[clgladiator]

im sorry if this has been posted before, i did a search but couldnt really find anything. How does system training work?

The moon site seems to be recommending just holding a position at the bottom of the board then swapping, whereas horst seems to be saying that you should be climbing up the board on the same type holds. I'm looking at maybe starting some systems training on the motherboard at the works, so it would be cool if people could help me understand!

Chris

[robertostallioni]

Gresh's thinking

[Serpico]

Here's a video (in German) with the man who invented system training:
http://www.udini.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=150:systemtraining-fuer-kletterer&catid=51:besserklettern&Itemid=139

System Training is really just a catch-all term for any sort of training based around repetitive climbing movements.


...and ignore Horst - he's a cock.

[clgladiator]

right so the aim is too move up the board in a method that isolates one grip type / muscle group?

[Serpico]

right so the aim is too move up the board in a method that isolates one grip type / muscle group?

...or to hold positions as in the Moon vid to build static strength.
It's just a tool to work moves/grips that you want to improve by doing repetitions of them. You could split a session between working arm and core strength by doing big moves and lock-offs on big holds, and then working finger strength by either laddering or just alternating static hangs on small holds. If you're pressed for time you can combine the two by laddering on small holds, but this is a compromise as grip may fail before the arms are fatigued and vice-versa.
If in doubt just try laddering using four basic arm positions: straight pull down, side pulls, gastons, and undercuts.

[account_inactive]

Serpico's on the money here, basically a systematic way to check for weaknesses and imbalances.  Also the Beastmaker board at the Works/Depot is a larger extension of this with infinite moves etc etc.