I just bought myself a new membership at the local climbinggym (hasn't happened in 5 years) with the idea of finally doing some proper training this winter. Since it's hard to see the trees through the forest of training knowledge, i thought it would be helpfull to write down short, practical tips to build a rough idea of what I should do/train first/start with/... Here are some things i came up with. If somebody else has some, please add as much as possible or correct me if I'm wrong.
fingerboard:
-max 3x/week
-max 4 weeks in a row the same fingerboard routine
-8-12sec hangs max
-training one grip per session adviced over doing a bit of everything (depending on the goal of course)
general:
-active resting (= doing some light climbing) instead of sitting in front of the TV
->still improvement in technique
-bouldering before chuffing = OK (in one session)
chuffing before bouldering = not OK
-a quick increase also gives a quick decrease when you stop using it (f.e. stamina,...)
a slow increase also gives a slow decrease (f.e.power)
->over the timespan of a couple of months: train power first, endurance afterwards
-training power (short and 80-100% intensity) = training musclefibre interaction. you don't build new muscles with this
training endurance (long sessions of 40-70%) = building new muscles
->if you don't have the appropriate muscles yet it's useless to train power
-training endurance is possible multiple days after each other, training power isn't
-think "i am Jerry moffatt" at least one hour a day
-train flexibility every day or it has no effect (only on warm muscles!)
-train antagonists to sort out any imbalance (pull-ups,...)
-only stretch your fingers after endurance training. Stretching after some serious bouldering can cause microcracks in your tissue to break even further.
Let's hope they're not too far off the mark.
BD
