[Duma]

M - lunch, TCA, 90 min. Mainly trying the black in the roof, wasn't feeling great but scraped up it in the end. Bit of a half arsed session tbh. 12 hr night shift.
T - thought I could fit in an hour between errands and work, only managed 40 min. 4 whites, 1 black, flashed 3 of the whites. 12 hr night shift.
W - 12 hr night shift.
T - 12 hr night shift.
F - 4 hrs sleep, then aft Perch Quarry, repeated 2 of the 6a+'s from last week, then a bouldery 7b, The (Tear) Jerk 2nd go, cool move but nasty hold, and another nice easy, Back Against The Wall 6a+. Then 4 hrs sleep (ugh)
S  - Cheddar, Lion Rock. Back on Lions Pride. Sleep deprived but well rested. Humid and threatening thunderstorms all day, the first of which materialised during my first RP of the day, soaking the top arete, annoying as I got there feeling ok. Dried off quick though. 2nd go fumbled a relatively easy drop in to a side pull between the undercuts and the arete, pissed off as thought that might be it for the day, especially as the rain seemed to come in more persistently. Waited it out and got one more go, def more tired but fought through to put it to bed. Crown to celebrate.
S - aft, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 28 min. Hoooooot.

71.5 kg

[duncan]

Nice one Duma!

M - Swam in the murk 400m at 16C. Not quite as masochistic as last week. The usual hip flexibility work and shoulder conditioning.

T - Drove down to Weston. Stopped off at Woodcroft Quarry to climb with The Ski Instructor. Conditions were dreadful, 90% of the quarry was dripping wet, the remainder merely damp. Several 6a to 6b (Saudi Air), a good effort under the conditions I thought.

W - Attempting to get Mum some help from her GP. Saw a paramedic on the second visit and, very briefly, an actual doctor. Unfortunately there was a potentially dangerous mistake in the prescription which took a third visit to sort out. Fortunately I noticed before opening the tablets at home. The practice is rated Inadequate by the CQC. I know one word conceals a lot of nuance but the report indicates safety is one of the reasons for the rating and mentions issues with non-medical prescribing. Moral dilemma: I’ve not told Mum. She needed a considerable amount of chivvying to get to the GP in the first place and I don't want to further erode her fragile confidence. I'd like to put in an official complaint if it nudges the practice to improve their systems however it needs her permission and signature to do this. Any thoughts?

Swam one lap of the Marine Lake (~500m) to decompress from all this. Sea temperature is supposedly 12C but I’m sure the lake warms up faster.

T - Woodcroft Quarry with the Ski Instructor again. Not as wet. More easy sport ticks including Still Nice and Still Sleazy, the route of the crag, but one of the more optimistic three star ratings in the known universe. Back to London.

F - Hip flexibility. Walked 10km.

S - Fingerboard pickups, left only, all grips, to 36kg. Right elbow rehab. pick-ups to 22kg. Hip/leg conditioning: single leg squats, box steps etc.

S -  Swam in the murk for 400m (17C). Lovely! Hip flexibility, shoulder conditioning.

Another new climbing partner and some might count Woodcroft as a new crag. I’ve not climbed there before but only because it looked so shit when I walked on by to Fly or GO wall. It did not disappoint! It was good for some easy rehab. climbing and, at long last, my elbow seems to be on the mend. Off to N Wales for some easy trad. followed by Devon for a family Whitsun break.   

[webbo]

Either fake your mums signature   or a phone call to the CQC rather than making an official complaint explaining your situation with your mum.

[Aussiegav]

Monday -

Evening Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs. 
3 hangs at a total weight 78kg.
last hang total weight = 85.6kg
body weight 80.3kg
Effort level 7/10.
Felt good. Strength increasing.

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
Depot in the morning before work. 40mins on hard bouldering. Good session. Repeated some of my previous problems I’d set.

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 87.6kg. Felt good. 8/10 effort level
40min peloton Tabata ride

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Peter Dale in the morning with Mark & Phil. Beautiful day and thoroughly enjoyed this crag.
Ended up with 8 ties in total.
Will be going back to get back on Mark Rankine’s route, Kraken in Arms 6c. A couple others.

Sunday
Virgin Gym in the morning
3min rowing
4x5 Bench press 50kg4x5 pull down4x5Lat pull down 65kg
Hammer curls 3x10 4kg
3x8 Tricep pull down
Garden work. 50min Peloton ride in the evening

[Aussiegav]

Hammer curls 3x10 4kg

Should be 14kg. Not 4

[Duma]

I was hoping it was 104kg, with your new bionic elbow!

[Wellsy]

Monday - Rested

Tuesday - Indoor circuit problems

Wednesday - Fingerboard (not good!) Board (good) pulling training

Thursday - Rested. If anyone recalls my breakup from six months ago; well a few weeks after that we got back together. Things were good for a long time, and then they weren't, and on Thursday she ended things. It is for the best, but still sad and hard.

Friday - went to the depot and did some Purples. Low psyche. Skin condition on left hand flared up. Drank in evening.

Saturday - Nothing of note. Felt rather bad.

Sunday - Climbed, did some lifting. Had some drinks in the sun. Felt very variable.

Psyche is low. Will restart the training week and try to get back on it today. A difficult exchange of stuff is needed and then time to heal I think.

[Duma]

Hope you're ok Wellsy

[SA Chris]

M - not a load, usual pullups and push ups
T - as above + walk at lunch, plus walk to Chapelton to get bike for Cerys and run back with her on bike, 2km.
W - as above + walk at lunch
T - warm lunch run. pushed pace to see how it felt, 10km in 50 mins. It hurt. Board session in evening, felt pretty good, skin a bit soft.
F - evening run while Kyle at swimming. Felt a bit knackered, but did one of my favourite coastal paths before it got too overgrown 7.8km.
S - wall session, first in ages. Annoyed that they have reset with 2 pinks, a purple and a red problem on the same panel in the darkest corner. I may or may not have done them all. Ended up on new probs in the roof, managed new blue one in two overlapping links. Get it next go, just keep flipping heads on all the low percentage moves.
S - Afternoon session at Clash South. Skin sore from Sat, but managed to do the sloper eliminate, and pirahna pockets prob after 2 goes (luckily, it kills skin), then went to Yukon boulder, did Gold Roof 6B and Yukon Morning 6B+ second go, forgotten how good it is, only been on it once and flashed it about 3 1/2 years ago. Skin utterly gone.   

[Wellsy]

Thanks Duma. I will be. Honestly I'm just looking forward to not just thinking about it all the time. Its exhausting!

[duncan]

Thanks Webbo, I had the surgery complaint form and had looked at their website; I hadn't thought to contact CQC directly. Looking at the CQC website there seem to be ways of raising an issue with them without involving mum, as you would hope there would be.

The more I think about it, the keener I am to do something. It was a bad mistake. Different family members have different views about whether to involve Mum, my initial instinct was to do so, others are firmly against it. She doesn't seem to have a great attachment to her current GP practice and it was hard to get her to it so we will encourage her to change to somewhere closer to home.

[Adam Lincoln]

S  - Cheddar, Lion Rock. Back on Lions Pride. Sleep deprived but well rested. Humid and threatening thunderstorms all day, the first of which materialised during my first RP of the day, soaking the top arete, annoying as I got there feeling ok. Dried off quick though. 2nd go fumbled a relatively easy drop in to a side pull between the undercuts and the arete, pissed off as thought that might be it for the day, especially as the rain seemed to come in more persistently. Waited it out and got one more go, def more tired but fought through to put it to bed. Crown to celebrate.
S

Good effort Duma.

[SA Chris]

Thanks Duma. I will be. Honestly I'm just looking forward to not just thinking about it all the time. Its exhausting!

Sorry to hear this, it will hurt but give it some time. TBH it sound like it was a difficult one, and being out of it will be beneficial for you in the long run.

[monkoffunk]

M - Yoga. Sub max hangs.
T - Brief elbow physio am. Dropped car off for MOT. Run back 5km, in time to take over looking after kids before wife started work at 9. Good way to start day and running in the morning seems so much more appealing in this weather. Run back in afternoon to pick up car, felt like getting two runs in as a bit of a freebie.
Evening, repeaters 7 on 3 x6 reps  x1 set.
W - Yoga.
T - Elbow physio, inc one arm locks. Yoga
F - 10k run. Yoga.
S - Yoga. Repeaters. 7 on 3 off, 5.5 sets I think.
S - Yoga.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Lattice edge campusing. 4x AM session.
Tue - DL 531 week 5. Not sparky after a weekend of poor eating and lots of alcohol. Monday's session was an error, in hindsight, I was still tired. Avoid.
Wed - AM as usual; PM back work, push ups.
Thu - AM as usual; PM thruster and Croc Rows, mumble...
Fri - farmer's, pull ups, Lattice edge mixed grips.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - weights. Tired.

[Wellsy]

Thanks Duma. I will be. Honestly I'm just looking forward to not just thinking about it all the time. Its exhausting!

Sorry to hear this, it will hurt but give it some time. TBH it sound like it was a difficult one, and being out of it will be beneficial for you in the long run.

I think it is for the best yeah. Still shit but for the best.