Trackside, Curbar (Read 14335 times)

Derek Mild · September 30, 2009, 06:31:50 pm

Help!
I've been trying this problem on and off for 4 years and I still can't do it. I'm 6ft with 0 ape index and long legs. I can get my right into the sloper on the arete and even put my heel in the crack but I can't get the power to rock round and get the top. Any other methods?? I'm getting desperate

neil h · September 30, 2009, 06:34:52 pm

jump

thats how i did it

GCW · September 30, 2009, 06:41:13 pm

LANK it.

Jim · September 30, 2009, 06:50:39 pm

the key is to have your right foot smearing in the right place on the arete before putting your left heel in the crack.
There is an obvious scoop near the top of the arete, smear your right foot at the very bottom or preferably just under this, then put left heel in and when you initiate the rock over really puch off from your right foot and then a little bit more udging and your sat on your left heel and you can walk your left hand fingertips to the top and victory will be yours

neil h · September 30, 2009, 07:00:28 pm

Quote from: GCW on September 30, 2009, 06:41:13 pm

LANK it.

thats how i did it, but jumped

Drew · September 30, 2009, 07:01:39 pm

Quote from: Jim on September 30, 2009, 06:50:39 pm

the key is to have your right foot smearing in the right place on the arete before putting your left heel in the crack.
There is an obvious scoop near the top of the arete, smear your right foot at the very bottom or preferably just under this, then put left heel in and when you initiate the rock over really puch off from your right foot and then a little bit more udging and your sat on your left heel and you can walk your left hand fingertips to the top and victory will be yours

Agreed with the position of the right foot, but I do the top bit slightly differently. I get the heel into the base of the crack, and then I don't push off my right foot, I simply drop my weight onto my left heel, and my right foot stops doing anything. Then once I'm static, I just reach the top (I'm about 5' 11.75" with a 0 APE index, but with quite bendy hips).

Oh, and get that right foot on, after getting the low guppy, but before getting the high sloper. It keeps your weight to the left.

P.S. How tall are you both GCW, and Neil?

GCW · September 30, 2009, 07:08:25 pm

I'm 5'10", I'm just closer than you think.

nik at work · September 30, 2009, 07:11:14 pm

You're about as 5'10" as I am.

Jim · September 30, 2009, 07:12:54 pm

both neil and gareth are giants

GCW · September 30, 2009, 07:22:35 pm

Quote from: nik at work on September 30, 2009, 07:11:14 pm

You're about as 5'10" as I am.

Nik and I are both 4 or 5 inches off 5'10".

Just at opposite sides of that figure.

I have almost done it via Jim's sequence but it kills my left hip for the next couple of days.

rginns · September 30, 2009, 07:45:55 pm

Quote from: nik at work on September 30, 2009, 07:11:14 pm

You're about as 5'10" as I am.

cofe · September 30, 2009, 07:47:59 pm

I'm 5' 10" and lanked it the first time. Right at my limit though. Then I found the best way was to use a toe in the crack. Toe or heel, it all comes down to the right foot smear.

Jim · September 30, 2009, 08:44:07 pm

yes but you have an enormous span word

cofe · September 30, 2009, 08:46:45 pm

you shouldn't be looking. I felt dirty til i did it rocking over anyway. it's trackside for flip's sake.

Derek Mild · September 30, 2009, 09:19:54 pm

Thanks everyone, I'll get on it soon, I should be able to lank it, I noticed a slightly different foot position in the video, if not I'll keep on with the rockover and pay more attention to where my right foot goes 1st

tommytwotone · September 30, 2009, 10:19:33 pm

Apologies for the facebook photo, but annnnyyyway...the smear and heelhook in question:

Jim · October 01, 2009, 12:11:26 am

also your left hand in the crack, the index finger should go where the broken pebble is

Jaspersharpe · October 01, 2009, 08:53:48 am

It's one of those moves that feels desperate and unlikely until you suddenly get your weight rocked onto the heel properly and nonchalantly reach for the top. I too am 6 foot and have long legs and I've always done it the heel way. It's all about hip flexibility.

Fiend · October 01, 2009, 09:22:57 am

Quote from: cofe on September 30, 2009, 08:46:45 pm

you shouldn't be looking. I felt dirty til i did it rocking over anyway. it's trackside for flip's sake.

Exactly. Neil and GCW better get the tippex out

GCW · October 01, 2009, 05:49:12 pm

Sorry, hadn't realised it was an eliminate.

Derek Mild · October 01, 2009, 08:24:38 pm

Ok, so I went back today after work and got close with the heel but didn't ever quite manage to rock over properly onto it. Next time. I'm pretty pissed off with myself, I was close. Thanks for the tips everyone, Ill let you know how I get on

andy popp · October 02, 2009, 08:15:18 am

Lets face it, this problem is rubbish. Once was enough for me.

Johnny Brown · October 02, 2009, 08:22:11 am

Oof! No wonder you have to live in cheshire.

grimer · October 02, 2009, 01:31:24 pm

Yeah, I've never enjoyed doing it, but it is one you have to do.

Beta-wise, I think I almost put the sole of my heel where the heel is in the pic, toe pointing totall downwards. I made my knee hurty.

That's how i remember it felt anyway, although, to be honest, with my legs, and my eyes, i cabn seldom see as far as my feet.

dave · October 02, 2009, 01:35:20 pm

the heel way is a nice move but to me always feels a bit artificial what with your right hand only being about 8 inches from the top. the slap/lank way has some advantages, namely you're less likely to blow you knee out or fall awkwardly, its less conditioney, needs no spotting etc etc.

nai · October 02, 2009, 01:46:17 pm

Quote from: grimer on October 02, 2009, 01:31:24 pm

Beta-wise, I think I almost put the sole of my heel where the heel is in the pic, toe pointing totall downwards. I made my knee hurty.

That's what I remember doing too. Met a guy trying it the other week, he was struggling like mad, nowhere near doing it. Suggested he try this and he got it next go.

tommytwotone · October 02, 2009, 05:32:01 pm

I tend to start with the heel where it is in the photo to pull myself in / up, then as I'm rocking over rotate anti-clockwise until the toe's almost pointing directly at the ground - by that point you can pretty much sit on your hip, take both hands off and grab the top.

...or you could remove all the style and technique and just lank it if you're tall.

GCW · October 02, 2009, 07:04:36 pm

I'll have you know that LANK is the most advanced of all bouldering techniques.
Any fool can rock over, but very few have the ability to LANK it.

tallsop · October 22, 2009, 04:20:14 pm

Quote from: GCW on September 30, 2009, 06:41:13 pm

LANK it.

Bloody Hell!!! Thats the most impressive bit of lankin ive ever seen!! And im guilty of many lanky acts myself bein 6ft5!

I did it the normal heel hook way, i found that joggin ur left hand up to the poorer, but higher crimp helped to shift weight over onto left heel, so you can sit on ur heel and start to reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaccccchhhhhh............

PATRuL · October 25, 2009, 01:44:04 am

all the hardest problems can be cracked with a good run and jump, especially on those grit pebbles.
Personally i've seen squirrels do harder routes.

Houdini · October 25, 2009, 08:11:13 am

Exactly;

Aunt Maud's guide dog would flash this.

Jim · October 25, 2009, 01:02:44 pm

I've seen a squirrel do an E6 in reverse

Norton Sharley · October 25, 2009, 04:20:34 pm

I am a squirrel. At least I might be in the eyes of patrUL

lagerstarfish · October 25, 2009, 09:20:03 pm

Quote from: Isaak Newton

All the hardest problems can be reversed easily, without using any of the holds, by man and squirrel alike.

Wipey Why · October 27, 2009, 09:01:07 am

Tried this again on Sunday. Still cannot reach the top with the heel in the crack.

Being of the short variety (5'6) I am unable to lank it like the rest of you seem to.

I am rocking over the heel to the point where I think my hip is going to get seriously damaged and still just an inch or so off the top. Very frustrating.

Norton Sharley · October 30, 2009, 03:28:47 pm

Being of a similar short variety I suggest that once you've got the heel in the 'crack' push reet hard down on your left toe, and some more, gurn like you're on speed, wait for the point of balance and then casually reach for the top. If you're in balance you can take the shit break before the top to settle yourself and go again. Don't look up for the top, look down to increase your reach. Bloody desperate.

Word.

SA Chris · October 30, 2009, 04:02:14 pm

Quote from: Jim on October 25, 2009, 01:02:44 pm

I've seen a squirrel do an E6 in reverse

I have too, after I punted it off the top of one. Sadly it didn't live.

Drew · October 30, 2009, 05:00:30 pm

I so nearly Puntered you for that, but I laughed so much I'm gonna have to Wad you!

Bubba · October 30, 2009, 05:42:06 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on October 30, 2009, 04:02:14 pm

I have too, after I punted it off the top of one. Sadly it didn't live.

I'd be worried about a visit from a homicidal Magpie after that sort of comment.

SA Chris · October 30, 2009, 05:44:09 pm

I would never do such a thing in real life.

Squirrel are too small to punt effectively. A good placekick however...

Houdini · October 31, 2009, 04:50:12 pm

Quote from: ypy on October 27, 2009, 09:01:07 am

Being of the short variety (5'6)

You are taller than me and I think this problem is piss & far from enigmatic. Crivens! We'll have a beta thread for Crescent Arete next

jowgli · January 29, 2010, 09:12:17 pm

i was stumped by this problem for a little while too. I used the left heel in the crack technique but couldn't reach the top. The key for me was once getting my heel in, pointing my left toe as far down as possible. This brings you up over your left foot so that you can sit on it and casually reach the top. good luck...

Trackside, Curbar (Read 14335 times)

dave