[i.munro]

I'm just recovering from a second bout of tendonitis ( golfers elbow) last summer it was the other arm 

Anyway I now seem to actually be able to put some effort in at the wall
perhaps 95%  on everything aprt from incuts.

However the tendon attachment still feels quite tender if prodded & I think this wasn't the case last time. Anybody else had tendonitis & remember this & did they rest more or carry on climbing or what?

 

[duncan]

I don't think local tenderness matters very much, especially when you've had a problem for some time or a previous related problem.  The mechanism might be central sensitization. link - a bit technical I'm afraid.

From experience personally, and with patients, a little discomfort during rehabilitation is no bad thing with tendon problems as long as it is short-lived.  Get the ice on after if you're not sure.  Feeling sore the following day usually means you've overdone things.

Good luck.

[i.munro]

Thanks for the link. Perhaps that is what's been happening.
What has been worrying me is tenderness ( to any contact) around the tendon insertion & the fact that it didn't seem to be related to climbing in any way (ie just as bad during a session 5 mins after  or a week later) .

I finally seem to be getting some improvement though.
I guess that means we've seen the last of the sun for this year 

[duncan]

What has been worrying me is ... the fact that it didn't seem to be related to climbing in any way (ie just as bad during a session 5 mins after  or a week later) .

So climbing is not making it any worse </glass half-full>.

Sounds like you could try gradually increasing the volume and then intensity.

[i.munro]

Sounds like you could try gradually increasing the volume and then intensity.

Thanks ,that's what I have been doing & the soreness seem to be finally going.
I was just worried that I might be overdoing. I really  don't want this back again next summer. I have too few summers left to waste any more

[mrjonathanr]

Sometimes discomfort is a bit inexplicable. If it deteriorates, you need to scale down/do rehab exercises. I'm sure you're familiar with this: http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf.
Discomfort can just be background or fade away all on its own. I wouldn't worry too much if it isn't of a level to inhibit your climbing.