While significant improvements in endurance performance and corresponding physiological markers are evident following submaximal endurancetraining in sedentary and recreationally active groups, an additional in- crease in submaximal training (i.e.volume) in highly trained individuals does not appear to further enhance either endurance performance or associated physiolog- ical variables [e.g. peak oxygen uptake (V. O2), oxidative enzymeactivity].(Sports Med 2002; 32 (1): 53-73)
1) That it should have its own cycle coming before a strength phase.2) That it should be done all the time alongside the other phases.As I see it 1 is based on traditional sports where you are generally training for either power or endurance - with proven results in many sports, and 2 is based on the idea that climbing is a power-endurance sport and that spending too much time on the stamina side alone will cause too much breakdown of the muscle/tendon/etc strength for the benefits it provides.
Climbing ability is not very dependant on endurance, it is however dependant on power endurance if your goals are routes or boulders take more than 30 s to complete.
Recent thinking in endurance sports is that low-intensity/high-volume work is not productive for fit athletes.Quote from: Paul B. Laursen and David G. Jenkins While significant improvements in endurance performance and corresponding physiological markers are evident following submaximal endurancetraining in sedentary and recreationally active groups, an additional in- crease in submaximal training (i.e.volume) in highly trained individuals does not appear to further enhance either endurance performance or associated physiolog- ical variables [e.g. peak oxygen uptake (V. O2), oxidative enzymeactivity]. (Sports Med 2002; 32 (1): 53-73)
One of the reasons for the dominance of aerobic training is probably that swimming is very much an 'arm and upper body sport'. All leg-dependant athletes on land have special training for the lower extremities plus the daily stimulation of walking and standing. A swimmer while not actually swimming recieves virtually no training of the upper body, and especially not of the 'proper' arm muscles. Perhaps this is one of the reasons for the distance and time the swimmer has to undertake to be successful, regardless of short or long distance performance. Compared with a runner, a swimmer could reduce the workout time if he could swim to and from school,work or training session.
ARCing (or lactic acid training) won't cause any muscle/tendon breakdown, neither will concurrent strength and endurance training cause any loss of strength.
Could you fit ARCing in the same session as strength training - i.e. after max difficulty bouldering or fingerboard? Or would this be counter-productive? When I lifted weights I was shy of doing cardio in the same session after heavy lifts because I was worried that the demands on the body were so different I wouldn't see great strength responses.
If one was to do anaerobic training like intervals could you do this in the same session as ARCing - and would it be best to do it before or after? ARC as warm-up for anaerobic training or as a warm-down?
Probably worded wrong on my part, my concern was that if you were on (for example) a routine like this:- 3 weeks ARC- 3 weeks strength- 2 weeks power- 3 weeks power endurance- 2 weeks peak- 1 week restThat the 11 weeks between strength phases would cause you to start from a much lower base than if there was only 8 weeks. I know if I don't lift weights for 11 weeks I come back much weaker!
First off I think your phase lengths are too short, particularly as there's no delineation in the strength phase between hypertrophy and recruitment before you move on to power. 3wks of strength training (no matter what aspect of strength you train for) will mainly just elicit neural gains, which come quick and go quick.
This is brilliant info Serpico - thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Can you explain, why? with regards stamina (20-25mins +) training why i appear to perform better on the fourth/fifth day on, even though i feel more tired?
Quote from: Serpico on February 12, 2010, 11:31:10 amFirst off I think your phase lengths are too short, particularly as there's no delineation in the strength phase between hypertrophy and recruitment before you move on to power. 3wks of strength training (no matter what aspect of strength you train for) will mainly just elicit neural gains, which come quick and go quick.What length would your phases be? Had a talk with Randall the other week and he was talking about a 3 month phase focused on aerobic capacity (which seems to be a bit like hard capilliarising), anaerobic capacity (15 move problems, 2 min rests) and max deadhangs; then into some PE and taper for your project/trip/comp.(Sorry if I'm misrepresenting your training knowledge Tom!)
Is recruitment not covered by the power phase then? I saw 'strength' as the hypertrophy bit (fingerboarding/20 move problems), with maximal (5-10 move problems) and campus stuff under power, am I missing something?
Quote from: abarro81 on February 12, 2010, 01:42:30 pmQuote from: Serpico on February 12, 2010, 11:31:10 amFirst off I think your phase lengths are too short, particularly as there's no delineation in the strength phase between hypertrophy and recruitment before you move on to power. 3wks of strength training (no matter what aspect of strength you train for) will mainly just elicit neural gains, which come quick and go quick.What length would your phases be? Had a talk with Randall the other week and he was talking about a 3 month phase focused on aerobic capacity (which seems to be a bit like hard capilliarising), anaerobic capacity (15 move problems, 2 min rests) and max deadhangs; then into some PE and taper for your project/trip/comp.(Sorry if I'm misrepresenting your training knowledge Tom!)3 months is a long time for ARC work IMHO. ARCing is ARCing, if you work harder you move over the limit into other energy systems.