[tomtom]

Yeah, but you can get weight on your feet irrespective of whether you're wearing a good-fitting, knackered old pair of shoes or the newest brand spanking new [insert your preference of climbing shoe here].

But if having swanky grippy boots enables you to keep your toe on that nubbin/edge or to remain on that smear - then you can put your weight on it, instead of your legs flailing/flapping around...

[slackline]

Yeah, but you can get weight on your feet irrespective of whether you're wearing a good-fitting, knackered old pair of shoes or the newest brand spanking new [insert your preference of climbing shoe here].

But if having swanky grippy boots enables you to keep your toe on that nubbin/edge or to remain on that smear - then you can put your weight on it, instead of your legs flailing/flapping around...

Oh yes, but you tend not to use such small nubbin's/edge's on font 5's (which is probably where Richie was coming from).

[Johnny Brown]

The difference being what percentage, and with what trust. Either old or new might be applicable depending on the route.

[galpinos]

Oh yes, but you tend not to use such small nubbin's/edge's on font 5's (which is probably where Richie was coming from).

Really? If you're in Font, you derfinately do!

[SA Chris]

I know nothing about training either, but I do know that when I am training on a steep board, a pair of well fitted shoes are better on marginal footholds that crap worn shoes, so I get a good body workout as you can then work body tension, wheras if the shoes were a bad fit I would end up having to do pullups and pating feet on better holds. My opinion anyway.

(is this thread ready for the logpile yet?)

[slackline]

Oh yes, but you tend not to use such small nubbin's/edge's on font 5's (which is probably where Richie was coming from).

Really? If you're in Font, you derfinately do!

Ssssh! You're supposed to be encouraging you're missus not putting her off!

[BenF]

Your shoes will not be holding you back at all if you are working from font 5/+ up till about font 7c or above

Which is why you have a whole plethora of different shoes, each carefully selected for different uses.  Remember when you failed on Idwal Arete because you were wearing radical down toed shoes that couldn't smear?  You didn't say that any shoe would have got you up that problem did you? No, you moaned to fuch about having the wrong shoes.  And anyway, since when have you used your feet in any kind of useful fashion?

[Jim]

I know nothing about training either, but I do know that when I am training on a steep board, a pair of well fitted shoes are better on marginal footholds that crap worn shoes, so I get a good body workout as you can then work body tension, wheras if the shoes were a bad fit I would end up having to do pullups and pating feet on better holds. My opinion anyway.

(is this thread ready for the logpile yet?)

equally argure the other side, ie that you have to put even more pressure through your feet so giving your body an even better work out, either that or your just climbing on jugs and need to use worse grips 

[Richie Crouch]

Which is why you have a whole plethora of different shoes, each carefully selected for different uses.  Remember when you failed on Idwal Arete because you were wearing radical down toed shoes that couldn't smear?  You didn't say that any shoe would have got you up that problem did you? No, you moaned to fuch about having the wrong shoes.  And anyway, since when have you used your feet in any kind of useful fashion?

 

Although I reckon it would go now with any shoes after going back to it and walking up it 

I guess I was thinking mainly of the cave where I spend 75% of my outdoor climbing time as Jim sugested 

[SA Chris]

equally argure the other side, ie that you have to put even more pressure through your feet so giving your body an even better work out, either that or your just climbing on jugs and need to use worse grips 

So to get the most benefit out of a steep board, you reckon wellies are best. And no I don't train on jugs, well they aren't jugs to me anyway!