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Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question (Read 9430 times)

rodma

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Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 08:46:02 am
I have been campusing and Beastmakering with quite a light weight belt on (3Kg) and decided that I ought to start bouldering whilst wearing it as well (I used to do do routes with a heavier one years ago cos I saw Malc doing it).

I had forgotten how much it affects certain moves, like rock-overs are a little easier, as is any dynamic move (within reason) that involves swinging your hips into the wall, as the extra ballast seems to really help. Needless to say almost every basic move becomes harder.

What's peoples opinion on the benefits of bouldering with belt v the downside of potentially altering technique etc?

Adam Lincoln

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#1 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 08:48:20 am
I have just got a weight vest, which is adjustable. I have been using it on the beastmaker and for weighted pull ups so far. It certainly intensifies a workout. Not used it bouldering yet, but will start doing in a while.

Tim Broughtonshaw

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#2 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 08:59:43 am
I have just got a weight vest, which is adjustable.

Where did you get it from adam?

Cheers
Tim

dobbin

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#3 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 09:03:25 am
I had forgotten how much it affects certain moves, like rock-overs are a little easier, as is any dynamic move (within reason) that involves swinging your hips into the wall, as the extra ballast seems to really help. Needless to say almost every basic move becomes harder.

What's peoples opinion on the benefits of bouldering with belt v the downside of potentially altering technique etc?

This is a very good point. Whilst I agree that others who have used them seem to have produced results perhaps as result of wearing them, I've always felt the necessary change in style required to move with one on to be prohibitive. Funnilly enough, I was just chatting about weight belts with someone at the wall last night and they recommended warming up normally, then doing half an hour with the weight belt on on big locky problems with slightly bigger holds, and then taking it off and climbing normally.

Personally, I've never really worked with one, and worry that using small holds with a weight belt on (dynamically - i.e. climbing on a board as opposed to fingerboarding) is a recipe for disaster. Notice that Patxi is working out on bigger holds, wearing a weight vest but also doing loads of moves.

travs

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#4 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 09:08:43 am
I used to use a weight belt a lot when training properly. The way I used it was to increase resistance and power endurance. I would normally have an 8 week cycle which consisted as follows:

1. Design a 40 move circuit with feet anywhere and get to a point where this could be repeated 5 times on a 10 minute separation between start times, this should take about 2 weeks otherwise the circuit is too easy.
2. Put the weight belt on and repeat the process over 2 weeks.
3. Take the weight belt off and move to feet follow hands on circuit and repeat process.
4. Put the belt back on and repeat the process.

I would then change the circuit and go back to step 1 and repeat again. I would normally do this over the summer with the intention of build up resistance for the winter competition circuit as its a very long process.

rodma

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#5 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 10:56:12 am
Some good points there

I've recently been doing a circuit of hardish problems (some very crimpy) but can now manage them every session, which is why I've started wearing the belt. I'm trying to teach my fingers a lesson in crimping pre-hueco.

Good point about big locky moves on jugs, I certainly feel the difference most in that situation (cos my locking ability is crap)

tobym

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#6 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 03:14:07 pm
I'm already over 16 stone  :oops:, don't need extra weight, just less pies.

Adam Lincoln

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#7 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 22, 2009, 10:50:49 pm
I have just got a weight vest, which is adjustable.

Where did you get it from adam?

Cheers
Tim

From this guy. He has a few. Also has a 20kg version. Though i can add weight to mine if i find some bags of weight that fit. They are on offer at moment too.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weighted-Jacket-Adjustable-9-1KG-weight-training-vest_W0QQitemZ120480945343QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Strength_Training?hash=item1c0d3954bf

robertostallioni

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#8 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 23, 2009, 02:41:23 pm
Drew and I have the same one, but have only used it for exercises/routes, no boulderage. It is, indeed, bo.

Adam Lincoln

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#9 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 23, 2009, 03:57:05 pm
Drew and I have the same one, but have only used it for exercises/routes, no boulderage. It is, indeed, bo.

Must be good then  ;)
Plus you feel like your in the FBI when you wear it. Won't matter if you get shot wearing it!  :lol:

Did you guys go for 9kg or 20kg?

tobym

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#10 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 23, 2009, 05:05:05 pm
looks like the one Patxi trains with in the Progression vid, so must be reet bo.

robertostallioni

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#11 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 23, 2009, 10:01:40 pm
Drew and I have the same one

Did you guys go for 9kg or 20kg?

9kg, 20 seemed ludicrous(and expensive). Vest is good for assisted exercises where you can maximise(partner pushes down for extra weight) and minimise(partner pulls vest) resistance during failure sets.

For example, we have used the vest for weighted pressups, whereby the partner adds additional weight(by pressing between shoulderblades) so the Athlete(tm) can only just knock one out, then adds weight on the neg for the same purpose, repeating until the athlete(tm) requires weight to be removed on the ups/downs whereby the partner may pull the vest up to maintain the maximum effort. Cannot really do this with a belt.

rodma

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#12 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 24, 2009, 07:16:06 pm
I've seen one guy bouldering in one of these vests down the wall, which looked to be a real hinderance.

At home we've done weighted pull-ups with an inherited diving belt (nice lead weights) and then progressed to tying discs around my waist sothey hang between the legs. Never really considered buying a weight-vest, but it would have to be more comfortable than having my abdomen crusheddjfrfdrfdrfgrdfdrfrgdfgrtgtffgrd

Eddies

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#13 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 24, 2009, 08:17:01 pm
What sort of weight/reps do we do when performing weighted pull-ups?
Im currently doing 3 sets of 6reps with 20Kg (but tends to go 7-6-5!) 3 nights a week

shark

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#14 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 24, 2009, 11:17:59 pm
Pete Chadwick tells me he has been getting good results doing fingertip hangs/pullups holding a diumbell between his feet - good for core as well. An option to consider before getting a weight vest if you have a set of weights already.

dobbin

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#15 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 26, 2009, 01:18:13 pm
I heard that Scott Maclellan character cycles underneath a handy tree branch in Endcliffe park, then does pull ups with the bike still clipped to him. Another option worthy of consideration if you have a pushbike with clipless pedals rather than buying a weight vest.

You wont have seen him though as this takes place at 0400am.

Jaspersharpe

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#16 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 26, 2009, 04:44:53 pm
Bullshit.

tobym

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#17 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 26, 2009, 09:41:24 pm
Bullshit.

how do you know, Jasper?
You wont have seen him though as this takes place at 0400am.
:P

rodma

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#18 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
October 27, 2009, 08:41:50 am
I had my first normal feeling weight-belt session on saturday.

I'm prob a little bit thick not to think of this sooner, but what made the biggest difference was just having slightly longer rests between problems and then they felt almost the same as they wo0uld without the belt.

Or maybe just a low low grav day

rodma

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#19 Re: Weight-Belted-Bouldering Question
November 02, 2009, 01:04:44 pm
OK

I had my first non-weight belt session at the 'fun' comp on friday night.

The lack of belt definately made me feel really light and didn't mess too badly with technique. It made the biggest difference cutting loose on shit (and i mean dog-turd  ;)) holds on the 45 as the pendulum swing felt massively reduced, compared with cutting loose with the belt on.

I reckon I'll stick with it for a couple of months, see if it can help my campusing too.

 

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