[Pitcairn]

Symptoms: right hand ring finger pain between the bottom (hand-end) and middle joints when i squeeze my finger at the sides and top-bottom.  It feel like its bruised from bashing it on something but that didnt happen, and theres no bruising or swelling.  Theres no pain at the actual joints themselves or on pulleys, and no pain when the finger is stretched sideways, up, or down.  It feels sore the day after climbing and I feel it (but without really being painful) when I climb, especially when crimping and on open handed crimps.

Ive checked the threads and climbing injuries websites but it doesnt fit anything described.

Massive karma and appreciation to anyone who can help with the correct diagnosis. 

[slackline]

Massive karma and appreciation to anyone who can help with the correct diagnosis. 

That would be dished out to the doctor/physio you will end up seeing in person then.

[Pitcairn]

Thats helpful, thanks.

I was hoping someone may identify with my description and actually be able to help before I get to the step of going to see a physio.

[slackline]

Thats helpful, thanks.

I was hoping someone may identify with my description and actually be able to help before I get to the step of going to see a physio.

Well there are quite a few doctors and physio's here, and guess what they say when people seek diagnosis via the internet?

Thats right the same thing each and every time.

[Jaspersharpe]

Could be good old collateral ligament damage but I'm no doctor. Just sounds similar to what I did a while ago........

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8580.0.html

[Pitcairn]

Sure, I get the point.  But (as with everyone else) you just hope that someone might identify something specific to cut out a few steps.  It is a forum page about injuries after all...

In reply to Jasper, I dont have specific pain in one area like you describe - its more like general pain between the ring on your finger in the photo and the point you marked, and more when I squeeze the top-bottom of my finger rather than the sides. Puzzled. Thanks for your help anyway.

[slackline]

Sure, I get the point.  But (as with everyone else) you just hope that someone might identify something specific to cut out a few steps.  It is a forum page about injuries after all...

But you'd still have to go and see a doctor/physio anyway, so you're actually adding steps, and likely worrying yourself unnecessarily through the huge potential for miss-diagnosis!

[Pitcairn]

Sure, I get the point.  But (as with everyone else) you just hope that someone might identify something specific to cut out a few steps.  It is a forum page about injuries after all...

But you'd still have to go and see a doctor/physio anyway, so you're actually adding steps, and likely worrying yourself unnecessarily through the huge potential for miss-diagnosis!

I know.  Im just in denial and hoping for a miracle cure over the internet. I live in Stockholm and its taken me 2 years to bother visiting the doctor because you have to phone up and understand Swedish..   Ill ask around for a finger specialist.

[anoread]

yes, go and see a doctor.

It does sound a lot like pain I used to suffer from. I assumed it was some serious damage and rested / iced for a month or so but it just re-occurred.  It turned out to be tightness in the fore-arm / shoulder area, presumably causing my ligament to overbear on something it shouldn't. 30 minutes of deep tissue massage from a physio and I was pain free.
Press down with the finger (straight) on your left elbow and feel your right forearm with your thumb. If the acting muscle feels like a guitar string then that might well be your problem. I've never managed to correct it once it happens without seeing someone but I can prevent it now using stretching and massage.

Anyway, go and see a doctor

[TobyD]

Agree with Jasper, it sounds most like a mild collateral ligament sprain. Usually caused by a twisting force with fingers locked onto a positive edge or pocket.

But go and see a specialist! Fingers are tricky, even when you can look at them.

[GCW]

Well there are quite a few doctors and physio's here, and guess what they say when people seek diagnosis via the internet?

Thats right the same thing each and every time.

Do I even need to say anything? 


It sounds like a chronic strain of something, more likely than not flexor unit or collateral.  My tedious advice stands I'm afraid.

As an aside, if someone tells you a diagnosis over the net 9 times out of 10 they are either a dick or wrong.  Unless it was the Sossidge, he's always right.

[Pitcairn]

Cheers for all the responses, much appreciated.

[Lund]

Thats right the same thing each and every time.

Do I even need to say anything? 

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick and ask boring finger injury questions?    I won't do it again.

[slackline]

Thats right the same thing each and every time.

Do I even need to say anything? 

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick and ask boring finger injury questions?    I won't do it again.

Technically I quoted GCW, so you've nothing to worry about. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

[lagerstarfish]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

 

[lagerstarfish]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

 

lol

[slackline]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

 

[fiveknuckle21]

Could be good old collateral ligament damage but I'm no doctor. Just sounds similar to what I did a while ago........

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8580.0.html

Fuckin' A, I had an identical problem to this a couple of months back and I was told much the same. No mono's for you!

[Lund]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

 

sweet christ.  What have I begun?

[Pitcairn]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

 

sweet christ.  What have I begun?

 

[slackline]

Will everyone stop quoting my question as an example of how to be a dick

 

 

sweet christ.  What have I begun?

 

[rothers]

I had something that sounds like this on my ring finger on each hand. Went away after about a month of taking it easy. Got it again in my middle finger though. I think its from overuse, but don't take my word for any of this and go see a doctor.

[The Sausage]

Hi,
Incidentally, what makes you say it's not a pulley? They're usually tender when you press on the pulpy bit between the joints on the front/back of your finger. And they normally hurt when you crimp.
You don't necessarily need to see a doctor/physio, it depends how bad it is. Have you tried taping it? Is it generally getting better or worse?

As long as it's not really swollen, and you're able to everyday things, I'd tape it, and start using a finger board to rehab it. use your symptoms as a guide to how much you should load it - a bit of achy pain is ok, but avoid anything that feels like a sharp pain. See if you can gradually increase the loads on it. You may get some soreness after, but if this subsides fairly quickly, it's probably just scar tissue breakdown.

Obviously if it gets worse, stop, and seek professional advice. But the last thing your GP needs is his surgery being blocked up with finger tweaks.

[Pitcairn]

Hi,
Incidentally, what makes you say it's not a pulley? They're usually tender when you press on the pulpy bit between the joints on the front/back of your finger. And they normally hurt when you crimp.
You don't necessarily need to see a doctor/physio, it depends how bad it is. Have you tried taping it? Is it generally getting better or worse?

As long as it's not really swollen, and you're able to everyday things, I'd tape it, and start using a finger board to rehab it. use your symptoms as a guide to how much you should load it - a bit of achy pain is ok, but avoid anything that feels like a sharp pain. See if you can gradually increase the loads on it. You may get some soreness after, but if this subsides fairly quickly, it's probably just scar tissue breakdown.

Obviously if it gets worse, stop, and seek professional advice. But the last thing your GP needs is his surgery being blocked up with finger tweaks.

I have tried climbing with tape and it seemed to make it worse if anything by putting pressure on the top of the finger.  In general though its getting better - I feel no pain at all when I squeeze it and do everyday things.  I think Ill try to climb tonight with tape and see how it feels - its been a week since i last climbed and Im going crazy already.  I have an appointment with a guy in Stockholm but friends have told me he has a tendency to prescribe cortosone and not do much else so Im not too keen.  I do have a friend who is a physio and climber so Im trying to get an appointment with him.

[The Sausage]

The thing with fingers is this - they are basically very static structures, biomechanically. You load them, and they either take the load, or something breaks (it may only be a few fibres), hence injury. Similarly, your options in terms of treatment are either a) surgery, or b) avoiding exacerbating the injury and gradually increase the loads placed on it while it repairs itself to minimise scar tissue build up and ensure good alignment of the fibres as it heals.
In your case, you don't need surgery. Which leaves you with option b). As I put in my previous post, the rate at which you increase the load is very subjective, and is based on symptom response. If you aren't in denial about it hurting when it hurts, and if you are patient and systematic, you should be able to manage this yourself. In fact, nobody else can really manage it for you, they can't feel your symptoms.
Finally, a question I always ask people is "is it getting better?" if the answer to this is "yes", then you almost certainly have not a lot to worry about. However, obviously if you have any doubts about it, get it checked out professionally.

[Pitcairn]

So just got back from klattercentret and my finger seemed fine.    I taped it with the H-taping method around the joint as I felt that it was more likely medial ligament than pulley damage.  It felt solid on most holds but obviously I took it easy.  On one problem it felt like it clicked and actually felt better afterwards and Im wondering if the problem was some sort of out of position tendon or ligament or something 

Anyway it felt sooo good to climb.    Its only been 2 weeks but I was doing my nut.

Thanks for the advice, it definitely helped hear peoples opinions, and thanks to sausage for laying down some simple truths re swelling, pain and just getting on with it.