[Tommy]

Due to injury, which has lead me to only be able to use my left arm, I'm currently stuck with taking out my climbing training frustrations with deadhanging.

I've not really done it much in the past, so this is a bit of a new experience for me! So, my question is those of you out there who've done it for ages (I've been going at it for 2 months) is - do you get weird unexplained mystery days where you're just totally shit??

I seem to get them ever now and again where's it's as if all the gains of the previous weeks have been wiped out. Do you just sack it off and watch TV? Or just make do and have what ever session you can?

[account_inactive]

Have a rest.  Come back strong

[rodma]

do you get weird unexplained mystery days where you're just totally shit??

I'm in the middle of a mystery year 

Seriously though, I think everyone gets those days, especially if you're training a lot.

I've been really weak all this week, but haven't forced myself to try harder. Hell, I even had a night off.

[dave]

I think mystery shit days are par for the course in climbing in general, if not life!

[SA Chris]

Yeah, I have those mystery days;  ones when I actually manage to do something impressive. The rest are just mysery days.

[JohnM]

I have just had three of those mystery days in a row.  Tried to fingerboard the other night but was struggling even in my warm up. Didn't try and force it in the end so I sacked it off.  Went to wall last night and struggled from the start but forced myself to stay for a couple of hours to get my 7 quids worth.  I just feel a bit drained and weak but can't put my finger on why.  Its either 1. Over training catching up with me. 2.  I might be coming down with something or 3.  Something to do with my new beard growth.  I'm going to shave the beard off tonight and have two rest days to try and eliminate two of the possible causes!

[adam_NE5]

I'm going to shave the beard off tonight and have two rest days to try and eliminate two of the possible causes!

Don't do it, the beard could be a phenomenal source of power, Kurt Albert has a massive moustache and he was a powerplant!!!

I have those days especially when it comes to climbing indoors, if its busy and crowded I just get really put off and frustrated and then can't pull to save my life!
I reckon the best thing to do in those situations is either 1) do easy problems/ training excercises and do a bit more than you normally would..or...2) sack it and eat something unhealthy!! 

[Tommy]

Have a rest.  Come back strong

Thing is, that doesn't explain it physiologically. Surely if you have adequate rest from your previous session for supercompensation, then the next session shouldn't be worse? I'm curious mostly because deadhanging has got to be one of the most techniqueless bits of training we do, so should therefore only be affected by physiological factors. I.e. I can explain shit days outside often because of poor mental state, lack of familiarity with surroundings, not being warmed up etc etc. But a deadhang is just plain vanilla!!

[saltbeef]

consider the variables in your life. sleep, mental attitude, work, booze, caffeine, food, etc. then eliminate them all and have no physiological variables