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Training For Power (Read 3616 times)

Peanuts

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Training For Power
November 13, 2009, 11:02:56 am
Right, so for some time now, I have been working the stamina for a base level of fitness and the endurance (because I'm a chuffer at heart), I have even lost a fair bit of weight but I have been putting off that crucial element that I need to move forward with my bouldering which means ...power.

I have been putting this off for some time as any time I start moving in the direction of the campus board my elbows start whinging that this was not in their contract and start working to rule (only coffee cup lifting and door opening, that sort of thing).

So I guess what I am asking is ... is there a way to develop power without destroying my elbows ? are there any alternatives to the campus board ?  I have a beastmaker for deadhanging but this is for strength development rather than power (I may be getting my terminology a bit mixed here).

Your thoughts appreciated.

Peanuts

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#1 Re: Training For Power
November 13, 2009, 11:05:48 am
Mods :  :oops:  meant to post in training etc but have very small brain could you move it for me ta!

BB

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#2 Re: Training For Power
November 13, 2009, 12:36:05 pm
I get a similar thing if I'm working on power, specifically doing lots of lock-offs. I find that I need to ensure that the antagonistic muscles are up to scratch. Working my triceps regularly during power training phases seems to sort out the muscle imbalance and help me avoid elbow pain.

lagerstarfish

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#3 Re: Training For Power
November 13, 2009, 12:38:55 pm
I was expecting a thread on how to prepare for government.  :shrug:

dave

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#4 Re: Training For Power
November 13, 2009, 01:41:48 pm
find some powerful slappy boulder problems and try to climb them? shouldn't knacker your elbows.

Nibile

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#5 Re: Training For Power
November 13, 2009, 09:29:21 pm
avoiding the fully locked off position should help your elbows.
consider that it could be a bit of an issue to train power with sore elbows, you don't want to aggravate the problem!
why don't you try to start developing some finger strength for a start? maximal dead hangs on various kinds of holds should build some power and gain time for your elbows to fully heal.

Peanuts

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#6 Re: Training For Power
November 14, 2009, 09:15:24 am
Very true, I dont want to aggravate my elbows, however, this is a long term problem with my elbows that I have to 'manage' rather than cure  :boohoo:  But like most climbers I dont want a minor thing like chronic elbow pain to prevent me from attaining the next magic grade  ;)

I quite like the idea of working the antagonistic muscles as this is something positive I can do.

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#7 Re: Training For Power
November 14, 2009, 10:05:55 am
First train for aerobic fitness, exercise bike for a month or so then some rowing building up to maxing out on a 10 minute row.

While you're doing this start doing paired exercises that is pro and antagonist exercises with low weights eg about 30% of your max and say 6 to 8 sets of 25 repitions.  This will strengthen your tendons, ligaments etc  Muscle grows much faster than the connective tissue can cope with the extra power and strength.

Do this for a month minimum perhaps more and then gradually increase the weight to about 60% of the max reducing the reps to say 12 and in four sets.  Remember to keep the exercise paired.

Do this for at least a month, then you're probably ready for power.

You have two sorts of muscle fibre (non cardiac) fast and slow twitch.  In basic terms fast twitch are fat power fibres and slow are thin stamina fibres.

Power is about work over time, and can be delivered by either recruitment of slow twich fibres, so the body 'fires' more shots at the same time or by development of fast twitch fibres.

Since you probably don't want to bulk up like a power lifter you're probably better advised to try and develop more power via recruitment, to do this get the muscle deeply tired by lifting weights at say 50% of max in sets of 20, if you can't get to 20 reduce the weight until you can complete say three sets.  Once you fail with fatigue i.e. get to about 15 rest for five minutes then up the weight by say 10 kg and try to get to 5 reps.  If you can do this easily you gave up on the previous phase too easily.

This will train the body not to build heavy fast twitch muscle fibre that will fail in 20 seconds (and how many problems are sub 20 second) but recruit a higher % of the slow twitch fibres to deliver the power.

Once you've built up the base i.e. % of max used to tire your muscles to say 75% you're ready for training power on a woody.  I'd suggest that going straight onto a woody without actually building the muscle mass, strengthening the joints and developing the recruitment is a waste of time and more likely to lead to injury rather than long term gain.

PS this is all from memory and my first degree 20 years ago, and I got a 'sport'smans 2.2' as I spent most of the time out climbing etc rather than in lectures.

 

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