Thanks for all the posts - thought I'd put up an update about what I got up to. Considering I had 10 days holiday with my wife and Toddler, I managed to touch rock 5 times in anger which was pretty good going...
Had two sessions at Carn Galver - loved that arete - didnt like the 8-9 tick bits I picked up afterwards! According to the friends we were staying with nearby, its an organic sheep farm - so no dips (which may or may not have any bearing on why etc..). Second visit was really quick as I started getting tick attacked again - but managed to grab the top in a last gasp throw that saw all other hands and feet flail off :D excellent fun! Ticks crawlign about on my mat made working the sitter less appealing... one for winter...
On the Monday, we went to meet up with my sister in law and young family who were (coinicdenctally) at St Ives... Beach family/toddler scenes - but having four parents and two little ones meant I was able to sneak off to Clodgy for a couple of hours in the afternoon...
I think there should be some new Olympic sport - similar in set up to the modern pentathlon etc.. where you have to (A) carry loads of shit down to the beach (most of which isnt used) rammed into a bouldering mat and under every arm (B) Sprint 1-2km cross country to get to a bouldering spot - with pads (C) Climb f*cking as hard as you can in the 45-60 min you have left (D) run back again (E) sucessfuly negotiate ice cream stall and return to beach...
Anyway, Clodgy was great - quite the contrast from the Granite!!!! slick and black... 20 degrees+ and sun didnt help! Give having only one pad, the orientation and the sun after warming up I got stuck into Boomerang. Didnt get very far :D but after 45 min or so worked out the top out and all the second half moves. First move felt HARD!
Next day - we had a day at Gwynver. Great beach (although the only Dog beach in the area it would seem... anyway) I was 'given' an hour to go and boulder. Which meant - 10 min run to the end, quick boulder, 10 min run back. I loved the rock at Gwynver. Grimer moans about it a bit in Boulder Britain, but I had no problems finding things. Tide was in-ish so headed to the problems on the point. That 4/5 flake crack is just superb climbing.. that alone is worth the run in and back... I then started on the crimpy wall around the corner (very limited time) and failed on the easier stuff on the left - then managed the 7A on the RH (closest to beach) end using some hard crimping and a lank move. Great sketchy finish - and I then nearly fell off the edge when a nearby bloke fishing (that I hadnt spotted) started having a chat with me :D
Thursday - back to St Ives (family beach/Tate etc..) much busier - but managed to negotiate another 90 min away and went back (haing watched a couple of vids) to get Boomerang done. hahhahaha as if
Enjoyed working it though and got all the moves overlapping except the first throw... just couldnt hang onto those crimps/flakes long ennought to launch. Good times.
Overall a really good trip - thanks again for the pointers and info on Zennor - I just didnt have the time in the end.
