[Sloper]

I've always thought that Font grades in the UK were well, generous to the point of dishonesty and no more so than in the peak.

I can't think of anything that is under graded and virtually everything that is sub 7a is just silly, I know it's a stuck record but does anyone think that strawberries is within a grade of l angle jean luc?

What would Science Friction get if it was at the plantation?

Well, come on let's be having you and your opinions.

Personally I've spent over a year climbing in the forest.

[tc]

A year being what? A whole calendar year living there or 52 one-week trips?

[Sloper]

Trips ranging from 3 days to 3 months.

Most of it climbing in the 5 & 6, though in the glory days a wee bit harder.

[tim palmer]

The basic things in the forest which i have done i think are soft compared to the uk.  The vert/slabs are hard compared to here i agree.  Cres arete isn't that much easier than marie rose (?bench mark 6a) so 5 i guess.

[tc]

I had a similar discussion with Neil H while I was in Fontainebleau over the last few weeks, actually. We were ruminating on the fact that plenty of people turn up in the Forest with a long cv of big numbers in the UK to their credit and a copy of the 7s + 8s guide clutched in their sweaty hands, only to get comprehensively spanked and depart without even a single old school 7a tick. Well, schadenfreude makes me larf, anyway 
I first bouldered at Bas Cuvier in 1977 and have been going to the Forest regularly (i.e. once or twice a year on average) ever since, which makes me a fucked up, opinionated old gipper and right about everything. So there.

[Sloper]

The basic things in the forest which i have done i think are soft compared to the uk.  The vert/slabs are hard compared to here i agree.  Cres arete isn't that much easier than marie rose (?bench mark 6a) so 5 i guess.

Tim, crescent arete is shed loads easier than Marie Rose, if you compare CA to the 12bis at 91.1 5+, or that big 5+ arete at l' elephant( can't remember the name), or the one at the back of Isatis on the red curcuit you'd find it impossible to justify CA at 5+.

Anyway, how many people have you seen fail on CA as opposed to Marie Rose?

[Stubbs]

Who are these mythical beasts that are wads in the UK but fail in Font?  If you are strong and completely technically dense there are plenty of problems to pick that don't require you to have Golden Feet to get by.

Font is way more conditions dependent than the grit, Prawn Marie Rose feels as piss as anything else in the best conditions, whereas CA feels about the same in a larger variety of conditions.  5+ vote for me.  Sloper you must just be a weak punter with good footwork.

[Sloper]

I'll take that as a compliment 

Anyway a quick bit of research

http://bleau.info/elephant/7843.html

Mrs Sloper stops play.

[tim palmer]

Who are these mythical beasts that are wads in the UK but fail in Font?  If you are strong and completely technically dense there are plenty of problems to pick that don't require you to have Golden Feet to get by.

Font is way more conditions dependent than the grit, Prawn Marie Rose feels as piss as anything else in the best conditions, whereas CA feels about the same in a larger variety of conditions.  5+ vote for me.  Sloper you must just be a weak punter with good footwork.

 

[tc]

I can't be arsed arguing 

[slackline]

I can't be arsed arguing 

You've not quite got the hang of the "internet" yet have you tc

welcome to the internet where people tend to disagree with each other.

[tc]

I'm only just getting the hang of the gramophone record and the wireless.

[neil h]

personally I don't think you can compare font to the grit, 2 different types of rock in 2 different climates

like anywere if its your local rocks you will climb well whatever the conditions.

I climbed fairly well when I lived in Sheffield, and always got spanked in font, now I climb well in font whatever the weather, and generally get spanked at every other venue in Europe.   

[neil h]

I'm only just getting the hang of the gramophone record and the wireless.

so your car made it home then 

[Sloper]

Indeed Neil, that's life it does take a while to get used to a new area.

As for the question who are the was who get spanked in Font?

Didn't Malc Smith reputedly fail on a 4+?

[neil h]

As for the question who are the was who get spanked in Font?

in eglish please

[Bonjoy]

Utter utter drivel!
I did start writing a comprehensive rebuttal, but after a line or two I was loosing the will to live. After line three, with a pencil up each nostril ready to headbutt the desk I decided to stop.
Crappity, crap, crapkins, in a napkin. That’ll have to do.

[nik at work]

I too have started to write a lengthy essay that disputes the "Peak is softly graded" stance.
However, whilst I didn't quite reach the point of sticking pencils up my nose, I did suffer a crisis of motivation and had to abandon the venture.
I am in agreement with the napkin to which Jon so eloquently refers.

[dave]

oh great, another sloper thread about how strawberries is piss, no doubt to be followed up about how early doors is easier than GW too. change the fucking record.

[slackline]

Bonjoy & Nik at Work : For the right price Sloper will write the essay for you 

[Bonjoy]

I am in agreement with the napkin to which Jon so eloquently refers.

Not surprising as I was blatantly plagiarising your turn of phrase. 

[BenF]

 

I've just joined the ranks of those who started typing out a reasoned reply and gave up.  Who cares about this really?  A grade is supposed to be a useful guide to the difficulty of the problem, that's all.  All I can be bothered to add really is...   if anything, most places outside of Font appear to have a more evenly graduated grading scale.  Lower grade problems in Font often appear to be harshly graded but above say 6c, the scale seems to even out a little and each progressive grade step feels more even than under 6c.  This will inevitably mean that when climbing in other areas, the lower grades may feel soft.  They are not soft, they are in line with the scale applied in that area.

Personally I've spent over a year not worrying about whether a grade is soft or hard.

[Jaspersharpe]

[neil h]

 


Its cause sloper has nowt better to do with his time

[rginns]

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