[nick p]

My first post on UKB...and its about injury 

the first (PIP) joint on my RH middle is stiff and has lost almost all motion.  Can climb OK on it (was OK for a week in Font last week) except for crimping.  When I crimp the joint won't really hyperextend and I get pain through the joint.  Seen a couple of physios, who are both of the opinion that I may have a bone growth or spur/ arthritis and there is little more they can do. I'm 36 and have climbed for 20 years.

Next step is Xray/MRI inside and seeing a specialist - surgery to shave the bone may be an option. Thats where I seek the wisdom of the UKB collective.  Can anyone recommend a hand specialist/surgeon who has specific experience of climbers' injuries?  don't mind where in the country they are (or even abroad).  Previous visits to "specialists" for other injuries have usually been along the lines of "oooh we've never seen climbing injuries before"  or " well you can move your hand live a normal life so why are you here?"

Any advice most gratefully received

Nick

[The Sausage]

Hi Nick,
Firstly, I assume you're actually talking about the DIP (distal interphalangeal joint), as that's the one that hyperextends when you crimp.
Did the physios do a proper assessment or just have a quick look and decide there was nothing they could do?
When you say it doesn't move, is that when you try to move it itself, or when you use your other hand to move it?
Where do you live?
Joe

[nick p]

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the reply.

I may have my DIP and PIP the wrong way around.  Its the first joint.

Yes the physios have had a good look at it (two different people 9 months apart and I respect the opinion of the latter) and both gave it a full manipulative workout for 30-40 mins.  Of course they may be wrong!  Both saying joint has lost motion and the area feels like there has been a thickening around it. 

It will move on its on and with the other hand, but it has almost no movement if I try to push it backwards (mimic a crimp).  It also feels "clicky" and if I turn both palms upwards and contract my fingers so that tips touch the top of the palm, it won't quite touch the palm, wheras other fingers will.

I'm based in London...and thus end up spending most of my time pulling on plastic

N

[nick p]

Forgot to add that it rarely gives me any trouble with an open handed grip