needed after what seems like ages away from rock.  Just wish my skin would stop flaking off so easily.

[The Sausage]

Sunday Night: Read Power Club. Stabbed self in eye. Ah, much better now...

[marty]

Now in right topic at request of new landlord!

Dig the thread .. will highlight how little I am training.

Monday - nowt
Tuesday - nowt
Wednesday - beasted down the gym - running farlek one arm pull downs, chest and arms.
Thursday - why do I have a hangover after not drinking?
Friday - hangover marginally better
Saturday 3 hour gardening session
Sunday - pasted myself in the gym again.

God my life is so rock and roll. Consistently working til mid-night is probably not helping.

Anyone hitting a heavy session, I highly recommend the PHD VMax power. Any supplement that comes with a warning of pins and needles has to be a winner in my book.



oh, and weight is 11st 10lbs. Needs to get down to 11st 4lbs

Goals - anything at Dunby I have previously failed on (i.e. alot!)

1-2-3 on the smallest of the campus rungs in the garage.

Standing start to hitch hikers......

[Monolith]

Monday: N/A
Tuesday: N/A
Wednesday: N/A
Thursday: Intended to try project. Got surrounded by cows in field, warmed up but was too cold after warming up
Friday: Plant food
Saturday: N/A
Sunday: N/A

This pattern changes as of tomorrow. Feeling very light after 2 week 1200 calorie a day diet.

[Three Nine]

Good idea Simon.

Goals: Cider Soak, 7B, get strong for Europe

M 30min run
T Power on 45, some max deadhangs, 2 hours
W Resistance on 45, poor session, 1.5 hours
T BM Recruit then few repeaters 1.5 hour
F rest
S Bouldering at Cuttings, two v7s both extremely soft, didnt climb well
S Suprised myself by nearly doing Fighting Torque at cuttings but hadnt sorted the top, very frustrated/disappointed in myself

[Davo]

Good idea. Not sure i will manage to keep up with the posts (although I do keep a training log) but am really interested to see what other people do on a weekly basis.
Goals: Hmmm... Do a bloc 8A? Do a sport 8b. Probably fairly ambitious but gives me something to aim for.
Mon: Rest
Tues: Trowbarrow: Did Funk phenomena and Pit Problem Stand but fell off last move of Vitruvian Man twice.
Wed: Ogwen and Pass: Flailed in Ogwen and then went to Pass. Flailed on Bus Stop and finally got a workable sequence.
Thurs: Knackered
Fri: Rest
Sat: Trowbarrow again and again fell off Vitruvian Man about 4 times off last move! Doh!
Sun: Weighted Fingerboard session (4kgs)

Dave

[andybfreeman]

  a quality idea - hopefully just recording my training will help maintain training psyche.

Aim for year - Onde du Choc 7b

M - weights at home, chest flies and presses
T - decent bouldering session at TCA
W - knackered but still tried to boulder at TCA, easy circuits went ok but I couldn't touch even the easy woodie problems
T - planned rest
F - beer/cider after work meant that my planned beastmaker session got sacked off!
S - hangover and rugby on TV
Su - 5 hours at TCA, did a couple of new, for me, blues. got the moves on the red endurance circuit but nowher near the link. planning a dedicated session on Tuesday.

need to get some new batteries for my scales to check weight but i'm feeling lighter than i have since Christmas!

Andy

[SA Chris]

Bollocks, may as well set a baseline.

Aim, get some fitness back - down to 13.5 st, 13 st stretch

Do a decent 7a prob by middle of year

M - walk to work and back (1 hr total), hour of yoga ( a bit of a light session some newbie lasses at class).
T - walk to work and back (1 hr total),
W - walk to work and back (1 hr total) weight 13st 13.
T - walk from garage to work and back (1hr 30 total) did 15 mins on balance board as warm up for beastmaker session, but then bairn kicked off howling so session cancelled.
F - walk to work and back (1 hr total)
S - Sat in van for 5 hours
S - 1 hr 30 walk on beach with bairn in baby carrier. Sore shoulders.

[chris_j_s]

Previously avoided the UKC version of this because its a bit too cluttered up by runners (fair play to them but not what I'm interested in).

Weight: 63kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M - Rock rings - one arm pull ups, lock offs etc. followed by some max hangs on fingerboard.
T - Bouldering session at Ingleton, 3 more hard probs ticked off, good progress on another.
W - Morning, 3 mile run, evening pub.
T - Kendal wall, supposed to be PE session on routes but phenomenally busy so had a bouldering session instead - to try and focus on PE did repeating sets of as many problems back to back as possible within 5 mins then rest 3 mins.
F - Curry, beer and film
S - Took a look at St Bees South with wife. Underestimated time required scrambing over slippery rocks to get there (idiot) so only time to do a few quick probs before dark. 5 problems done including a 6B+ 2nd go which is a PB, so hopeful that 6C/6C+ should go with a bit of work.
S - Sodding great 12 mile, 8 wainwright walk in the lakes (Mrs is wainwright bagging).

[fiveknuckle21]

Previously avoided the UKC version of this because its a bit too cluttered up by runners (fair play to them but not what I'm interested in).

Weight: 63kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M - Rock rings - one arm pull ups, lock offs etc. followed by some max hangs on fingerboard.
T - Bouldering session at Ingleton, 3 more hard probs ticked off, good progress on another.
W - Morning, 3 mile run, evening pub.
T - Kendal wall, supposed to be PE session on routes but phenomenally busy so had a bouldering session instead - to try and focus on PE did repeating sets of as many problems back to back as possible within 5 mins then rest 3 mins.
F - Curry, beer and film
S - Took a look at St Bees South with wife. Underestimated time required scrambing over slippery rocks to get there (idiot) so only time to do a few quick probs before dark. 5 problems done including a 6B+ 2nd go which is a PB, so hopeful that 6C/6C+ should go with a bit of work.
S - Sodding great 12 mile, 8 wainwright walk in the lakes (Mrs is wainwright bagging).

 I gotta say buddy, if you can do one armers and not pull yourself up a Font 7a then something is seriously wrong...

[Johnny Brown]

Aims for year: VIII, 8a, 8A, E8

Weight: no idea. Heavier than I look

Mon: Stared at computer screen. Tried to go bouldering, but skin too glassy. Went birdwatching instead. Didn't see much, but heard an owl. Curry for dinner.
Tues: AM - stared at computer screen. PM - stared at windscreen. Sausage and chip supper - not bad.
Weds: Surmounted five boulders whilst heavily clothed. Strained wrists and back when body bridge went unexpectedly footless. Got scared, and shouted at snow. Chippy tea - great.
Thurs: Ten mile walk with weight. Broke it up by dangling from nooses around wrists, punching wall with alternate arms. Ditto with knees. Pizza meal - unsatisfying.
Fri: Six mile walk with weight, enlivened by some swimming. Late to bed, and no tea - hungry.
Sat: Twelve mile walk, lighter load - mostly boiled sweets. Big supper.
Sun: Easier day, four mile walk, no load. A few jelly babies. Proper sunday roast scene.

[shark]

Aims for year: VIII, 8a, 8A, E8

Well cover me in egg and flour and bake me for 14 minutes! 

I didn't expect you to join in. 

Go easy on the jelly babies and the 8a (or is it A) is as good as ticked.

[GraemeA]

Aims for year.

Do an E2 without gibbing excessively
Do a route 7a
Burn Sharkey off at bouldering

The latter should be a doddle even if I don't touch rock or plastic for 99% of the year

Last weeks prep
Monday. Porridge for breakfast, over-priced spag bol (or similar for lunch), 3 pints during happy hour, decent 4 course dinner with far too much wine. Skied all day with Norton
Tuesday. Ditto apart from big fall that resulted in still hurting rib
Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday. Ditto Monday except no big painful lob and harder work due to Norton insisting that we searched out every bit of 'fresh' he could find.
Sunday. Up at 3am for 12 hours of travelling hence shit food. Steak, garlic mushrooms, salad & big pudding for dinner (plus bottle of posh wine).

Conclusion:
Nothing positive for aims 1 & 2 but still on track for aim 3

[andy_e]

Goals: stu's roof left, bush bully as short term projects. 7c as long term

monday: buy leeds wall bouldering pass.
tuesday: train on new woodie
wednesday: whitehouses. ticked rageh omaar.
thursday: train on woodie
friday: train followed by 4 hours freestyle snowboarding
saturday: train longer juggy problems
sunday: train woodie
monday: train circuits and woodie
tuesday: probably involves training, wood, but might involve 4 hours snowboarding

[Krank]

Its good to see someone else has as much variation in there life as i do, nice one Andy, a fine training effort.

[chris_j_s]

 I gotta say buddy, if you can do one armers and not pull yourself up a Font 7a then something is seriously wrong...

Can't do one unassisted yet but progressing towards it. I still need assistance from my little finger on a small hold at the mo.

Previously been more focussed on sport than bouldering so I haven't got on anything harder than 6B+ yet but I'll be well chuffed if I can do 7A quite quickly!!

[Bernard Jefferies]

Aims for year: VIII, 8a, 8A, E8

Weight: no idea. Heavier than I look

Mon: Stared at computer screen. Tried to go bouldering, but skin too glassy. Went birdwatching instead. Didn't see much, but heard an owl. Curry for dinner.
Tues: AM - stared at computer screen. PM - stared at windscreen. Sausage and chip supper - not bad.
Weds: Surmounted five boulders whilst heavily clothed. Strained wrists and back when body bridge went unexpectedly footless. Got scared, and shouted at snow. Chippy tea - great.
Thurs: Ten mile walk with weight. Broke it up by dangling from nooses around wrists, punching wall with alternate arms. Ditto with knees. Pizza meal - unsatisfying.
Fri: Six mile walk with weight, enlivened by some swimming. Late to bed, and no tea - hungry.
Sat: Twelve mile walk, lighter load - mostly boiled sweets. Big supper.
Sun: Easier day, four mile walk, no load. A few jelly babies. Proper sunday roast scene.

Didn't fancy 8000m as well?!

[Johnny Brown]

Of course, but I've just lost my job. Gotta be realistic.

[Fiend]

Stop eating so much curry and chips you fat biffer  .

Like the reports of owls and shouting at snow.

I hope that's proper E8...

[Will Hunt]

Goals: E2 trad. 7b boulder. Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger.

Weight: ?

M: The Depot
T: Quick bike ride but had to stop as felt sick. Probably through not eating dinner.
W: Pub
T: The Leeds Wall. Climbed OK and took some falls. Did a 7a first redpoint which was pleasing.
F: 2x 12 miles on bike.
S: 10 miles on bike. 7 miles walk. ENORMOUS dinner (The River House Hotel in Malham does an incredible dinner. Booking in advance required) + 3 pints
S: 10 miles on bike. 4 miles walk.

[dobbin]

Aims for year: climb aretes

Weight: no idea. Heavier than Jim

Mon: Went to Stanage and climbed aretes, heard an owl. Curry for dinner.
Tues: AM - stared at Stanage. Climbed aretes (in head). Sausage and chip supper - not bad.
Weds: Surmounted five aretes. Strained wrists masterbating. Got scared. Chippy tea - great.
Thurs: Went to Stanage and climbed aretes. Broke it up by doing Brad Pit in trainers, punching sky with alternate arms. Ditto with knees (high kicks). Pizza meal - unsatisfying.
Fri: Went to Stanage and climbed aretes. Late to bed, and no tea - hungry.
Sat: Went to Stanage and ate sweets - mostly boiled sweets. Big supper.
Sun: Easier day, Went to Stanage and climbed aretes, no load. A few jelly babies. Proper sunday roast scene.

[Plattsy]

Goals: 7A boulder.
Weight: 13st 8lbs

M - Rest. Sore elbow.
T - 6 miles running - 48mins.
W - Rest. Cold coming on. 170 sit ups (10, 20, 30, 50, 30, 20, 10)
T - Foundry session. Back to normal after sore elbow. Can't breathe throw my nose though. Hate colds.
F - Beer.
S - Felt better. Aimless and lame circuit round Almscliff. Long time off rock. Took sometime to re-acquaint myself. Beer.
S - Rest and recovery.

Not a great week.

[G_M]

Goals: DKV2; easy Spanish ticks.
Weight: Less than 8st using Krank's scales.

M - Rest. Tout for friends.
T - Chapel: problem sets, endurance circuits and some opposites training.
W - Rest. Tout for partners.
T - Big wall routes (10 of).
F - Beer.
S - Curry. Tout for friends.
S - Found a friend! Scour guidebooks. Beer.