[ega02hfj]

I know there are many similar topics to this… I’ve waded through them but none that I can find quite seem to apply to me… so apologies if this is repetitive but I’m hoping one or more of the gurus on here might be able to point be in the right direction, any feedback would be really appreciated.

I’m 25, been climbing for 18 months (am now an addict), and am really struggling to climb either Font 7a or F7a, despite having flashed a short F6c+ (at the edge) and a Font 6c (at the works).  This relates to indoors.  Outdoors I have climbed Font 6b+ but am yet to do any sport.

To cut a long story short – I climb 3 or 4 times a week, normally indoors, more bouldering than sport.  It feels like I’m not strong enough (whether fingers or general upper body) to do certain moves on Font 7a’s, and even though I know I can do all the individual moves on a F7a, I fail miserably on any move remotely difficult as I near the end of a route due presumably to a lack of stamina (I’ve only been doing sport for 3 months, prior to this it was all bouldering). 

I’m just really confused as to how to get better – all other sports I’ve played progression has come more naturally – and I’ve never put as much effort in with other sports as I have climbing.  I’m not looking for a quick fix, but just something to focus on – I’m finding it increasingly difficult to motivate myself because I can’t tell anymore whether what I’m doing is having a positive impact on my climbing.  So… should i be focusing more on sport or bouldering (i.e will one benefit the other more), is it finger strength (I can campus 1-5-8 on big campus jugs but can’t even do 1-2-3 on small rungs) in which case should I focus on that and how, or is Font 7a still a level you can achieve through simply climbing a lot and gradually getting better… and if so how would you structure the climbing?

Please Help!

[account_inactive]

If you can campus 1-5-8 you are a: a monster and b: not lacking arm/shoulder girdle strength!  It does sound like your fingers need to catch up with your arms.  Seeing as tendon/ligament adaption is slow (comparatively to muscle) this is no suprise. 

Using a fingerboard would be one way to go, but be careful, slow consistent gains will prevent you from getting injured.

Seeing as you have only been climbing for such a short time I would suggest just going climbing more on smaller holds.  This combined with mileage will help in the long term.

Hope this helps   

[JohnM]

Are you sure you can campus 1-5-8 on the big rungs!  I know the rungs are considered big but the pulling is still isolated through the finger.  I find it hard to believe you can have the strength to pull 1-5-8 on the big rungs but can't do more than 1-2-3 on the small rungs!?

[ega02hfj]

Thnaks Dylan that's great.

John - M.  yes, i can do 1-5-8 (just) if i'm leading with my right arm and about 1-5-7.5ish leading with my left... on the big rungs in the climbing works which are big!  I think it's because i'm well over 6ft but only weigh about 65kgs and my arms are bigger than my legs.  I've always had oversized arms as got obsessed with biceps as a vain 14 year old.  arms aside, i look like i've been assembled out of twiglets.

[slackline]

I think it's because i'm well over 6ft but only weigh about 65kgs

Ahhha, at 6ft, you can stand and reach the eight rung, try taking your feet off the ground   

and my arms are bigger than my legs.  I've always had oversized arms as got obsessed with biceps as a vain 14 year old.  arms aside, i look like i've been assembled out of twiglets.

We're you a body double in Last King of Scotland?

Can't find a decent still from the film so this will have to do instead...

[Nibile]

what the fuck is that?

[robertostallioni]

A babies arm? No thanks,  I want a knob like a middle-aged Greeks arm please.
Tssk. Some people.

[chillax]

Well grim slackers

[magpie]

Ewwww, leg arm! 

More on topic (I have no clue what I am on about really) I reckon a finger board is the way to go, like Dylan says.

[Houdini]

what the fuck is that?

Nibz' most coherent post to date 

[erm, sam]

I think after 18 months climbing, it has still got to be all about technique not strength. Have a look at "The Self Coached Climber" and work through a good number of the technique and body awareness excersises and I expect you would find your climbing improving, without your strength needing to improve. DMC reviews it here:http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2007/04/self-coached-climber-review.html

[The Sausage]

Are you sure this is really a plateau? Improvement will slow down (to a barely perceptable rate. If you're lucky) once you've been climbing a short while. Also, if you're a vaguely co-ordinated, skinny 6 foot bloke with moderate arm strength, you're going to rocket through to 6c+.
I'd say, go climbing, be honest with yourself about your weaknesses - and work on them. And get used to the fact that once you're in the 7s, breaking into new grades is desperate. Also, (not that you are necessarily) try not to worry about the grade too much. Consolidation at a grade is a great thing. If you're having fun, and trying hard, you'll continue to improve.

[tomtom]

I think bouldering grades are good because they have small ish steps unlike English tech grades - but its still a jump from 6c+ to 7a... In the last couple of years I've improved quite a bit (by my own suspect standards!) and I recon the move from 6c+ to 7a took about 6-8 months and from 7a to 7a+ another 6 or so months. By that I mean being able to do 2, 3, 4 or 5 at the higher grade not just one (that may be lowly graded or suit your morph). Just keep on plugging away. Like the other posters suggest try working on your weaknesses. It may well be that your core is letting you down. Switch training so one day is jugs and roofs another day crips and walls etc...
T

PS - give your fingers and tendons a chance to catch up too - and get outdoors - walls just knacker your tendons...

[Richie Crouch]

With arms that strong and your height and weight taken into account... just go go down to Stoney and dyno your way from font 6b+ to font 7b in a day 

You can repeat this trick in font too!