[Ged]

I've got use of a weights room at work, keen to start using it in addition to wall sessions.  What do we reckon is the best use?  Get some rock rings and adapt the pull down machine?  Any other simple (cheap) ways to adapt the pull down machine to smaller grips?

appreciated

Ged

[shark]

Save your fingers for the fingerboard and use the facility to work the rest of your body.

I'm still waiting for Serpico to design a dumbell and barbell complex for climbers (wad points await)

[Adam Lincoln]

I'm still waiting for Serpico to design a dumbell and barbell complex for climbers (wad points await)

He is busy working for a living. (For a change) 

[Adam Lincoln]

I use the following to what seems like great effect. I only do it after a days climbing. This enables me to pack more into a day, but also maximises rest before next climbing session/training session.

I do this for two weeks on, then two weeks off. I will concentrate on fingerboarding/campussing for the next two weeks, and so on.

I do three sets of each. The first one being a lighter warm up weight. I do 8 reps in a set, or sometimes failure depending on the climbing during the day.

Dumbell hammers
Dumbell curls
Dumbell shoulder press
Curling bar bicep curls
Tricep bar extensions
Bench press flat
Bench press incline
butterflys

[a dense loner]

do you do them in that order adam? that routine will make your arms look good but your chest will be pushing puny weights. ok if you're not borthered about a strong chest of course

[Serpico]

Save your fingers for the fingerboard and use the facility to work the rest of your body.

I'm still waiting for Serpico to design a dumbell and barbell complex for climbers (wad points await)

I did think about that the other day, but it wouldn't be a true dumbbell complex as you'd need a pullup bar as well. I might try and work something out over chrimbo...
In the meantime I've simplified my weights into an A and a B routine which I use on alternate training days .
The A routine is: Front Squats, Dumbbell chest press, Lying Lat rows (or tucked rows)
B routine: Dead lifts, DB Chest press, Pullups.
3 sets of each exercise done as a horizontal stack (1 set of each ex then repeat x3) for 8-10 reps.
Using a horizontal stack format means I can get through the routine in about an hour, whilst still getting the maximum amount of rest between sets of the same exercise. This makes it possible to do in the evening after cragging during the day.
I finish off with some deadhangs if the day hasn't been too finger intensive.
If I'm really pushed for time I'll do a single set of pullups and clean push press.
The thing to watch for when attaching rock rings to a pulldown machine is the friction created by the pulley system which means that the load isn't constant throughout the movement: Pulling>Holding>Lowering

[Falling Down]

>3 sets of each exercise done as a horizontal stack (1 set of each ex then repeat x3) for 8-10 reps.

Could you elaborate...  Does this mean you do every exercise in each set or do you 3 sets of each exercise?

[Serpico]

Horizontal stack = 1 set of Squats, then 1 set of  DB Press, then 1 set of Rows, repeated 3 times
Vertical stack = 3 sets of Squats, then 3 sets of DB press, then 3 sets of Rows.
In both cases you do three sets of each exercise, totalling 9 sets, but the horizontal stack means you don't have to rest between sets of the same exercise - you switch to a different body part. It's a more efficient use of time and has a cardio element to it.

[Adam Lincoln]

do you do them in that order adam? that routine will make your arms look good but your chest will be pushing puny weights. ok if you're not borthered about a strong chest of course

The bench press, flys, and dumbells press, along with lots of pull ups seem to keep the chest strong. I can bench a lot more than my own body weight so can't be that puny.

[Falling Down]

Thanks Serpico.. I'll post up a similar routine for bodyweight exercises.

[Stubbs]

I can bench a lot more than my own body weight so can't be that puny.

[Mr Cat]

do you do them in that order adam? that routine will make your arms look good but your chest will be pushing puny weights. ok if you're not borthered about a strong chest of course

The bench press, flys, and dumbells press, along with lots of pull ups seem to keep the chest strong. I can bench a lot more than my own body weight so can't be that puny.

while I'm no expert - I would have thought doing your chest etc first them your arms last would be better...

[Adam Lincoln]

do you do them in that order adam? that routine will make your arms look good but your chest will be pushing puny weights. ok if you're not borthered about a strong chest of course

The bench press, flys, and dumbells press, along with lots of pull ups seem to keep the chest strong. I can bench a lot more than my own body weight so can't be that puny.

while I'm no expert - I would have thought doing your chest etc first them your arms last would be better...

I am not doing it too make things easier, i am doing it to train. Plus you should mix it up, keep your body guessing.

[TobyD]

sets of about 8 reps seems like a fairly well established quantity for weights for climbing, (unless going for 1-3reps at as near 100% as possible)  but what sort of weight are people using for this?
As a figure, or as a percentage of 1 Rep Max?
Any thoughts on desired level of fatigue after 8 reps?

[Houdini]

The best use of a weights room is as a base for sniffing poppers and jacking off w/ naked bodybuilders, nay?