Miles is a total beast. That looks stunning. Effort.
QuoteMiles is a total beast. That looks stunning. Effort. I’m not sure that was said to make a point Nik, but it makes one all the same. I guess there’s not much more to say when someone does something so far out of most people's boxes and how interesting is a thread consisting of variations on the “Effort beast” theme? I am duly chastened.
E fucking 9. What next? On any other scale this would be E11. Sam was trying it after App w Death, reckoned it was a totally different proposition. Harder moves, worse protection, more committing = not the same grade.
I agree with JB also.The wall right of MaDMAn is Cheltenham Gold Cup E4(!!!) 6c. Looks like a mighty big sandbag too.
Can't believe a thread about the font grade of Cresent Arete receives more attention than news of a truly amazing first ascent of a world class LGP. What does that say about UKB or the state of climbers in this country?
There will be some video footage to follow shortly - but the quality isn't very good so don't let people get too overly excited. The cameras aren't that great, and it was getting pretty dark by the time he went for it, and there was a slight issue with the tape. Unfortunately there are no photos (but Miles was keen to try and go back to get some somehow) He took a fall (climbed to the crux move to the pebble but bottled it so reversed a move or two before dropping off onto the gear) on his first effort - which I think he needed to clear his head, to confirm that the right hand gear was good. I don't think you saw that gear in the 'best light', but collectively it is actually good, and he was confident in it, which makes a fair difference to the seriousness of the route. By the way, judging by how difficult it was to get your ball-nut out, I think that may have taken a fair bit of the force :-) When Miles first tried the line, he thought it might not be possible, but after working out a really devious and very unlikely sequence (if Bransby or Sam had found this sequence then it's possible that they might have done it before him) earlier this year he realised that it was on, especially when coupled with the right hand gear being better than initially expected, and therefore protecting the really hard bit. He was confident of not falling off on the more serious upper moves. This is why he has tentatively given it E9. Without the right hand gear it would definitely be worthy of a loftier grade. But you are pretty well protected actually for the last really hard move. Then you just have to do an unprotected couple of English 6b moves in a death situation. I didn't try these moves enough to know whether they felt like easy 6b or 6b going on 6c, but I think there lies your grade of E9 or E10.
Is it me or is every new route downgraded these days?!
Tis better to undergrade in this day and age as you look less silly than when someone finds an easier sequence (or just finds it easier).