[PeterH]

All my "next to do" local problems have sit starts. On some, like this one 7A(?) http://www.peteranne.it/album/Climbing/4.%20Bouldering/Bouldering,%20Serra%20Oseli,%20March/slides/Pat%20&%20Cindy%205.html
 I CAN get my arse off the floor; on others I can't begin to. They all involve undercut/sidepull holds for hands and footholds that either seem to push you out as much as up, OR just place a riduculous load on your fingers/arms. If I can get my arse off the ground I can't unweight my hands to dyno for next hold.

What is best way to train for these? My home wall isn't this steep...it seems to be a mixture of finger strength and locking off elbows 90°

thx Peter

[weakdave]

To improve lock-off strength try doing some Frenchies. It is a normal pull-up with a lock off at the top then on the way down lock off at various stages (eg. 90 degrees and 120 degrees). Do theses in sets and either increase the numer of reps you are doing or the time you are holding the lock-off for as you improve

[tomtom]

I find that my core is really important with sit starts...

Plus being tall, I often have to use some alternative foot faggotry to get my arse off the deck - e.g. instead of starting face on and frogs legging a sitter, I may have to go at it sideways, coming off the outside edge of a foot etc..
Sometimes its just a hard tensing grunt of a move to lurch off the ground...

[PeterH]

I have done Frenchies in the past but have opted for 1 arm pullups from fully extended (hanging) to 90° (120-90° is the usual elbow angle for these sit starts), with a weight/pulley to help, also because with these, like the sit starts, your palms are facing inwards.

Now I just have to reduce the weight from the 20kg with which I can do 6 (meaning -10kg of bodyweight) to zero . Though my book says if you can do 6 with a 53 (63-10) weight, you should be abe to do 1 rep with 63kg weight i.e. no assistance...we'll see...

Peter

[dr crimp]

Think of that prick you most hated at school (visualisation) think of his face like a slapped arse. grasp the hold, focus on your target, think of his face and BANG! Pow! right in the kisser!! not that im bitter.............that fukin bastard.........(only jokin', didnt mean to shag his mrs! ) no, but seriously, visualisation helps and learn to distill the power into one move. happy crankin!

[The Sausage]

i can't quite believe what i'm reading...