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Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b (Read 4118 times)

Rocksteady

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Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
October 26, 2009, 04:57:10 pm
I hesitate to cite 8a.nu as a news source. Nonetheless, they're reporting this act of waddage from the youthful uber-wad:


Adam Ondra has done his hardest route, the FA of Marina Superstar in Domusnovas, "So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful line 35m line in very steep cave. It took me 4 days this year and 3 goes last year. Thanks to Matteo Marinini for bolting and to whole Cagliari!" He also onsighted four 8a+ and Il Verbo, 8b which he marked as "Pooorly/Mainly Chipped". The 16-year-old set a new scorecard record by 13 480 points, i.e. he has had a steady progress for 8 straight years. Picture from Vojtech Vrzba is coming up probably tomorrow.

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#1 Re: Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
October 27, 2009, 10:25:56 am
Doesn't seem like anyone's much interested in this, or just accept 9a+/b as par for the course for the bespectacled wunderkind. But with him calling it the hardest route he's done, it could be up there with the hardest in the world.

More info, courtesy again of 8a.shint. They have pics but I'm too much of a computer dunce to embed them with the text, or else they're proprietary or summat  :shrug:. Here's the further report:

www.8a.nu
 
Vojtech Vrzba reports with pictures from the last 9a+ by Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar at Sardinia.

A 35m, extremely overhanging route bolted by Matteo Marini in Domusnovas village about 40km from Cagliari. Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ in nearly horizontal roof to an edge of the cave.
 
Several hard moves with heel hooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6m! Adam sent this route after 4 days of working on it. During his tries two tufas broke in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too!
 
 
That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b. During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+). In the meantime he had onsighted seven routes from 8a to 8b.


www.8a.nu




Jaspersharpe

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#2 Re: Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
October 27, 2009, 10:32:43 am
Doesn't seem like anyone's much interested in this, or just accept 9a+/b as par for the course for the bespectacled wunderkind. But with him calling it the hardest route he's done, it could be up there with the hardest in the world.


Judging by Sue Pollard's conservative grading/downgrading of previous routes I wouldn't be surprised if you were right.

I can't find the pictures.

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Doylo

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#4 Re: Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
October 27, 2009, 10:41:34 am
Try this link for the report and pictures:

http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D5933

I've been there, its pretty meaty! That tunnel is cool, its a 15 minute walk to the other side.

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#5 Re: Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
October 27, 2009, 11:48:22 am
Seepage. Snapping holds. Who says he wouldn't like the routes in the UK?

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#6 Re: Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
January 04, 2010, 11:04:49 pm
A Present for the Future (9a/+ FA A. Ondra 02/01/2010)

 :bow:

(Tons of pics and vids, too lazy to post them).

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#7 Re: Adam Ondra first ascent of a 9a+/b
October 20, 2010, 08:51:15 am
Interview and FA of L‘étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+) at Ceuse


 

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