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places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: Bunchuk on November 02, 2009, 04:00:27 pm

Title: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Bunchuk on November 02, 2009, 04:00:27 pm
Hey All

I was down at Bosigran on saturday and as I especially despise multi-pitch climbing I had a run around the crag and surrounding area in search of any decent bouldering to be had. It's pretty bleak down there boulder-wise but I did come across two class problems, the first one is down and around the corner from the main cliff/congregation area.

(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g73/OllyBurrell/Still1.jpg)

Its probably about V3/4 and pretty decent. (a short video clip is also viewable here: http://www.climber.co.uk/gallery/picture.asp?id=2547 (http://www.climber.co.uk/gallery/picture.asp?id=2547).)

The second one is an absolutely fantastic V4/5 with an incredibly powerful starting move, it's on this boulder:

(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g73/OllyBurrell/BosigranBoulder2.jpg)

which is located just right of the path leading to Bosigran main area, just as it begins to get rocky.

Does anyone know if these problems are documented? Or has anyone here climbed them? Just thought I'd give a shout out in case anyone found themselves in a similar bored position being dragged to the cliffs by trad fanatic friends!

Jamie
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: A Jooser on November 03, 2009, 12:06:44 pm
The first problem is the right side of the cave flake below the Nameless rake. It was shown to me years ago and I was told it was a problem climbed by Mr Frank Cannings (from standing at 5c) decades ago Ė there's a very long history of bouldering in Cornwall. I'm sure the sitter has been done by plenty of people in the past and it's finished by topping-out, on to the top of the flake, then traversing off.

I don't recognise the second problem.

There is plenty of bouldering at Bosigran but it's not documented so you'd have to ask around. There is a good long traverse wall bellow the Big Top/Trapeze buttress, and two traverses (a low seam and a higher crack) from Doorpost Variation Start to LBJ's start. There are loads of other traverses along the bottom of the main cliff too.

The walls at the base of Kafoozalem/Evil Eye/Raven Wall area offer the best straight-up problems; there is also a good fist-jamming crack here. Further bouldering can be found on the outcrops at the top of the crag. Finally the sea level ledges have some excellent highball problems (as mentioned previously on these forums).
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Bunchuk on November 03, 2009, 01:19:18 pm
Thanks for the info, I did figure they had all been climbed before just thought I'd have ask around as they were really nice problems in an area I'd never heard of for having bouldering before. The second problem is definitely worth a seeking out, with some quite powerful moves up the twin overhanging cracks and lip of the arete. It's basically the first piece of rock you meet on the way down to the crag.

I also had a look on the tors up on the hill on the other side of the main road, is there anything up here? There looked to be a decent, quite holdless, hanging prow that would have yielded a good problem but the landing was terrible and I didn't have a mat so skipped it.

thanks again
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: A Jooser on November 03, 2009, 01:42:44 pm
The prow you're talking about is on Carn Galver and goes at V4 from standing or a hard V6 from sitting. It doesn't really have a name but has become known as Carn Galva Arete since the sitter was added...

(http://web.me.com/andrewwhall/Blocart/documentation_files/IMG_0744.jpg)

(http://web.me.com/andrewwhall/Blocart/documentation_files/carn%20gow_0047.jpg)

It's worth checking out the Carn Galva and Fresh Air videos in the movies section of the Blocspenwith blog (http://www.blocspenwith.co.uk). Thanks for the extra details on the second problem, I'll make sure I search it out when I'm next out that way.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Bunchuk on November 03, 2009, 02:46:45 pm
No problem, I thought it V4/V5 but am unaccustomed to bouldering in Cornwall so it might be easier. Please do check it out whenever you go back there, I would love to hear what you think of it. The prow pictured was not the one I saw, however it appears to be a much better problem and I wish I had seen it!  I'll go check out the videos now.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 27, 2019, 07:41:26 pm
10 year thread bump!!!

Iím on hols staying about a km from Bosigran and noticed on Ukc a little pin for some bouldering above the road at Carn Galver. A bit of googling later I found this thread so wondered if anyone had any more info or any more development documented round there (Carn Galver or anywhere near..)??

👍👍
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Fiend on June 27, 2019, 08:04:07 pm
I hear the multi-pitching is pretty good.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: andy popp on June 27, 2019, 09:31:31 pm
I hear the multi-pitching is pretty good.

Yes, I'm dismayed by the OP. Who finds themselves at Bosigran and refuses to go tradding?
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: SA Chris on June 27, 2019, 10:28:23 pm
A boulderer?
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: old cheese on June 27, 2019, 10:28:44 pm
10 year thread bump!!!

Iím on hols staying about a km from Bosigran and noticed on Ukc a little pin for some bouldering above the road at Carn Galver. A bit of googling later I found this thread so wondered if anyone had any more info or any more development documented round there (Carn Galver or anywhere near..)??

👍👍
I have bouldered near there. If you park at the carpark next to the counthouse, walk south out of the carpark along the road until you see a path leading away from the sea on the other side of the road. It leads up a valley and you can see some boulders up and left. The main boulders are a small cluster below the top of the tor. Not loads there but a great 7a/+ sit down arete, Carn Galva arete. It is quite obvious. Take a brush as some of that stringy sea lichen grows over the top of the boulders. There are some warm ups about and may be some more stuff on the top of the tor. Look for the ĎWest Cornwall training and boulderingí Facebook page for locals knowledge. Worth seeking out the weapon too which is a little further south. 7b+ ish and sod all else though
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 27, 2019, 10:37:05 pm
Thanks Old Cheese. Top knowledge. Iíll have a look on FB.

Now - yes there is some top trad around there - and even I have done some about 25 years ago - and a little more 10 years ago. A group solo of commando ridge is a good memory....

But I have no rope, rack, harness - and have a non climbing partner and 3 year old boy - so sneaking an hour or two up the road every other day to loose some skin is my opportunity to exorcise my climbing needs.... oh - and in st Ives while theyíre pottering around the Tate (is quite like to do that too - but needs must.. :D )
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: A Jooser on June 28, 2019, 12:47:21 am
Old Cheese's directions will get you to Carn Galva Arete. The footpath up the valley starts at the cattle grid between Bosigran car park and the cream tea place at Rosmergy. Video of the problem...

https://vimeo.com/49755014

Bouldering on top of Zennor Hill is also good. When are you likely to be in St Ives?
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Fiend on June 28, 2019, 08:55:34 am
That does look cool. Arguably even better than bouldering at Carn Gowla itself.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2019, 09:04:00 am
Bouldering on top of Zennor Hill is also good. When are you likely to be in St Ives?

👍 thanks for the vid - know what to look for now.

Not sure when with St Ives timings are a bit random! Though the forecast is great for the week ahead. Sister in law by coincidence is there at same time as is so weíll be there at some point...
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Andy W on June 28, 2019, 09:12:19 am
Thanks Barney for a reminder of nice cool bouldering conditions...currently stewing in the heat! I've changed the vid title  from 'gowla' to 'Galva'
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Franco on June 28, 2019, 10:56:09 am
You won't  have time for bouldering with the lines at carn vellan, Sennen new routes and the direct on teahupo'o in need of shunts. Don't forget your static tom!
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2019, 11:38:29 am
Too Busy reading fireman Sam books to our 3yo under Chun Quoit for any of that right now. 😃
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2019, 09:08:48 pm
Thanks Barney for a reminder of nice cool bouldering conditions...currently stewing in the heat! I've changed the vid title  from 'gowla' to 'Galva'

Great problem that ArÍte. Had an hour on it today. Thought Iíd figured out the top but didnít want to commit (one pad no spotter) but now had a look at the vid and was doing it a bit different (reaching for sloper near top around 25-30 Cm away from the ArÍte...

Got all week so Iíll be back :)

20 degrees and hazy sun probably doesnít help!!
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Andy W on June 28, 2019, 09:36:09 pm
Thanks Barney for a reminder of nice cool bouldering conditions...currently stewing in the heat! I've changed the vid title  from 'gowla' to 'Galva'

Great problem that ArÍte. Had an hour on it today. Thought Iíd figured out the top but didnít want to commit (one pad no spotter) but now had a look at the vid and was doing it a bit different (reaching for sloper near top around 25-30 Cm away from the ArÍte...

Got all week so Iíll be back :)

20 degrees and hazy sun probably doesnít help!!

Nice one, I imagine hot temps donít help. I think there may be a better way of doing the top out than I did in the vid, Iím sure someone has done it more statically. I do remember missing the top and flying over my spotters head on the FA attempts. Zennor moor also has some good stuff and Zennor Fool down at sea level.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2019, 09:59:43 pm
Any info on Zennor moor/hill Andy? Google showed some old (dead) links...
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: kingholmesy on June 28, 2019, 10:32:28 pm
Zennor Hill: OS ref 463 384.
From village of Zennor, walk balk to main rd (B3306) then go left, in direction of St Ives, until a public footpath on the right leads across the moor to the hill.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: kingholmesy on June 28, 2019, 10:42:01 pm
Foreign Affairs. V7. Sit start to slopers & slap over the top.

Agony Aunt. V7. A low traverse along a thin horizontal seam.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 28, 2019, 10:43:18 pm
Cheers Ted.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: kingholmesy on June 28, 2019, 11:22:52 pm
No worries. Iím not Ted though!  :lol:
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: cheque on June 28, 2019, 11:48:12 pm
Thereís surely loads of good bouldering in Cornwall. Are there plans for a guidebook?
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: A Jooser on June 29, 2019, 12:53:11 am
Following link to Andy's old blog should take you to info on some of the problems on Zennor Hill
https://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-04-20T19:11:00Z&max-results=7 (https://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-04-20T19:11:00Z&max-results=7)

Foreign Affairs looks like this...

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UuMiqNAIO-s/Ra0Poju4I9I/AAAAAAAAAAM/XVoM36aFG_c/s320/ChrisFA%2528LOWRES%2529.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UuMiqNAIO-s/Ra0Poju4I-I/AAAAAAAAAAU/dF9HBllbV9g/s320/UEImages-AndyFA.jpg)

And is on the block in this video (Foreign Affairs' starting hold is the big break Andy steps into at 15 second mark)...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHNNfRNTiuo

The thin seam of Agony Aunt is on the other side of the triangular block which can also be seen on the right in the vid. These boulders are on top in the middle of Zennor Hill, which is best reached by the long footpath that contours around to the top of the hill from the road at Eagle's Nest/Tregarthen (the two houses on the roadside set high up on the St Ives side of the village). If you are lucky the Moomaid Ice Cream shipping container might be opening up for business this weekend too.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 29, 2019, 07:07:27 am
No worries. Iím not Ted though!  :lol:

Oops! 😬
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on June 29, 2019, 09:31:51 am
Thanks Again Jooser & Andy. 👍
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Andy W on June 29, 2019, 04:20:49 pm
Following link to Andy's old blog should take you to info on some of the problems on Zennor Hill
https://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-04-20T19:11:00Z&max-results=7 (https://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-04-20T19:11:00Z&max-results=7)

Foreign Affairs looks like this...

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UuMiqNAIO-s/Ra0Poju4I9I/AAAAAAAAAAM/XVoM36aFG_c/s320/ChrisFA%2528LOWRES%2529.jpg)

(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UuMiqNAIO-s/Ra0Poju4I-I/AAAAAAAAAAU/dF9HBllbV9g/s320/UEImages-AndyFA.jpg)

And is on the block in this video (Foreign Affairs' starting hold is the big break Andy steps into at 15 second mark)...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHNNfRNTiuo

The thin seam of Agony Aunt is on the other side of the triangular block which can also be seen on the right in the vid. These boulders are on top in the middle of Zennor Hill, which is best reached by the long footpath that contours around to the top of the hill from the road at Eagle's Nest/Tregarthen (the two houses on the roadside set high up on the St Ives side of the village). If you are lucky the Moomaid Ice Cream shipping container might be opening up for business this weekend too.

Thereís also Ďneedles in my eyesí unrepeated I think, which starts on the same jug as agony aunt but goes right or more straight up via small sloper. About 7b I thought at the time.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: tomtom on July 13, 2019, 07:30:21 am
Thanks for all the posts - thought I'd put up an update about what I got up to. Considering I had 10 days holiday with my wife and Toddler, I managed to touch rock 5 times in anger which was pretty good going...

Had two sessions at Carn Galver - loved that arete - didnt like the 8-9 tick bits I picked up afterwards! According to the friends we were staying with nearby, its an organic sheep farm - so no dips (which may or may not have any bearing on why etc..). Second visit was really quick as I started getting tick attacked again - but managed to grab the top in a last gasp throw that saw all other hands and feet flail off :D excellent fun! Ticks crawlign about on my mat made working the sitter less appealing... one for winter...

On the Monday, we went to meet up with my sister in law and young family who were (coinicdenctally) at St Ives... Beach family/toddler scenes - but having four parents and two little ones meant I was able to sneak off to Clodgy for a couple of hours in the afternoon...

I think there should be some new Olympic sport - similar in set up to the modern pentathlon etc.. where you have to (A) carry loads of shit down to the beach (most of which isnt used) rammed into a bouldering mat and under every arm (B) Sprint 1-2km cross country to get to a bouldering spot - with pads (C) Climb f*cking as hard as you can in the 45-60 min you have left (D) run back again (E) sucessfuly negotiate ice cream stall and return to beach...

Anyway, Clodgy was great - quite the contrast from the Granite!!!! slick and black... 20 degrees+ and sun didnt help! Give having only one pad, the orientation and the sun after warming up I got stuck into Boomerang. Didnt get very far :D but after 45 min or so worked out the top out and all the second half moves. First move felt HARD!

Next day - we had a day at Gwynver. Great beach (although the only Dog beach in the area it would seem... anyway) I was 'given' an hour to go and boulder. Which meant - 10 min run to the end, quick boulder, 10 min run back. I loved the rock at Gwynver. Grimer moans about it a bit in Boulder Britain, but I had no problems finding things. Tide was in-ish so headed to the problems on the point. That 4/5 flake crack is just superb climbing.. that alone is worth the run in and back... I then started on the crimpy wall around the corner (very limited time) and failed on the easier stuff on the left - then managed the 7A on the RH (closest to beach) end using some hard crimping and a lank move. Great sketchy finish - and I then nearly fell off the edge when a nearby bloke fishing (that I hadnt spotted) started having a chat with me :D

Thursday - back to St Ives (family beach/Tate etc..) much busier - but managed to negotiate another 90 min away and went back (haing watched a couple of vids) to get Boomerang done. hahhahaha as if :) Enjoyed working it though and got all the moves overlapping except the first throw... just couldnt hang onto those crimps/flakes long ennought to launch. Good times.

Overall a really good trip - thanks again for the pointers and info on Zennor - I just didnt have the time in the end.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: A Jooser on July 13, 2019, 04:12:21 pm
 :2thumbsup:

Great to have some feedback on the area.

Sorry not to have warned you about the ticks. They are getting to be a problem everywhere. I think it's possibly a mix of parasite treatments for livestock no longer being done as chemicals are banned and animals being grazed far more often on land that they rarely (if ever) used to be put on. This is certainly the case for the moors around Carn Galver as regular grazing here only started within the past 10 years since the arrival of the cattle grids. Bosigran also has become a tick haven. All in all you're right that Carn Galver Arete is best in the winter - not just for tip-top moorland granite friction conditions but also to avoid the biting critters!

Looks like you managed to find some of the best at Gwynver too. I like it there, but I know where the good problems are which certainly helps.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Hoseyb on August 04, 2019, 10:28:49 pm
Just been down staying in great bossallow next to the chun quoit.  Only got out twice,  once to boulder on Carn above bossallow. This was quite good and chosen for flat grass landings as no mat. Failed to get the nicest line which used a crystal like a kids drawing of a cock and balls. Too hot and humid.  Second bit of rock touching was at Bozigran and was mainly made up of soloing black slab. Great fat boulder arete on the summit above it though. Too hot to pull on. Bouldered the easier overhanging bloc above kafloosalem area instead.  Will put pics and info on the blog once I've pulled it together.  Certainly loads of potential for a penwith guide though,  especially if you could list those doable padless for the dad's like me.
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Motown on August 05, 2019, 09:07:53 pm
Ticks... One in the balls after a couple of days trad there at the end of July. Possible bites on legs as well. Beware.  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Hoseyb on August 09, 2019, 10:49:00 pm
Blog of a couple of boulders.
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/08/cornish-interlude.html?m=0 (https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/08/cornish-interlude.html?m=0)

Be interested to know if anyone else has bouldered at The Carn? Only a couple of lines but all good fun
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: A Jooser on August 09, 2019, 11:34:11 pm
I have walked up to the Carn at Morvah with my rock shoes but I can't be sure I ever put them on to do anything. I think I was disappointed, but your video makes it look larger than I remember it being.

The sitter on the diagonal black vein in your photo from the top of Bosigran goes at about V2/3 English 6a-ish - credit to Carn Brea Bob for doing it first I guess, but I can't really remember.

Top marks for spotting some Cornish in the wild by the way!...

(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qz1v_sWIqQM/XUljJ-8I2QI/AAAAAAAACLg/8xlJRgimmPISyjZOHH4aNMw24zzbyW3XACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC_2118.JPG)

'Have a good life'
Title: Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
Post by: Hoseyb on August 10, 2019, 10:21:15 am
It was only the first bloc that had height, and I was keen to climb, and was padless.  However,  saying all that the moves were enjoyable,  good top outs too. I'm 5'8" ish if that helps with scale.

Has anyone done the phat arete above black slab?
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