[rlovatt]

id like to progress to one arm dead hangs. I can hang the smallest crimps on a mood board, but a one hander even on a small campus rung seems miles away. Any tips on how to progress to this.

[Scraggadoo]

Reduce the number of fingers on the hold on one hand while the other is still crimping fully?

[Probes]

You need one of these instead 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Crusher-Fingerboard-Climbing-Hold-Training-Board_W0QQitemZ290356958897QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering?hash=item439a9f96b1

[dobbin]

No you dont. Dont buy one of those, it looks log. Buy one of these : http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/2000.htm

Counter weights are your friend on the path to one armed greatness

[chillax]

You need one of these instead 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Crusher-Fingerboard-Climbing-Hold-Training-Board_W0QQitemZ290356958897QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering?hash=item439a9f96b1

That thing looks like someone had a seizure while holding a router and a block of wood....

[John Gillott]

If I'm reading you right it sounds like you need to strengthen your arms and shoulders so that your fingers become the weakest link when attempting a one arm hang on a finger edge. One arm lockoffs on a bar maybe to build up the arm strength?

[Probes]

You need one of these instead 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Crusher-Fingerboard-Climbing-Hold-Training-Board_W0QQitemZ290356958897QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering?hash=item439a9f96b1

That thing looks like someone had a seizure while holding a router and a block of wood....

   lol very good

[ds]

You need one of these instead 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Crusher-Fingerboard-Climbing-Hold-Training-Board_W0QQitemZ290356958897QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering?hash=item439a9f96b1

Plus it will be well sandy 

What is The Crusher Fingerboard made from:

The Crusher Fingerboard is constructed from Beach

[Monolith]

I've had similar problems rlovatt. I can hang 3mm crimps for a decent period which to be fair is punching above my weight. I've been gifted with good finger genetics but poor muscle mass. Definitely work the arms and the counter weights and you'll be sorted my man.

[sjw]

I put in a pulley system do to exactly this and it is working well for me. I just reduce the weight on the pulley when the session becomes comfortable. Cheapo £2.50 pulley from B&Q, some accessory cord and a plastic handle from one of my dumbbells. BOSH.

[rodma]

I can hang 3mm crimps for a decent period which to be fair is punching above my weight. I've been gifted with good finger genetics but poor muscle mass. Definitely work the arms and the counter weights and you'll be sorted my man.

Is this one-handed?

either way fucking impressive right enough

[rlovatt]

my arm strength is int too bad, i can to a one arm pull on a bar on a good day.

the pully system as any one got a link to a pic so i can see exactly how this works

thanks

[John Gillott]

In that case just find a big enough edge such that you can hang it one handed for say 3 or 4 seconds going to failure? Once you can do 8 seconds find a smaller hold you can do 3 or 4 seconds on, then keep on cycling through this process?