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Brean Down - 7c (Read 3603 times)

northerngreg

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Brean Down - 7c
November 26, 2009, 08:51:06 pm
Hi y'all,

Looking for a suitable 7c to work this winter, does anyone know the state of L'Attraction Fatale on Ocean Wall at Brean Down? It gets *** but is on Ocean Wall, well away from the other sport routes so may have had little attention/bolts rotted into oblivion. Does anyone have any opinion on the best 7c there? Any style, just what you personally enjoyed the most.

Cheery ears.

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#1 Re: Brean Down - 7c
November 27, 2009, 10:40:32 am
A mate recommends storm warning, but it comes in at 7c+. The start is apparently quite tough.

Bobling

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#2 Re: Brean Down - 7c
January 01, 2010, 10:29:24 pm
Slightly  :off: but can anyone gives me decent directions on access for the Fort End Crag?  Guidebooks says 60M S of the landward gun emplacement but it didn't look that obvious when sniffing around there a few days ago.  Not sure if it is scramble-able or best to ab in.  Feel free to PM rather than hijack this thread even more.

Ged

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#3 Re: Brean Down - 7c
January 03, 2010, 06:56:08 pm
Bullworker is very good, but a hold has come off the crux making it a bit harder.  Still worth getting on though, if you're 6 ft or over you'll be ok, much shorter and it's pretty fierce. 

Storm warning is excellent, and probably proper 7c rather than 7c+.  The start is quite hard, but easier than many yorkshire/peak 7c cruxes.  You get a good shake out at the break, and the top wall is ace.  A much better route than Chullila. 

If you want something proper ard to work at, try start of prisoner of conscience, into crux of bullworker, then move right at the good shakeout to finish up the heinous top of el chocco.  8a probably.

Insummary, do storm warning

northerngreg

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#4 Re: Brean Down - 7c
January 04, 2010, 11:46:44 am
Cheers for the beta, Ged. Storm warning looks great and I'd rather a 'proper' 7c to work at, that way I know I'm not cheating myself!

Just got to get these elbows repaired and I'm on it.......

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#5 Re: Brean Down - 7c
January 04, 2010, 12:44:53 pm
Greg,

Are you the same Greg who sets routes at UCR or another one?

northerngreg

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#6 Re: Brean Down - 7c
January 04, 2010, 06:48:20 pm
Another one!

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#7 Re: Brean Down - 7c
January 05, 2010, 10:28:05 am
I thought you might be. If you want someone to hold your rope at brean, let me know as there's a 7a there that I'd like to have another crack at.

 

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