UKBouldering.com

What kind of finger injury? (Read 10197 times)

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 645
  • Karma: +72/-1
#25 Re: What kind of finger injury?
November 02, 2009, 06:02:59 pm
The thing with fingers is this - they are basically very static structures, biomechanically. You load them, and they either take the load, or something breaks (it may only be a few fibres), hence injury. Similarly, your options in terms of treatment are either a) surgery, or b) avoiding exacerbating the injury and gradually increase the loads placed on it while it repairs itself to minimise scar tissue build up and ensure good alignment of the fibres as it heals.
In your case, you don't need surgery. Which leaves you with option b). As I put in my previous post, the rate at which you increase the load is very subjective, and is based on symptom response. If you aren't in denial about it hurting when it hurts, and if you are patient and systematic, you should be able to manage this yourself. In fact, nobody else can really manage it for you, they can't feel your symptoms.
Finally, a question I always ask people is "is it getting better?" if the answer to this is "yes", then you almost certainly have not a lot to worry about. However, obviously if you have any doubts about it, get it checked out professionally.

Pitcairn

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 84
  • Karma: +3/-0
#26 Re: What kind of finger injury?
November 02, 2009, 11:06:11 pm
So just got back from klattercentret and my finger seemed fine.  ::)  I taped it with the H-taping method around the joint as I felt that it was more likely medial ligament than pulley damage.  It felt solid on most holds but obviously I took it easy.  On one problem it felt like it clicked and actually felt better afterwards and Im wondering if the problem was some sort of out of position tendon or ligament or something  :shrug:

Anyway it felt sooo good to climb.  :thumbsup:  Its only been 2 weeks but I was doing my nut.

Thanks for the advice, it definitely helped hear peoples opinions, and thanks to sausage for laying down some simple truths re swelling, pain and just getting on with it.


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal