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Finger strength plateau (Read 4864 times)

weakdave

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Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 09:04:45 am
I am bouldering, fingerboarding and doing a bit of weight training but my fingers dont seem to want to get any stronger. I am climbing around 6c/c+ and want to break through into the magic 7s. Anybody got any advice or different training that I can give a go? :please:

Plattsy

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#1 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 09:21:17 am
I'm gonna be interested in the replies to this thread myself.

Probably going about it the wrong way but rather than concentrating on my fingers (which I hope will continue to get stronger slowly by just bouldering and hopefully without injury) my current train of thought to improve is to lower my body fat and train my core muscles. Therefore meaning less dead weight and better body tension.

Obviously if you're trim and a front lever fiend then ignore what I just said.

Krank

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#2 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 09:59:54 am
Anybody got any advice or different training that I can give a go? :please:

This probably aint what you want to hear but its milage at your grade, i think.
I spent many, many eveneings sat under a steep board trying to get strong and bouldered up to the giddy heights of 7a+ last winter. I then spent the entire summer climbing trad, everyday for 3/4 months, and got weak as a kitten but crafty as a fox.
At the start of september i started to do a little bouldering again and climbed my 2 hardest problems to date, both 7b+, thats a 2 grade jump from what i can only think is improved craftyness.
Climbing really is the best training for climbing, who would have thought it :-[

Jim

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#3 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 10:07:53 am
What Krank sez plus doing pull ups, In the low 7's, the holds aren't particular small so having arm and shoulder strength is more important, don't worry about your core etc... I am a quite heavy and have a 1 pack rather than a 6'er but my big guns seem to manage to drag me up most stuff. Finger strength takes ages to get,a lot longer than arm strength.
Get out climbing... a lot

cofe

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#4 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 10:40:36 am
Get out climbing... a lot

best advice really. and don't be put off by the styles of climbing that you get spanked on.

Drew

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#5 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 11:02:50 am
I concur.

However in the name of SCIENCE, it would help to know what rock type you're regularly climbing on.

Basically if you're climbing on Grit (which I reckon most members of this here forum do), then finger strength will help a bit, but not much more than arms strength. Something which would really help is guile



Basically you need the ability to find a trick to the sequence, which suits you. That an footwork. Gritstone climbing is generally much easier if you can use your feet on either very small, or very slopey holds. Take the weight off your arms, either partially or wholly.

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 11:59:48 am
My advice would be to learn to use your arms as legs, and your legs as arms, before you worry about fingers.

Doylo

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#7 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 12:24:36 pm
I am bouldering, fingerboarding and doing a bit of weight training but my fingers dont seem to want to get any stronger. I am climbing around 6c/c+ and want to break through into the magic 7s. Anybody got any advice or different training that I can give a go? :please:

I think you just need to be patient and keep up what your doing. Climb as much as you can and keep up the training you'll make the breakthrough. 

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 12:45:39 pm
My advice would be to learn to use your arms as legs, and your legs as arms, before you worry about fingers.

Deeeeeeep man. Only when you snatch pebble from my hand with your foot will you be ready to worry about fingers.

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 01:00:28 pm
I meant more learn to use your heels, use palms more, and rather than doing pull-ups learn to swing round a straight arm.

lagerstarfish

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#10 Re: Finger strength plateau
October 30, 2009, 11:17:25 pm
use your arms as legs, and your legs as arms

I've seen The Last King of Scotland. Nasty way to go.

 

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