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Trackside, Curbar (Read 14337 times)

nai

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#25 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 02, 2009, 01:46:17 pm
Beta-wise, I think I almost put the sole of my heel where the heel is in the pic, toe pointing totall downwards. I made my knee hurty.

That's what I remember doing too.  Met a guy trying it the other week, he was struggling like mad, nowhere near doing it.  Suggested he try this and he got it next go.


tommytwotone

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#26 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 02, 2009, 05:32:01 pm
I tend to start with the heel where it is in the photo to pull myself in / up, then as I'm rocking over rotate anti-clockwise until the toe's almost pointing directly at the ground - by that point you can pretty much sit on your hip, take both hands off and grab the top.

...or you could remove all the style and technique and just lank it if you're tall.


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#27 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 02, 2009, 07:04:36 pm
I'll have you know that LANK is the most advanced of all bouldering techniques. 
Any fool can rock over, but very few have the ability to LANK it.

tallsop

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#28 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 22, 2009, 04:20:14 pm
LANK it.  :lol:

Bloody Hell!!! Thats the most impressive bit of lankin ive ever seen!! And im guilty of many lanky acts myself bein 6ft5!

I did it the normal heel hook way, i found that joggin ur left hand up to the poorer, but higher crimp helped to shift weight over onto left heel, so you can sit on ur heel and start to reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaccccchhhhhh............

PATRuL

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#29 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 25, 2009, 01:44:04 am
all the hardest problems can be cracked with a good run and jump, especially on those grit pebbles.
Personally i've seen squirrels do harder routes.

Houdini

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#30 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 25, 2009, 08:11:13 am
Exactly;

Aunt Maud's guide dog would flash this.

Jim

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#31 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 25, 2009, 01:02:44 pm
I've seen a squirrel do an E6 in reverse

Norton Sharley

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#32 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 25, 2009, 04:20:34 pm
I am a squirrel.  At least I might be in the eyes of patrUL

lagerstarfish

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#33 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 25, 2009, 09:20:03 pm
Quote from: Isaak Newton
All the hardest problems can be reversed easily, without using any of the holds, by man and squirrel alike.


Wipey Why

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#34 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 27, 2009, 09:01:07 am
Tried this again on Sunday. Still cannot reach the top with the heel in the crack.

Being of the short variety (5'6) I am unable to lank it like the rest of you seem to.

I am rocking over the heel to the point where I think my hip is going to get seriously damaged and still just an inch or so off the top. Very frustrating.

Norton Sharley

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#35 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 30, 2009, 03:28:47 pm
Being of a similar short variety I suggest that once you've got the heel in the 'crack' push reet hard down on your left toe, and some more, gurn like you're on speed, wait for the point of balance and then casually reach for the top.  If you're in balance you can take the shit break before the top to settle yourself and go again.  Don't look up for the top, look down to increase your reach.  Bloody desperate.

Word.

SA Chris

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#36 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 30, 2009, 04:02:14 pm
I've seen a squirrel do an E6 in reverse

I have too, after I punted it off the top of one. Sadly it didn't live.

Drew

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#37 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 30, 2009, 05:00:30 pm
I so nearly Puntered you for that, but I laughed so much I'm gonna have to Wad you!

Bubba

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#38 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 30, 2009, 05:42:06 pm
I have too, after I punted it off the top of one. Sadly it didn't live.
I'd be worried about a visit from a homicidal Magpie after that sort of comment.

SA Chris

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#39 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 30, 2009, 05:44:09 pm
I would never do such a thing in real life.


Squirrel are too small to punt effectively. A good placekick however...

Houdini

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#40 Re: Trackside, Curbar
October 31, 2009, 04:50:12 pm

Being of the short variety (5'6)

You are taller than me and I think this problem is piss & far from enigmatic.  Crivens!  We'll have a beta thread for Crescent Arete next  ::)

jowgli

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#41 Re: Trackside, Curbar
January 29, 2010, 09:12:17 pm
i was stumped by this problem for a little while too. I used the left heel in the crack technique but couldn't reach the top. The key for me was once getting my heel in, pointing my left toe as far down as possible. This brings you up over your left foot so that you can sit on it and casually reach the top. good luck...

 

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